Is dynoing an engine worth the time and expense?

Should you dyno test a fresh engine and is it worth the time and money?  In a word - yes.  Yes because professional dyno tuning by JGM Motorsports eliminates all doubt about how much power your engine is going to make.  Dyno testing and tuning also proves your engine's reliability because this is the hardest your engine will ever have to work - wide open throttle under a load at high rpm.  For approximately $600 a day, it worth every penny for peace of mind and an engine that's ready to fire when you drop it in your Mustang.

Block core shift and proper indexing means the difference between a good block and a bad one.

Have you ever noticed via a bunch of engine builds that oil galley passages don't always line up with gaskets and bearings?  We will get arguments on this one, but oil holes that don't line up with bearings are due to core shift during block casting at the foundry or mis-aligned factory tooling when the block was machined.  When you're selecting an engine block to start with, take a set of known good main bearings with you and check oil galley alignment. Any time oil galley alignment yields less than 50% of the passage, find another block. Mis-aligned oil galley passages are not your imagination nor are they always acceptable either.  The harder you're going to run an engine, the more liberal oil galley passages need to be. If you've no choice but to use the block you have, chamfer the oil passages to improve flow to bearings. Main bearings have priority - always.  Make sure they get plenty of oil. 

Ford executive Brian Wolfe, one of the pioneers of Mustang 5.0 drag racing, has been appointed as the new Director of Ford Racing Technology.

Brian replaces Dan Davis, who retired in August after serving as Ford Racing’s Director for 11 years.

After graduating in 1982 from the University of Michigan-Dearborn with bachelor and master’s degrees in Mechanical Engineering, Brian went to work for Ford as part of the Ford College Graduate program in heavy truck engines. As his career began to evolve, he moved upward with a position in engine engineering. At the same time, his passion for motorsports also grew. 

He bought an ‘86 Mustang GT, the first year of the fuel-injected cars, and a friend at Ford Racing (then called Ford Motorsport) passed along some specialty parts asking him to try out the "GT-40 package." The results were mesmerizing. "I remember thinking, ‘Wow, this is pretty cool," said Wolfe, after having run faster on his inaugural run in the Mustang than he ever had in his 428 Cobra Jet Fairlane. "I was hooked and for a while, I had one of the fastest Mustang Pro 5.0 cars around." 

Brian’s ’86 GT became a test vehicle for Ford Motorsport as he competed against the top 5.0 racers, like Stormin’ Norman, Gene Deputy, and Don Walsh Sr. It was the first fuel-injected Mustang to run in the 11s, 10s, and 9s.

Most recently, Brian was Director of Powertrain Calibration and Controls, with responsibility for all powertrain computer-control software applications and powertrain calibrations. As Director of Ford Racing, Brian oversees Ford's motorsport efforts, including Sprint Cup and NHRA drag racing.

These are period five-spoke wheels from the 1960s.  Do you know what they are?

Interesting reader question that included this photo.  We think these are Shelby Cragar five-spoke wheels from Carroll Shelby's wheel company of the period.  Can anyone identify them?

Please email me at thesmart67@msn.com.  Thanks!

Although summer is almost over, check your cooling system for fall fun.

This one bites us in the keister more times than not - cooling systems.  It's incredible how we spend large sums of money on engines, yet conveniently overlook the engine's most important support system.  First - choose a high-capacity radiator to get your foundation in place - and don't do this on the cheap.  Go for the most cooling capacity that will fit your application.  Next - a high-flow water pump, preferably aluminum for weight reduction and improved heat transfer.  A 160 or 180 degree thermostat determined by normal engine operating temperature.  You don't want an engine that runs too cool.  If it runs cool at 160 degrees, that's unacceptable.  Warm it up with a 180-degree thermostat because an engine that operates around 180-200 degrees is a happy one.  Remember - when coolant temperature is 230 degrees, oil temperature is a whole lot hotter.  Engine oil begins to break down and fail at 260 degrees.  Synthetics give you grace until 300 degrees.   

