Depending on your point of view, we can either thank or blame Thunderbird designers for starting this whole sequential taillight thing, where each side's innermost bulb lights first, followed in rapid succession by the middle and outer elements. Before long, the Shelby organization borrowed the idea--and some '65 T-bird taillight assemblies--for the '68 GT350 and GT500. But it was Classic Design Concepts that brought the, uh, design concept to the mainstream, making sequential adapter kits for every Mustang variation since 1994. We kinda figured it wouldn't take CDC long to whip up a version for the new Mustang, and for once we weren't wrong.
CDC's 2005 Dynamite Stick...
CDC's 2005 Dynamite Stick Sequentials kit consists of two near plug-and-play harnesses, one each for the left and right taillight assemblies. They're not entirely "plug and play" simply because one additional wire must be run to the innermost bulb on each assembly. Even so, installation is a breeze.
Coming up with the 2005 "Dynamite Stick" sequentials was more of a challenge than you might think, however, since the S197's method of signal/flasher control is a radical departure from past practice. Whereas every previous Mustang used some form of flasher module to oversee turn-signal function, on the '05 this is just one more duty of the all-knowing, all-seeing Spanish Oak processor, requiring a whole new electrical approach to making the sequentials work. The good news is, we don't have to care about the hurdles CDC had to clear to make these things work; we just have to enjoy two particular benefits. First, the purchase process no longer requires shipping your old taillights to CDC as cores, and second, turn-signal interval is no longer slowed by the sequential operation. There is no bad news.
CDC's Dynamite Stick sequential kit is not much more complicated than a pair of electronic-module-equipped harnesses to be plugged inline between each taillight assembly and its chassis wiring harness. We say "not much more complicated" because there is a single lead to be run to the innermost bulb on each side's lamp assembly. This step is necessary, as this inner bulb is not used for brake or turn-signal function in the factory scheme of things. But don't sweat it; explaining this procedure probably takes longer than performing it, so let's get on with a look at the kit and its installation.
 To get at the taillight assemblies,...  To get at the taillight assemblies, the trunk's rear plastic trim panel must come off. The first step is to remove four pushpin retainers from near the latch. Two are on top, and the other two are on the trunk side of the panel, a little farther outboard. In each case, lifting the center pin unlocks and allows removal of the retainers. |  Use a T-30 Torx bit to remove...  Use a T-30 Torx bit to remove one plastic screw from directly behind each taillight. The plastic trim panel can then be removed. Incidentally, it's not necessary to remove the Shaker 1000 subwoofers, on cars so equipped, to get the panel off. |  Each taillight assembly is...  Each taillight assembly is secured through the trunk sheetmetal via a trio of studs. Remove the 11mm nuts from these studs. |
 In order to facilitate removal...  In order to facilitate removal of each taillight assembly from the car, unplug its electrical harness and carefully push the harness' rubber grommet out through this hole in the trunk sheetmetal. |  With the taillight assembly...  With the taillight assembly resting on a surface that won't scratch the lens, use an awl or other sharp object to punch a small hole through the harness rubber grommet. |  Feed the single black wire...  Feed the single black wire from one of the Dynamite Stick sequential harnesses through this hole (the harnesses are not side-specific). |
 Twist the inboard bulb socket...  Twist the inboard bulb socket out of the assembly (this is the only one of the three bulbs having just two wires into it), and carefully pry out its blue grommet. |  Slice the grommet to accommodate...  Slice the grommet to accommodate the black wire from the Dynamite Stick. |  Insert the black wire's terminal...  Insert the black wire's terminal into the empty position in the lamp socket. The terminal's tab will lock into place. This makes it possible for the inboard bulb's second filament to illuminate on turn-signal or brake application, same as the middle and outboard bulbs. Although the three bulbs are identical, on the factory wiring scheme this inboard bulb is used only for headlight/parking-light function via its low-wattage filament. |
 Reinsert the blue grommet...  Reinsert the blue grommet into the lamp socket, separating the wires, and twist the socket back into the lamp assembly. |  Now plug the female end of...  Now plug the female end of the Dynamite Stick harness into the lamp assembly. If you're the organized type, CDC suggests taping the black wire to the factory wire harness. |  Feed the extended harness...  Feed the extended harness back through the hole in the trunk sheetmetal as you reinstall the taillight assembly, and plug the male Dynamite Stick connector into the vehicle harness as shown. Repeat for the other taillight. Test the sequential operation before reinstalling the trunk trim panel, which will completely hide the sequential harnesses. Now go out and show off. |