Project '66 Engine Compartment Detailing

10 While some six-cylinder items work with a V-8 swap, we opted to replace all the brake lines--not only from a safety standpoint but also because we plan to use Master Power Brakes' power drum brake conversion kit. The steering column seal (mounted from inside) is also visible here.

11 Our brake lines were ordered in stainless steel for long-lasting looks, but the mounting clips are constructed from mild steel. A quick shot of high-temp clear will keep the mounting clips and the hardware looking good for quite some time.

12 At this point, all of our inner fender and firewall items are mounted (except for the washer system), and we can now install our wire harness retainers and the new V-8 wiring harnesses.

13 The wire harness retainers are pushed into the holes on the inner fenders to retain the harnesses. The use of a nut driver or a small 1/4-inch drive socket will allow you to easily push the retainers into the holes in the inner fenders. Carefully route the harnesses to their proper locations and close the retainers around the wiring to hold it in place.

14 The same thing is performed on the right inner fender for the wiring harness to the starter solenoid. Remember to leave room in the retainers for the starter cable. All of the eyelet connections will attach to the battery side of the solenoid as shown here.

15 The use of the reproduction Autolite battery top allows the use of most maintenance-free group 24F batteries in vintage Mustangs. We found our battery at Pep Boys for less than $40 (make sure you bring the top with you to test-fit the battery before you purchase it). Notice how close the positive terminal is to the inner fender. It's a good thing we installed the rubber terminal shield.

16 Our windshield washer system can now be installed once the wiring harnesses are in place. Mount the washer bag bracket to the inner fender, then hang the bag in place. Our '66 has two speed wipers with the two-wire washer pump, so make sure you order the correct one. Mount the pump with the correct hardware, then assemble the washer hose kit.

17 The washer nozzles differ between the '65 and the '66-'68 Mustangs, so make sure you order the correct nozzles for your restoration. Carefully slide the washer nozzles in place and secure them with the correct Phillips head screws.

18 The washer nozzles have a small amount of butyl sealer (such as 3M(R) Strip Caulk) applied to the opening to seal the cowl. Don't overdo the application of sealer; a small amount to cover the holes is all you'll need.