If you're running a fuel-injected 5.0L or 4.6L engine, you must have a 195-degree thermostate for proper electronic engine control function. The engine's computer doesn't come on line until 195 degrees coolant temperature.   Run it at 180 degrees and you will remain in open loop - rich fuel mixture and an engine that runs like - well - you know...

We get arguments on this, but you MUST have an anti-collapse spring in your lower radiator hose no matter what anyone will tell you.  Engines that overheat only on the freeway/interstate are suffering from lower radiator hose collapse and no coolant flow.  Although no one includes anti-collapse springs in lower radiator hoses, make sure yours has one. 

Radiator cooling is optimized when we do the right thing.  Your radiator should have a shroud.  Fan depth in shroud should be half in and half out for optimum air flow.  Air flow across a radiator should be smooth and without turbulence.  When air moves too fast across a radiator, it cannot transfer heat out.  That's why engines sometimes overheat at high vehicle speed.  Extremely high air flow creates boundry layers in places you never want it, keeping a radiator from giving up its heat. 

Fan capacity should always be at least 2500-3000cfm.  Any less and you're courting trouble. 

And finally - Marvin McAfee of MCE Engines in Los Angeles recommends heavy-duty cooling system hoses and two clamps at every junction.  You can reach Marvin at 323-731-0462 or MCEEngines@aol.com. 

Latemodel Restoration Supply has taken the great-looking 10th Anniversary Cobra wheel and made it better.

Starting with the classic design of the 10th Anniversary Cobra wheel, LRS has widened it to 10.5-inches to allow for a fatter tire to get the horsepower to the road. The new wheels feature a machined lip and are available in 17x9 and 17x10.5 dimensions in the customer’s choice of Anthracite, Black, Chrome, or all-new Bronze finish.

Shipping is only $14.95.

Contact: Latemodel Restoration Supply, 400 Jan Drive Hewitt, TX 76643; 866-507-3786, or order online at http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/.

Do you have at least one Mustang that's a keeper?

In other words, among cars that you might buy and sell over the years, is there one or more Mustangs you have that will very likely or absolutely never be for sale?

We've bought and sold a few cars over the years among our staff. But there are those that occupy a special place for us. For example, editor Farr has a '66 GT coupe that's been in his family for pretty much its entire life. And our '69 fastback project car--one we've had for a relatively short six years--is another one that we have no plans to let go of. We've been asked dozens of times about our green 69; "hey, wanna sell it?" But we always say, "no thanks."

What car fits that description for you? Tell us here and post a photo of it our readers-ride section, too.

Inspect and retrofit your Mustang's fuel system for safety.

Is your fuel system adequate - and safe?  In recent years, there have been a rash of fuel system related fires mostly because motorists are not inspecting and maintaining fuel systems as they should. This logic applies to classic Mustangs as much as it applies to any other type of vehicle.  Your Mustang's old fuel system hoses are not designed to tolerate today's gasoline additives - and this includes ethanol (E85).  Are your fuel hoses safe?  

First order of business is fuel system hoses, carburetors, and fuel filters.  Although you can purchase fuel system hose to use on a low pressure, carbureted fuel system, we suggest using heavy-duty, high pressure fuel hose instead - which is designed for today's harsh fuel additives, including ethanol.  We're talking fuel injection pressure tolerant hose with a higher burst pressure.  

Where possible, eliminate fuel system hose altogether - hard-lining your fuel system between fuel pump and carburetor.  The easiest way to hard line is the use of a 1964-65 Autolite 2100 or 4100 with a solid line between pump and carburetor.  Use a fuel pump with fuel filter built in that's easy to replace. 

