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How to Correct BumpsteerAs we found out, bumpsteer can be a serious problem on some modified vintage Mustangs. Here's how to fix it. From the February, 2006 issue of Mustang Monthly All contributors: Miles Cook
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Pro-Motorsports makes bumpsteer... Pro-Motorsports makes bumpsteer corrector kits in three applications for vintage Mustangs, including '65-'66, '67-'69, and '70-'73 cars. The main spacer and stirrup clamp are made of quenched and tempered 4140 chrome-moly steel, means these pieces are essentially indestructible. All the specialized hardware shown is included. Note the block at the upper left is assembled for one side, while the other disassembled parts are the setup for the other side. According to Pro-Motorsports Engineering, manufacturers of the bumpsteer corrector kit we installed here, bumpsteer is a front-suspension design flaw of every vintage Mustang. On a car with a mostly stock front-suspension, the problem might not be as apparent, and our experience has proven this difference to be true. How do we know? Well, our tried-and-true '69 fastback project car has once again been the basis for our research. When we first bought the car in early 2003, it had a stock front suspension that worked adequately but could certainly benefit from a thorough rebuild. One of the first things we did was install all-new pieces from Mustangs Plus' line of Grab-a-Trak components. At that point, the car drove well, handled with considerably more composure than before, and generally felt much safer at highway speeds. Next on the agenda was the installation of a Flaming River (FR) rack-and-pinion steering system. Flaming River's excellent cradle-mounting system and solid-feel, fast-ratio rack was a step up in steering-feel and overall competence. However, by no fault of Flaming River, our car was a true oddball application with its 351W engine, four-speed clutch linkage, and JBA "mid-length" header flanges that are quite close to the steering-system's mid-shaft U-joint. In short, our car isn't your average 289-with-stock-manifolds-and-an-automatic-transmission combination. Nonetheless, Flaming River came up with a cradle--now a production part--that allows the rack to fit. The plot thickened when, for our Nov. '05 issue, we installed Blue Moon upper and lower control arms, which put us in a situation where the arms' modified geometry combined with the Flaming River steering rack's relatively low mounting point caused horrendous bumpsteer (see sidebar). Again, as with the Flaming River rack, this was not something that could be blamed on the Blue Moon parts. In fact, the control arms are about the most bulletproof suspension parts we've seen--seemingly built like bridge girders. 1 Installing the Pro-Motorsports... 1 Installing the Pro-Motorsports kits is easy considering the improvement. It can easily be done by the average do-it-yourselfer. However, a good suspension shop, such as Marlo's Frame, can do it and also set the proper toe-in (about 1/16-inch). With the car in the air and the wheels off, remove the cotter pin that holds the castle nut in place. Along with the low-slung rack and the updated-geometry control arms, we also had a lower-than-stock ride height, which made the bumpsteer even worse. In short, our setup had the car all over the road when going over bumps, dips, potholes, and high-speed undulations. So we got back in touch with Flaming River's technical department. Much to their credit, they mentioned that other customers had the same problem on their lowered cars. Note that we said "some," because not every FR rack-and-pinion setup mounts to a vintage Mustang in the exact same location, and not every car has a lower ride height that worsens bumpsteer. After sending a few pictures to Flaming River showing the position of the tie-rods and how they angled up too much, the diagnosis was a serious case of bumpsteer. Flaming River immediately recommended Pro-Motorsports' corrector kit and told us that several customers had installed the same system with dramatic improvement. So after a trip to our local vintage Mustang front-suspension experts at Marlo's Frame and Alignment, we installed the Pro-Motorsports kit and achieved the improved result. The car now goes straight as an arrow over all high-speed dips--something that's important to us as high-speed freeway road trips are common in this car. Bumps and potholes aren't nearly as scary as when the steering wheel was almost yanked out of our hands. Finally, note that the Pro-Motorsports' kit is available from Mustangs Plus. What is bumpsteer? As we learned the hard way, bumpsteer is a condition you want to avoid. In fact, for a car to drive and feel right, it needs to be eliminated totally. Generally, bumpsteer is caused by an incompatibility between the steering system's tie rods and the front suspension's upper and lower control arms. As the suspension cycles, the path or arc followed by the outer tie rods in relation to the control arms and spindles are different. Since something has to give, there is a toe change (the wheels toe in or out) as the suspension moves up and down. This occurs every time the suspension moves. While bumpsteer is a factory design flaw every Mustang has to varying degrees, it becomes noticeable when the car is lowered or modified with other suspension improvements that make the car more responsive to steering input. Better tires also make bumpsteer more noticeable. When experienced, the car twitches or darts around on bumpy or undulating roads and can also be twitchy on heavy braking. The car might also pull to one side or another when braking. Bumpsteer is eliminated from a Mustang by ensuring