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1966 Ford Mustang - Project '66 - Audio UpgradesOur Hardtop Project Receives Cruising Tunes Capability Via Custom Auto Sound From the November, 2001 issue of Mustang Monthly By Mark Houlahan Photography by Mark Houlahan
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Our USA6 arrived along with... Our USA6 arrived along with the Custom Autosound CD changer and a full complement of speakers to convert our hardtop into a rolling sound stage. Except for a few solderless terminals and some speaker wire, we were ready to crank up the tunes. Inset: The Custom Autosound 6x9 speaker grilles look the vintage part and stay low-key--just as we wanted. After recently assembling Project '66's dash, we were left with a nice hole in the center of it where the stock AM radio formerly resided. We wanted the stock look, but couldn't bear the thought of listening to AM stations. I mean, I'm only 32! That's way too young to start listening to AM talk radio. So we needed some quality audio relief for cruising, car shows, and those occasional trips to work. Our first thought was Custom Autosound Manufacturing, the unchallenged leader in vintage car audio. Throughout the years, we've worked with Carl Sprague and his band of audio experts to outfit several project cars, and we wanted to have the Custom Autosound quality in our Project '66 as well. Throughout the years, we've ordered many products from Custom Autosound's catalog. In fact, the popular USA1 and USA5 models have graced several of our projects, but we wanted to try something new. 1 We know it looks like spaghetti... 1 We know it looks like spaghetti right now, but these few wires aren't really that intimidating. Before mounting your stereo (which makes it harder to wire and circuit-test everything), prewire the stereo on the floor. Here we've begun to route our speaker wires and we've connected our antenna, which was previously installed. Our basic premise for the audio solution for our hardtop was a near-stock audio system look, but we wanted modern audio-sound quality, options, and power output. Our selection of the stereo, or head unit, was based on what we wanted to listen to. Since our cassette collection went the way of 45s, we wanted to listen to only CDs and FM broadcast signals. Though the new Secret Audio from Custom Autosound is a great idea, we wanted to completely conceal the full, modern audio from normal view (great for Concours cars), so we opted for the new USA6. This stereo has the great look of a vintage AM radio bezel and tuner and has a digital tuner face mounted behind it. At first glance (with the radio off), it looks just like an old AM radio! Besides modern features, such as separate base and treble controls, a fader, and more, the USA6 will control a Custom Autosound six-disc CD changer as well; problem solved. 2 You'll have to find several... 2 You'll have to find several connections in your dash for the stereo. This photo shows the radio illumination circuit. Connect it to the three-way plug near the headlight switch.
However, the speaker placement had us scratching our heads. Though Custom Autosound's kick-panel speakers are great, we wanted to maintain our stock-looking Deluxe interior kick panels with their carpet and stainless trims. Installing a dual-voice coil 4x10 speaker in the dash was our first thought for the front half of our speaker selection. We ultimately decided upon adding the optional eight-track stereo speakers and grilles to our door shells. We'd already cut holes for Deluxe interior courtesy lights, so what's another hole for speakers. At this point, our front speaker locations and mounting would look totally stock, but high-quality Custom Autosound speakers would be hidden behind the grilles. Upon looking at the package tray, the '66 hardtop had room for only one centrally located 6x9-inch speaker. We thought about a Custom Autosound dual-voice coil speaker for this location, but Custom Autosound's Mike Daughtery advised against this because we wouldn't have a clear stereo separation. If we could live with the nonstock look, Mike suggested a pair of Custom Autosound 6x9s with their vintage-looking grilles. We took Mike's advice and we're glad we did. The grilles have a certain vintage flair to them, they don't detract from the look of the car, and the audio system sounds impeccable! For a little more than $600, we have all the components to produce quality audio output in our Project '66 for years to come. Check out Custom Autosound's Web site or call to locate a dealer near you for more information on the USA6 and other Custom Autosound audio solutions.  3 Digitally tuned stereos...  3 Digitally tuned stereos require a memory circuit, or a voltage feed, at all times to retain station memory and other settings. You can attach this wire to the three-way plug on the right side of the dash-cluster opening. Alternately, you can connect it to your cigarette lighter feed if it's working.  4-A Don't make the same mistake...  4-A Don't make the same mistake we made and connect the CD-changer cable backwards. It can plug in both ways, but we started at the CD changer and worked our way forward, only to realize the plug wouldn't clear the heat sink on the back of the stereo. Install the CD-changer cable to the stereo first.  4-B Don't make the same mistake...  4-B Don't make the same mistake we made and connect the CD-changer cable backwards. It can plug in both ways, but we started at the CD changer and worked our way forward, only to realize the plug wouldn't clear the heat sink on the back of the stereo. Install the CD-changer cable to the stereo first.  5 The CD-changer cable can...  5 The CD-changer cable can then be routed to the rear of the car. In our installation, we concealed all the cabling as much as possible so it wouldn't detract from the stock look. The CD-changer cable is thick and won't route cleanly through the doorsill (where the rear speaker wires were routed) thus we taped it in place along the rocker where it won't get stepped on or punctured with a screw.  