And while we're on this subject, if you have built a high-performance engine for your Mustang, did you remember to upgrade the fuel system?  If you're making 400 horsepower, that wimpy 5/16-inch fuel line isn't enough.  It's like asking your engine to use a cocktail straw for a milkshake.  At wide open throttle, you need fuel volume - LOTS of fuel volume or your carburetor runs dry.  How embarrassing when the competition roars past you.  Good rule of thumb is to fit your Mustang with 3/8-inch fuel line - available from Classic Tube.  And if you're stepping up to big time power courting 500 horsepower, you need 7/16-inch fuel line and special accommodations.

In you're in the So-Cal area over the next three months near the end of the month, this is a fun event to check out.

Every last Saturday of the month, John Force Racing puts on a cruise-in event. Definitely worth the trip as you'll also be able to walk through the race shop and trophy room, which really gives you an idea of John's incredible racing career--a list of records and achievements unlikely to ever be broken.

Check it out:

http://www.johnforce.com/newCruiseNights-event-w.htm

What makes engines fail and what do we need to think about when we build?

What makes engines fail?  There are as many reasons as there are parts in an engine.  What matters more is technique - how an engine is machined, prepped, and assembled.  You can have all the best parts in the world.  However, if you don't properly prepare these parts to work smoothly in concert, your engine is doomed.  Marvin McAfee of MCE Engines in Los Angeles stresses extremes of attention to detail even when you're building a stock engine.

To ensure great engine building success, every single part from engine block to rocker arm nut must be checked.  Marvin's policy is "trust, but verify..."  Through a terrific friendship with Marvin, I've learned to leave no stone unturned.  Close inspection begins at teardown. Each and every part must be inspected and measured.  Wear patterns are everything to the integrity of a part. Do you know how to "read" parts?  There are no unimportant parts, by the way.  As you knock pistons and rods apart, measure rods for trueness (they're not always perfectly straight).  Measure piston wear top to bottom.  Measure bore wear.  Crank and cam journals should be measured. Oil passages should all be checked.  Block core shift can adversely affect oil galley positioning.  Poor oil galley indexing can lead to oil starvation.  Piston crown color and condition tells us how the engine was tuned and treated.  The same came be said for valve and seat condition.  Don't forget to check piston rings for breaks, cracks, and irregular wear patterns.  Does it look like the engine ever overheated? 

What you find during teardown is everything to why the engine failed or didn't live up to expectations. 

When it's time to do machine work and assemble the new engine, all new parts must be massaged and blueprinted.  Measure new parts.  Remove stress risers that can cause abnormal wear and failure.  Inspect for damage.  Disassemble and measure new oil pumps.  Never blindly install them without first inspecting.  Ditto for any new parts right out of the box.  Always degree the camshaft and check for true top-dead-center on all bores. 

When you have covered all the bases, you can relax knowing you've done everything humanly possible to ensure engine building success.

If you would like to chat with Marvin McAfee or consult with him about building your engine, call 323-731-0462 or email at mceengines@aol.com.   

Complete clutch and flywheel combo for under $350

PERRY, Ohio - Fidanza is now offering a budget clutch and flywheel combination that will leave Mustang owners with enough cash to pump gas in their 5.0!

The Fidanza 1.0 Budget Package (#381500) includes a 1.0 level clutch and a nodular iron flywheel (157-tooth ring, 50 oz. imbalance) as well as the pressure plate, release bearing, alignment tool and all necessary mounting hardware.

The kit fits 1986-1995 5.0L Ford Mustangs and retails for less than $350.

"Amidst skyrocketing gas prices it's just harder to get out there and enjoy your car," said Bob Scheid, vice president, Fidanza. "We're giving Mustang owners the opportunity to upgrade but still have enough leftover to have fun at the track."

Fidanza's1.0 clutch has a holding capacity of up to 350 lbs.-ft. torque to the wheels. The clutch assembly's pressure plate is a high clamp load unit that produces 2,400 lbs. of clamping force (stock unit = 1,700 lbs.) while engagement remains stock-like and is easy on the leg. The clutch disc is organic with a full Marcel and sprung hub.

