Ford 289 Short-Block Buildup Part 2 - Project '66 Engine Build

Getting the 289 together for our project car has given us a much needed boost of enthusiasm. While you're reading this second part of the engine buildup in early 2004, due to editorial lead times we're tapping away at the keyboard in November. We've completed the drivetrain installation, and the car is almost complete. Barring any major setbacks, our project should be running by the end of 2003 and any bugs worked out in plenty of time for a debut at the big 40th Anniversary bash in Nashville.

In last month's first half of the buildup, we discussed building a strong foundation, and showed you the parts and assembly of the "short-block" package. After a few weeks of scheduling difficulties, we were able to get back to John Douglas' place and complete our buildup into a "long-block" that would be ready for the A&S Motorsports dyno. Our long-block buildup utilizes the CNC-modified cylinder-head castings from Power Heads, valvetrain components from Competition Cams, and an Extrude Honed factory 4V intake. Arriving just in time for our dyno session, we also used a show-ready Autolite 4100 from Pony Carburetors, modified to complement our engine specs, and an Autolite distributor restored by Mike Ulrey, which was fitted with a PerTronix Ignitor (from National Parts Depot) and a custom advance curve.

Take a look at our small-block beauty and tune in for our next Project '66 article in which we'll detail our 289 to make the Mustang Club of America nod in approval.

2 With the cam degreed in, it was time to install the reproduction timing cover from National Parts Depot and start sealing up our engine. The new timing cover was a perfect replacement for those original covers that had cracks or stripped mounting bolt holes. Be sure to get the correct mounting bolt kit when you order.	3 Rotating the engine, John proceeded with the oil-pan gasket preparation. After cleaning the block surface, he ran a bead of gasket adhesive along the pan rail to hold the cork-pan gasket in place. A small amount of silicone was applied around each bolt hole as well to prevent oil leaks through the bolt threads.	4 The pan gasket end seals are rubber and reside in the No. 5 main bearing cap and the bottom of the timing chain cover. A small flat-blade screwdriver helped in seating the end seals. More silicone was used where the cork-rail gasket meets the rubber end seals.
5 Our new oil pan from NPD fit like a glove with no alignment problems, though the prepainted blue finish was a bit darker than it should be. No worries, though; after mounting the pan with our AMK concours hardware, John will apply a fresh coat of Ford Corporate Blue.	6 John masked off the water pump and fuel-pump mounting flanges, as well as the front of the block casting, and applied a couple of light coats of paint. John felt it would be easier to paint these areas at this point than when the heads are in place.	7 Small-block Ford cylinder-head gaskets, regardless of the manufacturer, are marked with the word "FRONT" on one end. Be sure the gasket is positioned so the word FRONT is at the front of the block with the gasket in place. On one side, the word FRONT will face up, and on the other it will face down (unless both sides are stamped).