Our '66 hardtop is now ready...
Our '66 hardtop is now ready for the summer heat as well as MCA judges. Our compressor and compressor mounting brackets were installed when we detailed the engine for the May '04 issue.
The "restomod" Mustang seems to be the hot ticket these days. Whether it's an Eleanor clone, a Shelby clone, or someone's rendition of what the ultimate Mustang should look like, it's a hot topic among Mustang enthusiasts. One of the great things about restomod Mustangs is there's no rulebook. You can build one with any parts you want and won't be judged on paint daubs and date codes. For many who have been in the hobby for a long time, it's refreshing to be able to build what you want and drive when you want.
But make no mistake, there's still a large contingent of early Mustang owners who live and breathe by Mustang Club of America judging rules. These people can quote factory oddities and Ford part numbers better than their kids' birth dates.
While far from a complete...
While far from a complete list of parts installed, this photo shows the main package of hoses, brackets, wiring, dryer, and condenser included with the kit. Not shown is the main underdash evaporator assembly and previously installed compressor and brackets on the engine. If your Mustang has power steering, you'll have to replace the straight-neck power-steering reservoir with the slanted version for compressor clearance. Classic Auto Air now offers reproduction reservoirs.
Our '66 hardtop project falls somewhere in between. We aren't restoring this Mustang with N.O.S. parts or following the letter of the MCA (we can't see putting orange peel in a new paint job on purpose), but for the most part we wanted the car to look like a show winner, yet still have better performance, handling, and functionality. So we installed hidden engine performance mods, urethane suspension bushings with mild lowering springs, clearcoat paint, a CD changer, and more during the course of the restoration.
We wanted to add air conditioning for the sweltering summer show season here in the South, and we could have taken many directions with the installation. Classic Auto Air has multiple choices for Mustang cooling needs, from completely new solutions to systems that use stock-appearing plastic parts. Its new Perfect Fit series features complete heat and cool functions (in one case under the dash) with remote vent locations, all hoses, brackets, and a highly efficient Sanden compressor. It's a great-functioning system we've installed before, but it didn't offer quite the right look for our '66 restoration.
Classic Auto Air's Daily Driver system for the '65-'66 Mustang is one of its most popular sellers, featuring a plastic version of the original-style underdash unit, with hoses, brackets, and the Sanden compressor. The Daily Driver system is great for those on a budget, and can even be upgraded later to look concours correct. For our '66, however, we felt the factory-style "concours" system would be a better fit for the look of the car.
Al Sedita built Classic Auto Air's business upon this system and, while not his best seller these days, there wouldn't be a Daily Driver or a Perfect Fit without Al's tireless research and investment in the Mustang A/C system restoration and reproduction marketplace.
To gain access to the areas...
To gain access to the areas we'll be working on, Classic Auto Air technician Doug Gresian removes the grille assembly, horns, and hood latch with brace.
The lower valance has to be...
The lower valance has to be dropped for access and for mounting the condenser assembly. Remove the bumper guards and hardware retaining the valance to the stone deflector and front fenders. You can usually let the light valance hang from the turn-signal wiring or you can support it with a box covered with a towel.
The dryer attaches directly...
The dryer attaches directly to the condenser and is supported by a bracket that's attached with a tapping screw. The reproduction condenser uses a six-circuit core that improves heat transfer 30 percent compared to the original Ford unit. It's also R134a capable. Most of the A/C line fittings are flare fittings, requiring sealing oil on both sides of the flare. To prevent twisting the fittings, be sure to use two wrenches when tightening connections.
Before Doug installs the condenser...
Before Doug installs the condenser mounting brackets, he measures the bolt-hole locations on the core support and transfers these measurements to the condenser so the brackets can be installed.
Once the condenser is ready...
Once the condenser is ready for installation, remove the four radiator mounting bolts and J-nuts from the core support. The radiator won't move much with the coolant hoses connected, so it can be left in the engine compartment temporarily.
The condenser mounting-bracket...
The condenser mounting-bracket studs are carefully slid through the core support, radiator, and fan-shroud mounting brackets. It looks like it requires three hands, but with patience one person can tackle the job.
As stated earlier, the compressor...
As stated earlier, the compressor was already mounted on our engine, so Doug only had to install the service valves onto the compressor. On the upper valve, the hose end faces toward the firewall, and on the lower valve the hose end faces toward the core support.
With any connection on the...
With any connection on the A/C system, be sure the seal is oiled and use two wrenches when tightening the connections.
Two 11/4-inch holes have to...
Two 11/4-inch holes have to be drilled in the core support for the liquid line and discharge hose. The locations for the holes are in the original core supports by the stamped dimple in the metal. Use the line to measure where the hole has to be cut. This is the lower hole; the liquid line 90-degree fitting has been installed through the opening. Don't forget the rubber grommet for the hole.
The discharge hose comes off...
The discharge hose comes off the condenser and passes through the core support to the compressor. Use the dimple or hose to locate the hole that has to be cut.
The modified discharge hose...
The modified discharge hose is attached to the service valve on the compressor and tightened.
The suction and liquid line...
The suction and liquid line hoses are attached to the rear of the underdash evaporator unit in preparation for installing the underdash assembly. These hoses will be routed through the firewall. Look for an oval knockout plate on the firewall that has to be removed to allow the hoses to pass through.
After carefully sliding the...
After carefully sliding the underdash assembly roughly into place, the liquid and suction lines are routed under the hood. The suction line attaches to the upper service valve on the compressor, while the liquid line is attached to the aluminum section of the two-part liquid line.
The liquid line and its aluminum...
The liquid line and its aluminum half are assembled and secured to the inner shock tower with the included rubber-covered clamp and tapping screw. There is a dimple mark on the shock tower where the tapping screw will be installed.
With all of the lines connected,...
With all of the lines connected, the underdash assembly can be attached to the dash. Mounting holes are already in place in most cars, but early cars might need the right-side hole drilled out beneath the glovebox.
This is the firewall opening...
This is the firewall opening mentioned earlier. Once the hoses are routed through, pop the rubber grommet in place over the hoses and secure the whole thing with the included grommet retaining bracket and two tapping screws. The wire passing through the center is the clutch engagement wire, which is routed over the engine to the A/C compressor clutch.
We couldn't watch as Doug...
We couldn't watch as Doug drilled the drain-hose hole through our brand new floorpans, but it's a necessary evil of the installation. The carpet is carefully trimmed to prevent pulling by the drill bit, then a hole saw is used to make the opening.
For V-8 applications, a new...
For V-8 applications, a new fan shroud and a high-flow, six-blade cooling fan is installed to keep the engine cool while the A/C is keeping you cool.
To ensure proper belt tension,...
To ensure proper belt tension, Classic Auto Air installers use this handy belt tension gauge. The Mustang A/C system is definitely known for its belt slap, which is more pronounced with a loose belt.
With the system installation...
With the system installation complete, all that's left is to charge the system, check for leaks, and reinstall the front-end items. We can quickly charge the system and check for leaks at Classic Auto Air before reinstalling the front valance; but if you're following along at home in your driveway, put everything back together before going to the A/C shop for system charging.
After charging the system,...
After charging the system, Doug closed up the windows, placed the system on the coldest setting, and checked again for leaks and any other problems (there were none). Once the system temperature stabilized, we were pleasantly surprised to see Doug's digital thermometer (whose thermocouple was positioned in the center vents) read a chilly 38 degrees. We shouldn't have any problem staving off the Florida summer heat when we show or cruise, and the system looks like it came down the assembly line like the rest of the car.