The new 1.0 Budget Package represents the best value to Ford fanatics, though the nodular iron flywheel (#286500) or 1.0 clutch (#381840) can be purchased separately.

For Fidanza product information, visit the company Web site at www.fidanza.com.

A good friend of ours just had his '03 Cobra on the dyno. It got us wondering. Are these cars super sleeper values when it comes to serious Mustang performance?

We'd say without a doubt. In fact, they're likely the top screaming deal in today's market if you're looking for a Mustang that is already a strong runner in stock condition and can be transformed into a truly outrageous performance machine for much less than the cost of other cars. We're planning a future story on the recent dyno test session that took place at Swanson Performance (swansonperformance.com) where our subject car cranked out 567 horsepower at the rear wheels.

Tell us what you think. Do 03-04 Cobras occupy a special place in the Mustang performance picture? And are they at the top of the heap among all '79-'04s? Why or why not?

Your Mustang's battery tray does not have to rust.  Here are some suggestions.

It has been more than 100 years since both the automobile and lead-acid storage battery first came into use.  Wouldn't it be nice if you could buy a power source for your Mustang that didn't cause battery tray damage?  Well - you can.  Sealed dry-cell storage batteries are making it easier to both have a reliable power source for your Mustang and not have to worry about acid damage in the process. 

Optima makes terrific dry-cell (actually concentrated lead acid, but sealed) batteries for all Mustang generations. Based on personal experiences, these batteries last 7-8 years, never go dead (as long as there's no drain), and never cause battery tray rust.  The same can be said for those reproduction Autolite Sta-Ful dry-cell batteries available from Virginia Classic Mustang.  Because they are sealed, they don't vent or leak.  And because they're designed and manufactured to maintain a constant charge, you never have to worry about them running down. 

Reproduction Autolite Sta-Ful dry-cell batteries and all battery mounting hardware is available from Virginia Classic Mustang - www.virginiamustang.com.  If you're not concerned with originality, go for the Optima battery at www.optimabatteries.com.  Be advised dry-cell batteries don't come cheap - but are worth every penny.   

New from Mustang Project are LED Instrument Lamps for ’65-’73 Mustangs. Four different colors are available.

Specifically designed for the unusual lighting circuits in vintage Mustangs, the cool-running LEDs are up to four times brighter than the old incandescent lamps. 

Available in blue, amber, red, and green colors, each kit contains Mustang Project’s unique LED design for the turn signal indicator and multiple LED lamps for the alternator, oil pressure, and instrument/gauge illumination. Each kit is warranted for the life of your Mustang.

For more information, visit the website at www.mustangproject.com or call 800/631-0507 or 512/828-6417. Send e-mail to sales@mustangproject.com.

How to treat hot exhaust manifolds or headers where they won't rust again?

Dunno about you, but I like restoration tasks that only have to be performed once, then, never have to be done again. So what to do about rusty exhaust manifolds that rust, burn, and peal?  The Eastwood Company has High Temp Coating for hot exhaust manifolds you can apply in a matter of 30 minutes once manifolds or pipes have been media blasted and are clean. Apply Factory Gray High Temp Coating with a paint brush.  No special equipment is required and you won't have to spend much to make it happen.  If you drive your Mustang daily, count on having to strip and apply High Temp Coating eventually.  Occasional drivers can last years.  Go see www.eastwoodco.com for more information.

There's also Jet Hot Coatings, which offers two kinds of gray iron high temp colors for classic iron manifolds and other hot surfaces.  Jet Hot offers a variety of colors and temperatures, providing a high temperature coating that not only seals out rust, but seals in heat.  See www.jet-hot.com for more detailed information and prices.    

Learn by doing - tackling things you've never dreamed you could do.

