Important Points
Scott Drake Enterprises suggests getting your Electro-Luminescent power from a circuit independent of the instrument lights. We tried getting ours from the instrument light circuit (blue wire with red stripe), which would theoretically make the faces light up when you turn on the parking and headlights. We wanted to keep the Mustang's instrument lights working in conjunction with the Electro-Luminescent faces for fill-in light. Because the instrument lamps ground through the metal cluster, they tend to interfere with the faces. When we disconnected the lamps, the faces worked. When we installed and grounded the lamps, the faces did not work. If you desire both, here's what you must do for proper operation. There must be an insulator between the plastic chromed bezel and the steel instrument cluster. Electrical tape works well, as does a rubber strip. This keeps the chrome from carrying stray electricity, which adversely affects Electro-Luminescent operation.
We also learned it isn't advisable to get your Electro-Luminescent power from the instrument lighting circuit (blue with red stripe). It doesn't like resisted current, which comes from the headlight switch. Instead, get the power from the parking-light circuit. This provides unresisted current for proper operation. With the Electro-Luminescent faces and factory instrument lights operating on separate circuits, you're free to control both lighting efforts independently.

Disconnect the instrument...

Disconnect the instrument wiring harness as shown. Take a digital picture of the harness before removal to ensure proper installation. The factory wiring diagram is in your '67-'68 Ford shop manual.

Remove the speedometer via...

Remove the speedometer via the two machine screws shown here.

You don't have to remove the...

You don't have to remove the speedometer, but Electro-Luminescent installation is easier with it out.

Next, remove each of the instruments...

Next, remove each of the instruments as shown. Keep track of the tinnerman's nuts used and which instrument they came from. The ammeter nuts have red insulators that must be used to prevent shorting. The rest have cardboard insulators.

We're using 3M's Super Weatherstrip...

We're using 3M's Super Weatherstrip Adhesive to retain the Electro-Luminescent faces to the instruments.

Use a thin film of 3M on both...

Use a thin film of 3M on both surfaces, then allow it to tack for 5-10 minutes before carefully applying the face. Check for proper alignment before moving on.

The speedometer needle does...

The speedometer needle does not have to be removed for the '67-'68. Just place the face around the needle. Do not get 3M adhesive on the needle.

Some gauges need to be modified...

Some gauges need to be modified to make way for the Electro-Luminescent faces. We carefully ground this right-of-way for the face because there can be no sharp bends in the faces and their wiring.

Electro-Luminescent faces...

Electro-Luminescent faces are applied to the instruments like this. Carefully lift the needles to make way for the faces. Do not distort the needles.

You can see we painted the...

You can see we painted the instrument needles with fresh fluorescent orange paint.

This is the oil pressure/ammeter...

This is the oil pressure/ammeter face combo for '67. For '68, it's the fuel gauge and ammeter. We had to grind the lip off the top of the face to make way for the wiring. It's a good idea to cover the grind area with an insulator to prevent shorting at the face.

Each of the gauges in the...

Each of the gauges in the gang instrument (right pod) is an individual gauge. Each instrument gets an Electro-Luminescent face.

The two gang instruments are...

The two gang instruments are installed as shown. Each has a tab that hooks it to the gang face. They become secure when installed in the instrument cluster.

When you install the instruments,...

When you install the instruments, remember they fit into the cluster one way: centered in the slot. The terminals must not touch the cluster anywhere.

The cardboard strip is important...

The cardboard strip is important because it insulates the terminals from the steel cluster. Snug the tinnerman's nuts, but do not overtighten.

The completed cluster looks...

The completed cluster looks terrific with its white-face instruments. These faces glow in green or blue, which can be switched from one to the other. They can also be dimmed.

For a clean installation,...

For a clean installation, it's a good idea to tie in the Electro-Luminescent harness with the factory harness as shown.

Ground the Electro-Luminescent...

Ground the Electro-Luminescent system to the cluster as shown, or you can use the dashboard structure behind the cluster.