MSD Ignition has long been a resource for high-quality automotive ignition components. From distributors and spark-plug wires to the company's stalwart 6AL ignition box, many a vintage Mustang and all sorts of other popular cars are equipped with MSD pieces.

Convertible top replacement and adjustment isn't for the weak of heart because it mandates patience and a solid understanding of how convertible tops fit and function. However, you can do it yourself if you have the right tools and patience. We decided to visit Mustang Country in Paramount, California, for a look at how professionals replace Mustang convertible tops, which combines mechanical repair and fabrication on almost every level.

The '05-'08 Mustang is a sure-fire hit among enthusiasts, so much so that it's almost impossible to own one without another one just like it showing up down the street. Fortunately, there are a myriad of products available for dressing up a new Mustang. Among the most popular -and easiest to install - are the covers for the C-pillar side windows on '05-'08 coupes.

Michelle Holstien is not the average 27-year-old. Her Mustang is older than she is. What's more, she did something unconventional in the eyes of a hard-core purist-she modified a genuine G-code '70 Boss 302. Regardless of which side of the fence you're on, it's one of the nicest Boss 302 Mustangs we've ever seen; it's tastefully modified with easily reversible components.

When we began restoring a '66 Mustang, glass replacement was the farthest thing from our minds. As a rule, we've always opted for the best used glass we could find. Original Ford Carlite glass is the best option when it can be found and salvaged for restoration use. Finding good Sun-X tinted Carlite glass for this Mustang project was anything but simple-the glass we found wasn't in show condition. Qualified glass shop talent can polish out minor scratches, but deep ones can't be removed. What's more, delaminated (fogged) windshields can't be saved.

The dashpad in a vintage Mustang is a rather high-profile interior component that's often one of the first pieces requiring replacement. Constant exposure to the hot sun is the main reason, and the result is usually cracks and/or surface warp.

On April 17, 1965, exactly one year after the Mustang's public introduction, Ford celebrated the first anniversary by introducing a pair of major option packages. One was the Interior Dcor Group, better known today as the Pony Interior. The other was the GT Equipment Group, which added foglights, side stripes, trumpet exhaust tips, fast-ratio steering, handling suspension, front disc brakes, and five-dial instrumentation (also part of the Interior Dcor Group). In particular, the grille-mounted foglights established a tradition for Mustang GTs: All subsequent Mustangs GTs except '69 have incorporated foglamps, mounted in the grille for '66-'68 and in the lower front valance from '82-'04. For '05, the GT's foglamps returned to a prominent position in the grille.

A lot has changed since '65-'73 Mustangs first rolled off the Ford assembly lines. Back then, there wasn't much to worry about regarding power accessories-a radio, a heater blower, conventional headlamps, and maybe optional air conditioning-so Mustangs were fitted with 38-, 45-, 55-, and 65-amp alternators with external regulators. At the time, they could keep up with the demand.

Galpin Ford in Southern California's San Fernando Valley was founded by Frank Galpin in 1946 right after World War II. His tiny operation began with a three-car showroom and eight employees. The original building is many miles away from the current location off of 405 Freeway in North Hills. Frank opened his first showroom in 1966 during the initial Mustang mania. In fact, some of the Walter Mitty Mustang television commercials were shot there.

Boost is a wonderful thing. That's why Carroll Shelby added the Paxton supercharger to the '66 GT350's option list. If you've never been in a blown Mustang, we recommend you avoid the experience unless you're prepared to install a supercharger on your own. Once you've experienced boost, you'll never want to go back to natural aspiration.

Recently, we showed the process for installing a dashpad in a '65 or '66 Mustang. This time, we're switching to the larger pads used in the ever-popular '69 and '70 Mustangs. Original pads and old replacements commonly crack in the radio-speaker area, making for an unsightly appearance.

Nearly 90 percent of the thousands of rearends built by Currie share some of the same parts, including the housings and axles. Other parts include the 9-Plus round-back, heavy-duty housing, as well as 31-spline axles built to the stock overall width and pinion offset specs of the car. Heavy-duty 2-1/2-inch-wide leaf-spring pads are installed in the stock location for easy bolt-in installation. The housing includes all third-member studs installed and the Torino-style, late-model, large-bearing housing ends. The axles include the stock 5-on-4-1/2-inch wheel-bolt pattern; installed wheel studs; 1/4-inch-thick, heavy-duty bearing retainer plates; and tapered, pressed-on, Timken-style wheel bearings. The crate rearends are shipped in four separate cartons, which include the housing, the third member, axles, and brakes. Basic assembly is required. Shown here are the housing, axles, and third member for the typical vintage Mustang application (PN FDM6466X for '65-'66, FDM6770X for '76-'70, and FDM7173X for '71-'73).

