I am having a problem with my '88 Mustang LX convertible. It has the 2.3L engine. The A/C and heater fan motor is operating opposite of how it should. When it is on “low,”the fan is blowing “high.”Medium fan speeds are ok, yet when switched to “high” the blower fan's output is “low.” I have checked the fan motor with a known good unit, and I also checked the resistor block and it is good. I have not changed the switch in the control panel yet. Is there something I might have missed?
This is certainly a new one for us, David, but we'll try to help. The fan motor circuit is fairly basic and not that much different from the three-speed blowers in the vintage Mustangs. Power is applied to the blower motor through the dark blue wire with light green stripe (DB/LG), while the black wire exiting the motor passes through the blower switch and resistor block to control the fan speeds. On High speed, the switch bypasses the resistor block entirely. On Low, the switch is bypassed and only the resistor block is in play. Medium 1 and Medium 2 fan speeds also pass through the resistor block. Not second guessing your diagnostics to date, but how did you check the resistor block? Did you use an ohmmeter or just a visual inspection? I'm thinking that one or more wire terminals dislodged from either the blower switch connector or the resistor block connector and they were reinstalled in the wrong locations. To check this, inspect the switch connector on the back of the control panel. The blower switch will have four wires: orange/black stripe, black, light green/white stripe, and yellow/red stripe. Looking into the disconnected connector face with the lock tab at 12 o'clock, the wires should be in the following clockwise order from the upper left: BK, O/BK, Y/R, LG/W(per photo shown above). Alternatively, you can verify the wiring routes to the proper resistor terminal: O/BK to pin 4, LG/W to pin 3, Y/R to pin 2, and BK to pin 1.
Boss 302 Clone
I bought a '11 GT convertible last spring and thought it would be fun to build it into a Boss 302. I know words like “clone” or “tribute” are thrown around with a negative connotation, but is it possible to build an exact replica of the modifications to make my '11 GT into a Boss 302? Not just appearance, but engine, performance, everything. I would love an article on all the components needed to make this happen, but I can't find a thing. I'm still not sure people would appreciate creating a newer Boss 302, but it sounds like a great project to work on and learn. Any feedback or thoughts would be appreciated?
Is it possible to build a Boss 302 from your '11 GT using production Boss 302 parts? The short answer is no, it is not. However, anyone who knows me knows that I rarely give a short answer, so I will offer up a bit more detail of why this will not work. Let's start with the heart of the Boss 302, its engine. You can certainly order the Boss manifold, cams, valvetrain, and other bits (or just get a Boss 302 crate engine from Ford Racing), but you will not be able to buy the VIN specific engine plaque. I know, a small part, but it's what makes a Boss a Boss. Speaking of VIN, the famed Boss TracKey feature will not work on the GT. It won't work even with a Boss PCM installed, as it requires a Boss-specific VIN to be activated. Our friends at Ford Racing tell us a GT-based TracKey package is in the works, however it will only work on '14 GTs, as they do not have an easy way to flash the dash cluster firmware on the '11-'13 models. You also cannot buy the Boss 302 logo Recarro seats (new anyway, perhaps from a wrecked car). We have to simply ask “why” when the cost of the suspension, wheels, and especially the engine will cost far more than simply selling your GT and picking up a gently used '12 or '13 Boss 302 in your favorite color and calling it good.
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