1966 Ford Mustang - Project '66 - How To: '65-'66 Power-Steering Conversion

11 The new V-8 idler arm attaches differently to the center link and to the idler-arm mounting bracket. This mounting difference requires a new (or good used) idler-arm mounting bracket. Don't tighten the lower castle nut until the car is aligned; otherwise, the idler arm may pull the steering in one direction or another instead of trailing at an "idle" going down the road.

12-a The pitman arm (the curved arm at the base of the steering gearbox) is specific to V-8s, so we had to find one at Metro Mustang. Once the pitman arm is slid into place, the retaining nut and lock washer can be secured.

12-b The rebuilt power-steering control valve and center-link assembly is then attached to the pitman arm and idler arm.

13 The power steering conversion requires different tie-rod ends; but, since our steering was completely shot, we ordered new inner and outer tie-rod ends and the proper adjusting sleeves for both sides from Mustangs Plus.

14-a The tie-rod assemblies attach to the center link and spindles with the provided castle nuts. Notice that none of our attaching points have cotter pins installed.

14-b We'll wait until our project is aligned and all of the castle nuts torqued properly before we secure them with cotter pins for safety. Just don't forget to install your cotter pins.

15 To mount the hydraulic slave cylinder, the slave-cylinder mounting bracket will have to be added to the left framerail. These crush-nut inserts (two required) will be installed first. Use a bolt and two washers as a bearing surface to install these into the frame. Ours went right in and collapsed evenly, but we've heard of some that had to be welded to the frame.

16 The cleaned and painted slave-cylinder mounting bracket is installed using correct AMK Products hardware from National Parts Depot. The AMK fasteners save time because the hardware is the correct length, strength, and design.

17 Our new Stainless Steel Brakes slave cylinder is prepared with a boot kit, new mounting bushings, and new pressure hoses. These small hoses often cause problems if they are installed crossed, causing the steering wheel to spin back and forth on its own. Remember: The hoses do not cross, but go straight from top port to top port and nestle together when tightened.

18 The slave cylinder is attached to the center link via a castle nut. This nut is not provided with the new slave cylinder, so you'll have to score one from Metro Mustang too.

19 Once the small hoses from the slave cylinder are routed and installed into their respective ports on the control valve, all that remains are the main pressure and return hoses between the pump and the valve itself. These hoses route in front of the control valve and under the inner tie-rod end as shown here. Ford used a special clamp to secure the hoses to the valve to prevent rubbing and vibration, but the clamp (as far as we know) isn't available. For daily drivers, a regular worm-drive hose clamp will work.

20 The last detailing touch is the reproduction power-steering hose-retaining bracket. This bracket attaches to the lower control-arm pivot bolt as shown here, and supports the hoses as they are routed to the power-steering pump mounted on the engine. The pump and pump bracket are not shown here, but you will see them when we finish our 289 and detail it in an upcoming issue.