More than a decade ago, my '67 Mustang hardtop needed floor pans, torque box, frame rail extensions, quarter panels, trunk floor extensions, cowl vent dams, and more.  Because I could not afford to pay someone to do all of this sheet metal work, I had to learn how to do it myself. Because I did have welding experience, I knew how to strike a pretty good arc and get metal to flow without blowing a hole. It was learning how to fabricate and replace steel panels that took a learning curve.  Quite frankly, I was fearful of making a mistake I could not reverse, that is, until I asked myself what the worst that could happen was.  If I botched it up, I could always do it over again and who'd know? 

So dare to take a chance with your talents and abilities.  The Eastwood Company has just about anything imaginable for the home restorer.  Eastwood provided me with a Lincoln MIG welder (110 volt) and everything necessary to replace steel panels. Every phase of sheet metal replacement went well, but was not easy to accomplish.  Some had to be done over, which is how I learned how to do it right the second time.

Do you have a challenge you're afraid of tackling?  Take a chance and learn something in the process.  What's the worst that can happen?

The Paddock has every conceivable sheet metal part imaginable for classic Mustangs. The Eastwood Company has all the tools necessary to get there.  For more information on The Eastwood Company, go to www.eastwoodco.com.  See www.paddockparts.com for sheet metals components.   

Clutch improvements you cannot see, but can feel when it's time to twist the key.

Thank goodness for clutch operation improvements that have made classic Mustangs easier to drive and enjoy.  There are at least two types of hydraulic clutch conversion kits out there from JMC Motorsports and Wilwood.  Cable clutch kits from D.B. Performance Engineering, Ron Morris Performance, and Modern Driveline have also made clutch operation much easier, thank you very much.

But what if you're restoring a classic Mustang and want to stick with factory original components where you open the hood and cannot see the difference?  This is where stealthy restomod improvements you cannot see, but can feel, come into play. Centerforce makes some of the best darned clutches in the world for classic Mustangs. These Dual-Friction, diaphragm style clutches work like a champ and they reduce pedal effort by a huge margin compared to Borg & Beck and Long style three-finger clutches. Older three-finger clutches yield high pedal effort and exceptional holding power.  If you like a heavy clutch pedal, these power monger clutches are for you.  

The Centerforce design yields mild diaphragm style pedal effort and a unique centrifugal flyweight design that increases holding power as engine rpm increases.  This means reduced pedal effort and high holding power.

When you use the Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch, you can use your Mustang's original linear bellcrank equalizer bar set-up. Freshen up your clutch activation system with a new equalizer bar, brackets, bushings, and felts.  Check the helper spring underdash and equalizer bar return spring while you're in there.  There's nothing wrong with Ford's original equalizer bar system if you have a reduced pedal effort clutch inside the bellhousing.

One more thing - when you order a clutch pilot bearing, spend money on a high-quality needle bearing type for better performance.

For more information, contact Centerforce at www.centerforce.com.  For clutch linkage information, go to www.npd-link.com.  

Shelby Automobiles Inc., Carroll Shelby, and designer/artist Bill Neale are celebrating the rebirth of the famous Terlingua Racing Team with the first annual Shelby Bullrun Challenge in West Texas on Sept. 25-28.

The event includes a combination of driving events and parties for celebrities and enthusiasts that will rival the ones that gave rise to the Terlingua legend 40 years ago.

"We created the Shelby Terlingua Racing Team so our small group of rebels could have some real fun," noted Carroll Shelby, founder of Shelby Automobiles. "Now, I’m inviting a new generation to return with me for a weekend they’ll always remember."

The Shelby Bullrun Challenge is open to any enthusiast in an original Shelby vehicle (including a Cobra, Series 1, GT350, GT500, Shelby GT, Dodge GL-H, Tiger, etc.), a Ford GT, or Mustang. Activities will include a challenging 350-mile rally, an open-road 12-mile time trial, a competitive driving course on an airstrip, and a ½-mile drag race in the Big Bend area. Other activities will include a car show, hole-in-one golf competition, Texas "shootout," chili cook-off and autograph sessions with Mr. Shelby.

