Choosing A Torque Converter
Here's a quick tour through a typical TCT converter. Beginning from left to right, there's the converter cover with the stator and sprag inside it, the turbine and turbine hub, and the front cover (lying face down). Above the converter assembly are the various bearing assemblies used in the converter. TCT uses sealed roller bearings, not sandwich-style, for its converter assemblies since they are more durable and can handle twice the load capacity.
The TCT 10-inch street and strip converter for our C4 comes ready to install with new mounting hardware. While most of the trick features are hidden inside the welded case, the anti-ballooning plate is welded around the hub of the converter cover on the exterior. This thick plate prevents the converter from "ballooning" by adding strength to the stamped cover.
We'll be honest: We're far from experts on torque converters. Sure, we know their basic operation principles (fluid in an impeller is spun and transferred to the turbine, multiplying torque in the process), but like most of you we had no idea what torque converter to run in our Dynamic Racing Transmission C4. We left it in the capable hands of the people who make them every day. With some basic knowledge of your engine specs, driving style, and so on, the crew at TCT can put together the right converter for your automatic Mustang. We ended up with TCT's 10-inch "street and strip" converter with a 3,000-rpm stall speed. Whether it's for simple cruising or something snappier, TCT can build just what you need. The photos show the inner workings of our 10-inch converter.
13 The dual-exhaust hanger kit includes everything to mount the exhaust under the car. Since our little hardtop was far from being a factory dual exhaust-equipped car, we have to mock up the exhaust and locate the muffler hangers so two holes can be drilled in the rear floor to insert the stud plate and secure the hangers to the underbody. Take your time and measure twice before drilling. | 
14 The rear tailpipe hangers are a three-piece affair. The L-shaped bracket is secured to the rear framerail with two carriage bolts (our framerails required an extra hole to be drilled). The U-shaped bracket containing the rubber isolator is secured to the bottom of the mounted L-bracket. The J-shaped bracket is secured to the tailpipe via a clamp (not shown), then is secured through the rubber isolator. | 
15 The tailpipes on most of Motive Industries' kits are long, so the owner can do whatever he or she wishes for tailpipes (GT valance, turn-downs, chrome tips, and so on). We ordered the factory-style non-GT turn-downs, which require only trimming the tailpipe length before being clamped into place. |
16 The completed exhaust system fits like a glove and looks every bit the correct part for our "dealer-installed dual exhaust" option. The turbo muffler option also adds a sweet, throaty sound to our little 289. | 
17 While we had the detailing paints out, we added a few touches to the underside of our hardtop. Using information from several sources, including Bob Perkins and an MCA Gold card judge or two, we put the right paint daubs, sprays, and stripes where applicable; again more for our own satisfaction than for the judge's. | 
18 Back on four tires, all that's left is to connect cooling hoses, power-steering hoses, add some fluids, and bleed the brakes. With our 289 previously dyno-tested and tuned, it's a matter of connecting the coil wiring and dropping in a battery to get our '66 to come to life at the first twist of the key. Man, what a beautiful sound that is! Now that she's running, we have only a few details left to close the book on this restoration. Keep an eye out for our remaining stories as we install the Classic Auto Air A/C system, restore a console for the interior, and maybe even add a Rally-Pac. |