The late-model Mustang phenomenon continues, with plenty of thanks to the latest S197 model. The newest Mustang stands alone as the only remaining ponycar-at least for the moment. Since 1979, and especially since 1987 when the factory 5.0L engine reached 225 hp, the Mustang has been America's hottest performance car. From there, the aftermarket sprung into action. Hopping-up Mustangs became one of the hottest automotive trends from 1987 until the end of the Fox-body era in 2004.

Last month, we covered the exterior modifications that make Mustangs look so great. This month, we're talking about power and getting it to the pavement. Put them together, stir in some suspension and interior updates-which we'll cover in the next couple of issues-and you have the makings for a top-notch Mustang restomod.

The time has come. As Mustang enthusiasts, we now have an additional choice on building a car. It can, of course, still be done as always, which is to begin with an existing car in any condition, from a beater to a gem, and restore it to original or personalize it to your own liking.

One of the more frustrating aspects of vintage Mustang ownership and restoration is leaking windshields. It's frustrating because no one wants to see their carpet-or feet-soaking wet. Classic Mustangs used rubber gaskets for windshields and rear glass through 1968. Beginning in 1969, Ford started gluing in the windshields, yet stayed with rubber-gasket backlights through 1973. Glued-in windshields have been a blessing because, unless you're really careless, they will not leak. Rubber-gasket installations take a lot of practice to keep them from leaking. Rare is the rubber-gasket windshield that doesn't. If your toes and carpet are wet, you're in good company because a lot of us wrestle with the same problem.

Ford never meant for a '65 Mustang to last upward of 40 years. But here we are four decades later and first-year Mustangs are still among the most desirable of all collectible Ponies-and it looks to remain that way for the foreseeable future.

In the March '07 issue, we looked at some of the popular exterior modifications for Mustang restomods. Last month, we focused on drivetrain upgrades from stroker engines to overdrive transmissions. This month, suspension components have our attention. There are plenty of options vailable for upgrading a vintage Mustang's suspension. You can go mild with a traditional spring and shock package, or you can go wild with tubular arms and coilover shocks.

Vent window frames are similar to steering wheels-they're visible from the driver seat at all times, and when they're in bad condition, well, the driver is stuck with them in his vision at all times. Now, thanks to a new reproduction available from Mustangs Unlimited, owners of '67-'68 Mustangs can replace pitted, rusted, and otherwise unsightly vent-window frames with a new frame coated with shiny, beautiful chrome.

We always try to make our articles helpful and informative. We think this how-to is exactly that: a useful repair-type examination of a procedure we've never covered before.

Where the interior is concerned, the steering wheel is the focal point. Because it's one of the first things you see while driving, it's in constant view. With that being the case, an ugly or cracked wheel is nothing but an ocular annoyance when you're driving your Mustang. At each revolution, you get a good view of that bothersome crack or gapping chunk that was the result of the plastic shrinking over the years.

Modern technology has made it easier to own and drive classic Mustangs. Think about it: four-wheel disc brakes, fuel injection, 130-amp alternators, surround sound, electric locks, security systems, larger wheels and tires, and rack-and-pinion steering, among other things, are now available to bring a vintage Mustang to current expectations.

Originally, this special-tech feature was planned as an all-encompassing Mustang Restomod Guide. But as we delved into the subject, we realized the restomod movement has grown well beyond a single magazine section, so we decided to split the guide into four sections over four issues. This month, we're looking at some of the most popular exterior modifications for vintage Mustangs. Next month, we'll tackle the drivetrain-engine, transmission, and rearend-followed by guides to restomod the suspension and the interior.

A lot of energy has gone into making small-block Fords perform better during the past 44 years. Those first small-block Fords-the 221 and the 260 Fairlane V-8s from 1962-were fairly tame with an Autolite 2100 two-barrel carburetor and simple point-triggered ignition. Four-barrel carburetion didn't come until 1963 and only on the 289 High Performance. Each passing model year produced better small-block Fords: the 289-4V of 1964, 302 for 1968, the Boss 302 and 351W for 1969, a close cousin called the 351C for 1970, 400M for 1972, 351M for 1975, hydraulic roller tappet 5.0L (302ci) High Output in 1985, and the fuel-injected 5.0L High Output for 1986. In the late '90s, Ford eliminated the distributor completely in 5.0L Explorers.

If you're old enough to remem-ber fuel for 34-cents a gallon, Sunoco's Custom Blending pump, and the shock of the Arab Oil Embargo in the mid '70s, you understand the need for alternative fuels. People are unhappy with the price of gasoline these days, but at least it's still available for purchase. Thirty-six years ago, there were gas lines, odd and even license plate days, ten-gallon purchase limits, and other reminders of the limited availability of fossil fuels. In 1979, we went through gas shortages and higher prices to further prove our dependency on foreign oil.