"This will be an exceptional automotive event deep in the heart of Texas," added Amy Boylan, president of Shelby Automobiles. "The Shelby Bullrun Challenge is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to be part of a small, intimate group with celebrities like Tom Yeager and Bill Neale, who was a co-founder of the group. And we’re going to have high-octane fun with some of the most fantastic cars on earth. We’re even bringing some new Terlingua Racing Team supercharged Shelby Mustangs to test out."

The Terlingua Racing Team’s roots began when Ford asked Carroll Shelby to turn its Mustang into a race winner. His team created a competition version of the Shelby GT350 for that purpose. About that time, Shelby and a few close friends, including Bill Neale, Dave Witts, Tom Tierney, and David E. Davis, Jr., were enjoying the Terlingua area of the Texas Rio Grande region. Thumbing their nose at the establishment, they lived hard and enjoyed life to its fullest between winning races.

As a symbol of their lifestyle, Neale designed a black and yellow logo of a rabbit holding his paw in the air. That livery, along with host of performance enhancements, are now part of a Shelby Automobiles post-title package for the V6 Ford Mustang and current production Shelby Cobras.

"Though the Terlingua Racing Team flew under the radar after Shelby stopped building GT350s and GT500s in the 1960s, it’s flying high again today," noted Neale. "With Shelby Autos creating Terlingua Racing Team edition versions of the Mustang and Cobra, it was time to bring back some of the extracurricular activities that make racing, and life, so much more meaningful."

The event package includes a stay at the Lajitas Resort, one of the most exclusive locations in the Southwest, all meals, drivers’ welcoming dinner, final awards party, charity auction for special Terlingua, and Shelby memorabilia and exclusive Team Shelby gifts. The price for the weekend is $2,500 (based on two drivers in shared accommodations). The package also includes a Team Shelby membership.

To participate in the event, contact samantha@bullrun.com or visit www.teamshelby.com.

The dispute between the Shelby American Automobile Club and Carroll Shelby Licensing has been settled.

An announcement on SAAC's website at www.saac.com states, "On August 8, 2008, an agreement was signed, putting behind us the turmoil and uncertainty that accompanied this legal conflict. We are now and forever the Shelby American Automobile Club. This is the result of some very hard work by people from both organizations. Rick (Kopec) and Ken (Eber), as well as efforts by Dave Mathews, Ron Richards and Dave Winkler at SAAC... and Amy Boylan and Carroll Shelby at CSL and Shelby Autos. ... all worked through the negotiations that settled any and all disagreements and put us all on the same page... where we can all get back to enjoying the cars and the history of Shelby American."

Specific details of the settlement have not been announced.

Earlier this year, Carroll Shelby Licensing elected not to renew SAAC's license. SAAC subsequently filed a lawsuit.

Our congratulations to both SAAC and Shelby for coming to a resolution in time for SAAC-33, scheduled for August 15-16 at Thunderbolt Raceway in Millville, New Jersey. The new Team Shelby plans to participate.

Cool custom accessories from Trans Am Racing that take restomod to a whole new level.

We've been working with Mark Jeffrey of Trans Am Racing for more than a decade and we're having a ball.  Mark is a died-in-the-wool Ford enthusiast who knows how to put a good spin on an engine build.  He's very good, thoughtful, detailed in his execution.

It's no surprise Mark has come up with a wealth of engine building accessories to add to his already successful line that includes compact power brake booster packages for classic Mustangs.

If you'd like the custom look of perfectly fabricated accessories like fuel lines, pressure regulators, fuel pumps, carburator feeds, and more - Trans Am Racing has all kinds of goodies to satisfy your needs and wants without the high cost of having these items made for you.

We like Trans Am Racing's blower belt drive style alternator/water pump drive for small-block Fords. Aside from it guaranteeing you flawless accessory drive performance, it looks terrific if you're building a restomod.