6 The Custom Autosound CD...  6 The Custom Autosound CD changer has numerous mounting configurations available for it via these screw holes and the multimounting plates. We opted to mount ours under the rear deck, but you can mount it anywhere you feel comfortable accessing it (or hiding it as the case may be).  7 Mounting the CD changer...  7 Mounting the CD changer in this manner makes for a secure attachment with the least amount of possibility for damage from anything being placed in the trunk or sliding around in the trunk. The installation requires only four small screw holes, which allow for easy removal for a major show where you wouldn't want the CD changer to result in deducted points.  8 The Custom Autosound 6x9...  8 The Custom Autosound 6x9 speakers were installed next. We installed them in the inboard stamped opening on either side of the factory single 6x9 opening in the center. Again, small mounting holes were drilled for securing the speakers, but no major cutting was involved. After 35-plus years, many hardtops already have 6x9 holes drilled, so someone may have saved you a step. Here you can see where the speaker and CD-changer wiring is tie-wrapped up out of view for a super-clean installation.  9 The speaker grilles show...  9 The speaker grilles show how the speaker assemblies are secured. The package tray is literally sandwiched between the speaker and the speaker grille. Tighten the mounting screws evenly to prevent distortion of the grille, yet allow for a snug speaker fit for optimum sound.  10 The door speakers are...  10 The door speakers are actually the most difficult to install and wire, but the looks and sound are worth it. Since our hardtop didn't originally have the Deluxe courtesy light or door speakers, the doorjamb and the door face was drilled to accept the reproduction wiring harness from Virginia Classic Mustang. A right-angle drill will work, or you can drill from within the door (bare shell) and from the opposite side of the cowl panel.  11 If you don't have a right-angle...  11 If you don't have a right-angle drill, you can drill from this opening in the cowl-side panel. Route the wiring through this opening and make the proper connections. The ground lead screwed to the cowl is for the courtesy light, while the pair of wires routed up are the speaker wires.  12 This little double-U-shaped...  12 This little double-U-shaped clip is how the factory routed the speaker and courtesy light wiring to prevent entanglement with the window regulator. Since they're not visible with the door panel on, any modern equivalent will accomplish the job. We found these at a hardware store in packs of 10 (you only need a few per side).  13 Here's a clip, as it should...  13 Here's a clip, as it should be installed. The narrow side grips the door skin and the larger U holds the wiring harness. Make sure there's no slack that will get caught in the window mechanism; route your wiring inside the door. Notice the speaker hole has been cut and the speaker leads are protuding.  14 Using the speaker grilles...  14 Using the speaker grilles and the hole template included with the grilles, estimate the mounting areas on the 4x6 door speakers and install the nut clips. We had to drill a few new holes in the ends of our speaker mounting plates so they would mount correctly, but that's because of the 4x6 speaker's universal mounting nature. The stock speakers are an odd size (if you can still find them) and don't have the sound quality of these 4x6 plate speakers, so they'll take a little extra work for better audio output.  15 Connect the 4X6 speaker...  15 Connect the 4X6 speaker to the door harness, but don't install the speakers yet. Leave them out so you can test the system.  16 Here's the best way to...  16 Here's the best way to connect the door speakers, which is similar to an '87-'93 Mustang speaker wiring. Simply tap the door speakers into the dash speaker wiring so they can share the signal (just like a late-model). The speaker wires at the top are from the 4x10 in the center of the dash, while the wiring at the bottom of the picture is from the stereo itself. The white speaker wire you see is from the door speakers (connected to the factory door harness under the dash), then tee'd into the dash speaker wiring (shown in my hand).  17 After testing the stereo...  17 After testing the stereo and making sure all connections are sound (no pun intended), you can install the door speakers. The speaker grilles aren't included but are standard Mustang items. We purchased ours from Virginia Classic Mustang when we ordered the door wiring. Lining up the speakers and the door grille is quite a chore and may require a helper, so be patient.  18 Last, mount the stereo...  18 Last, mount the stereo into the dash face. Barring the correct deep socket, you can carefully tighten the mounting nuts with an adjustable wrench. Don't let the stereo's weight be supported by only the shaft mounting nuts; install the stereo support strap as well. We didn't like running a self-tapping screw into our cowl (plus the wiper transmission would hit), so we fabricated the support strap to mount to the lower edge of the dash behind the ashtray and it worked perfectly.  19 Now for the final effect:...  19 Now for the final effect: Custom Autosound's reproduction radio knobs that mimic the look of the factory knob. Here you can clearly see the AM radio dial faceplate too. The sound quality is on par with any mid- to high-end factory system, and we're constantly amazed at how many stations the tuner can pick up. In all, this is a job well worth the afternoon in the garage.
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 | We take a glimpse inside the how, what, why, and where of restoring a vintage Mustang |
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