How To Install A Steeda Timing Adjuster

In the simple world of 5.0 Mustangs, adjusting your timing is a dragstrip ritual that takes all of five minutes. Hook up your timing light, crank up the motor, pull the SPark OUTput (SPOUT) connector, loosen the distributor, and set the timing to your liking. Before you know it, you're finished, and ready to try your new combination (don't forget to take good notes so you'll know what works). Setting your timing in this manner has not changed much since the dawn of the single point breaker distributor. But instead of pulling and plugging a vacuum line, you're unplugging the SPOUT connector.

For those of you with a '96-current 4.6 Mustang (GT or Cobra), adjusting your timing hasn't been a simple task in the past. Before Steeda designed the 4.6 timing adjuster, you basically had two options-a custom-calibrated computer chip or a laptop computer and tuning software. Both were expensive-especially if you didn't own a laptop-and had major drawbacks. A computer chip works fine and does an admirable job of creating power. But if you want to tweak the timing for a new combination (perhaps you installed larger injectors or ported the heads), then you'll have to return the computer chip to the manufacturer for correction and for chassis dyno time to calibrate it. Steeda has proven that the direct mechanical movement of the timing adjuster is more reliable than computer chips, which can suffer from poor connections and/or a loss of calibration.

Fear not if you already have a computer chip in your 4.6. The Steeda timing adjuster works with all existing chips and other timing-control devices. In fact, these devices are unaware that the Steeda timing adjuster is even present! Keep in mind how your other timing device or chip affects the timing when you manually set the Steeda adjuster. The factory timing setting is 10 degrees, and the Steeda adjuster can adjust base timing from 0 to 20 degrees. Thus you have 10 degrees of advance and 10 degrees of retard available with the Steeda adjuster. The Steeda timing adjuster will work with underdrive pulleys too, though Steeda or Auto Specialties pulleys are preferred. The piggyback-style pulleys require an adapter from Steeda and work only with the proper crankshaft-keyway orientation. However, not all piggyback pulleys have the proper crankshaft-keyway orientation required for the timing adjuster.

Made from 6061-T6 aluminum, the Steeda timing adjuster comes in three main parts: the engine bracket, the adjustable timing bracket, and the timing trigger wheel. The timing trigger wheel is steel (it has to be magnetic) and is nickel-plated to inhibit corrosion. The Steeda timing adjuster works on all '96-'99 4.6 2V and 4V Mustang applications, and will clear Vortech and most other super-charger kits (provided they use the stock crankshaft pulley and provided the mounting bracket doesn't interfere with the timing adjuster bracket).

	The A/C compressor will need...        read full caption The A/C compressor will need to be temporarily removed from the engine mounting bracket to allow removal of the timing sensor. Four bolts hold the compressor in place. Once the bolts have been removed, the compressor can be pulled out of the way-just enough to remove the sensor without damaging any of the A/C lines. Note the location of the timing sensor (arrow).	Using your fingernail or a...        read full caption Using your fingernail or a small, flat pocket screwdriver, depress the locking tab on the timing sensor wiring connector and disconnect it from the sensor. If necessary, you can temporarily tape or tie the wiring connector to the sway bar to prevent it from becoming lost behind the A/C compressor upon reinstallation.
All hardware on the engine...        read full caption All hardware on the engine and the new sensor are metric (except for the Allen bolts for the adjustment), so make sure that you have an assortment of metric sockets. Remove the original timing sensor retaining bolt and set it aside for later use.	Carefully slide the sensor...        read full caption Carefully slide the sensor out of the side of the timing cover. The sensor is quite long, so make sure that the A/C compressor is out of the way as you pull out the sensor. Once the sensor has been pulled out, remove the oil from it and keep it away from any metal filings,as they will stick to the magnetic tip and create a mess.	Install the supplied O-ring...        read full caption Install the supplied O-ring onto the stub of the adjuster bracket and lightly coat the O-ring with oil (yank the dipstick for quick access to engine oil). Carefully insert the stub of the adjuster bracket into the timing cover hole, making sure that you don't roll or cut the O-ring during installation.
Using the new bolt (with captive...        read full caption Using the new bolt (with captive lock washer) supplied with the adjuster kit, secure the adjuster bracket to the timing cover.	Next, the trigger wheel is...        read full caption Next, the trigger wheel is installed. You won't need to pull off the damper, but you will remove the retaining bolt. Once the retaining bolt has been removed, separate the bolt and washer. Even though the washer isn't used with the trigger wheel, we don't recommend discarding it.	The trigger wheel is indexed...        read full caption The trigger wheel is indexed to the keyway on the stock crankshaft damper. Our damper had a small dab of silicone or other sealer in the keyway, which had to be picked out to allow the trigger wheel to lock into the keyway. Carefully tighten the original retaining bolt, making sure that the trigger wheel is correctly seated and not cocked at an angle.