Trans Am Racing also does custom valve cover and air cleaner engraving with CNC precision.  All you have to do is call Mark with the details.  For more information contact Trans Am Racing at 310/323-5417.

Terry Fritts from the Twister Special Registry has announced the first-ever Twister Reunion in conjunction with the Midwest Ford Fest atKansas City International Raceway on September 13. 

Designed as a homecoming for the Twister Special '70 Mach 1s, Torinos, and Rancheros; '85 Mustangs; and the new '08 Mustangs from R&A Motorsports, the reunion takes place at the same track where the original '70 Twisters were introduced in 1969.

For 1970, only 96 Grabber Orange Mustangs, 90 Torinos, and 4 Rancheros were built as Twister Specials, all sold in Kansas, Missouri, and northwest Arkansas. In 1985, 90 Twister II hardtops and convertibles were built in four colors. This year, R&A Motorsports revived the Twister Special concept by building 96 Mustangs with retro touches that play homage to the original Twisters.

The Midwest Ford fest, hosted by the Mid-America Cobra Club, is open to all cars with a Ford body or engine. Activities include a drag race, car show, and swap meet. For more information, visit the website at www.midwestfordfest.com.

In our August 2008 issue, Senior Editor Jim Smart touches some on a Total Control Products power rack-and-pinion system being installed in a '66 Mustang.

That how-to also shows several TCP pieces being put into place on Project Reclaim--the 66 being built at Mustangs Plus. Also coming soon, will be another rack-and-pinion install with TCP but this one will be different in several ways. First, the car is our 69 fastback project, so this story will apply to those of you with 67-70 Mustangs. And second, this setup will show a manual rack being installed, for those of you interested in a less complicated arrangement. Finally, we'll also be at Reenmachine, one of the easiest-to-work-with shops we've dealt with in recent memory. For more info, check out both totalcontrolproducts.com and reenmachine.com.

Classic Design Concepts is staging its second annual Open House and Cruise-In on Wednesday, August 13, just prior to the Woodward Dream Cruise in Detroit.

Well-known for its styling components for late-model Mustangs, including sequential taillights and convertible light bars, CDC is inviting everyone out to its facility at 42860 W. Nine Mile Rd. in Novi, Michigan, for food, drinks, and give-aways. The event starts at 4:00 PM. At 7:00 PM, CDC will lead eveeryone on a cruise to Woodward Avenue.

Participants who pre-register by August 11 will be entered for a special give-away. Also, CDC is offering installation specials all day, from 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM. To pre-register for the Open House or to make an appoinment for an installation, call 866-624-7997 or send an e-mail to ch@classicdesignconcepts.com.

When you're doing regular preventative maintenance, don't forget the steering coupler.

This is something that can bite you badly if you're not on top of things.  The humble steering shaft "rag joint" is exposed to extreme heat, ozone, and dryness. Although these guys last a long time, you never know when they will deterior and fail, leaving you with marginal, if no steering.

Rag joints first appeared on classic Mustangs in 1967 with tilt-away steering and toward the end of the model year. From then on, all Mustang steering columns had rag joints.  Don't go looking for one of these on your '65.

When you do oil change and chassis lubrication, don't forget to inspect the steering coupler in the interest of safety.

If you need a new one, see Mustangs Plus for a replacement at 800/999-4289, 209/944-9977, or visit their website at www.mustangsplus.com.

Mustang Project now offers a new fiberglass adaptor panel for a molded-in factory look when using Shelby-look taillights on '65-'66 Mustangs.

The panel (PN FIB-004) mounts to the Mustang's existing taillight panel with no bodywork required to provide a sculpted look when installing Mustang Project's exclusive Shelby-style LED taillight modules (PN MP6007). The fiberglass panel can be painted to match the car color or used as-is for contrast. The panel can be removed in the future without damaging the vehicle.

For more information, visit the website at www.mustangproject.com, or call 800-631-0507 or 512-828-6417.