1966 Ford Mustang - Project '66 - Restore A '65-'66 Console

16 The new courtesy light attaches with two screws (don't forget the ground lead). Unless your original light is in good shape and needs only a lens or new bulbs, it's best to buy the complete assembly, which gives you a new chrome housing, bulbs, wiring, and lens.

17 Our console's original wiring is in decent shape, but, since we had replaced everything else, we decided to add new wiring as well. The short console harness is secured under the console by a couple of C-clips. If they're missing, use an alternative solution since it won't be seen under the console.

18 We add Phillips head screws at the end of the trim plate to secure it. Line it up with the original hole and drill a hole into the metal trim plate to allow the screw to pass through and into the plastic console base, retaining the trim plate.

19 After dropping in our new ashtray and adding two new ashtray bumpers, the console is ready for installation.

20 If you're converting to a factory console, you'll need the correct console shifter plate. Remove the shifter T-handle, shifter bezel, and shifter-bezel retainer, then drop the console shifter plate in place and secure it with the four screws removed from the old retainer. You can see the dash-to-console wiring-harness end poking through the carpet. If you're converting to a console, you'll need this harness as well.

21 With the T-handle off the shifter, place the freshened console between the seats. Use a scratch awl to locate the mounting holes and reinstall the console attaching screws. Since we're adding a console we'll have to make new holes. Install the shifter opening plate and A/C end cap (if required) and check for proper fit between the console and A/C evaporator and shifter. Once the console is positioned, you'll have to drill holes.

22 We use several tools to drill the holes into the transmission tunnel. A Craftsman 18V cordless drill is used to drill the holes without having to drag an extension cord through the car. Attached to the drill is a 12-inch drill-bit extension that uses quick-release drill bits. A scratch awl is below the drill, then a Phillips screwdriver. We carefully drill the holes, using the bit extension to keep the drill's chuck away from the console's plastic sides. Once the hole is made, we use the scratch awl through the drilled hole to push the carpet and underlayment aside to allow threading the screw into each hole.

23 The console's chrome end cap is secured by two Phillips head screws. Drill holes for these screws as well (on new installations).

Completed installation of the Deluxe console in Project '66 Hardtop.