the tie-rod (steering linkage) pivot point matches the travel of the spindle. Match these curves by either raising the inner tie rod or lowering the outer tie-rod mounting point. Since the location of the inner tie rods and steering center link is under the oil pan, this option isn't practical. Fabrication of a spacer block to relocate and lower the outer tie-rod from its location on the spindle is easy. The Pro-Motorsports' bumpsteer corrector kit accomplishes exactly that. It repositions the outer tie rod 1-inch lower, 1-inch forward, and 1/4-inch outboard from its stock location. The 1-inch drop is for the bumpsteer, the 1-inch forward move quickens the steering the same way the longer idler and Pitman arms did on '65 Shelbys, and the 1/4-inch outboard move reduces (but doesn't eliminate) the Ackermann Angle, a toe-out condition that is designed to occur during turning. While helpful for street cars driven at low speeds, it's less desirable in racing or high-performance situations where high lateral cornering loads are present.  2 Next, loosen (but don't...  2 Next, loosen (but don't totally remove) the castle nut and separate the tie-rod end from the spindle by hitting the spindle arm with a heavy hammer. The idea is to "shock" the spindle and tie-rod end apart, which is more effective than trying to force them apart with a pickle fork or tie-rod splitter. Once the tie-rod end's stud drops through the spindle arm, remove the castle nut all the way and the tie-rod end will then easily separate from the spindle.  3 To prepare the spacer for...  3 To prepare the spacer for installation, install the large socket-head (Allen) cap screw and chamfered washer into the bottom (counterbore side) of the spacer block; this has already been done here. The block is then set into place on the tie-rod end as shown.  4 As shown here, be sure...  4 As shown here, be sure the slot in the spacer block is parallel with the cotter-pin hole in the tie-rod-end stud so the cotter pin can be reinstalled. Next, reinstall the castle nut to secure the block in place on the tie-rod end. Here, the nut on the large screw keeps it in place while the spacer is installed on the tie-rod end; it's removed once the spacer is installed.  5 Secure the tie-rod nut...  5 Secure the tie-rod nut into place. Marlo's Frame found that a 11/8-inch wrench worked perfectly for holding the spacer block while tightening the tie-rod nut. Make sure the tie rod is tight and cannot move in the tapered hole. The nut should be tightened to a minimum of 30 lbs-ft.  6 Before final assembly,...  6 Before final assembly, a fit check is required to confirm the clearance between the tie-rod stud coming through the spacer and the bottom of the spindle arm. As the Pro-Motorsports' instructions say, trimming the tie-rod stud might be required, and was in our case. Here, we're showing the stud being trimmed. Note the cotter pin has also been reinstalled.  7 Trim up to two threads...  7 Trim up to two threads from the tie-rod stud to gain adequate clearance from the spindle arm. Slightly more might be necessary, but whatever the case, be careful not to take too much of the stud away and thus cut into the cotter-pin hole.  8 On our car, we also had...  8 On our car, we also had to enlarge the holes in the spindle arm to accept the new larger cap screws that come with the bumpsteer kit. Drill out the hole with a bit that's slightly larger than the hole in the spindle arm. You may or may not need to do the same with other cars. We only had to enlarge the holes a small amount.  9 With the tie-rod stud adequately...  9 With the tie-rod stud adequately trimmed, the spacer can be installed onto the spindle. Double check your trim work: It's imperative that the tie-rod stud doesn't come in contact with the spindle arm.  10 Install a nut onto the...  10 Install a nut onto the large cap screw to hold the spacer block in place. The large washer between the spacer and spindle arm lowers the tie rod a slight bit more, which helped out even more in our application. Marlo's Frame then added another washer to go between the top of the spindle arm and the nut as shown.  11 Securely tighten the large...  11 Securely tighten the large cap screw, which snugs the spindle and spacer block together. A large Allen wrench and closed-end wrench work for now, but this nut and bolt need to be torqued to spec with a torque wrench, which we'll do later.  12 We're ready to install...  12 We're ready to install the stirrup clamp, which fits right over the spindle arm and down onto the spacer block. Set it into place as shown here ...  13 ... and install the supplied...  13 ... and install the supplied bolt, washers, and nut. As with the tie-rod stud, the spindle arm may need trimmed to allow the clamp to fit completely over the arm. We didn't have to in our case, but if you do, grind or file the spindle arm to obtain the proper fit.  14 If trimming is required,...  14 If trimming is required, the strap should be centered evenly around the spindle arm as shown. Tighten the strap nut and bolt securely with wrenches, then use a torque wrench to final tighten them to 40 lbs-ft. Next, install the set screw and accompanying jam nut that help hold the stirrup clamp in place. Securely tighten the set screw as shown here, then secure the jam nut in place once the set screw is tight.  15 As mentioned in step 11,...  15 As mentioned in step 11, the main cap screw that keeps the spacer block attached to the spindle arm needs to be torqued to spec with a torque wrench. On '65-'69 cars with 7/16-inch bolts, torque the nut to 75 lbs-ft; on '70-'73s with 1/2-inch bolts, go to 100 lbs-ft.  16 Install and tighten the...  16 Install and tighten the jam nut after the nut below it is torqued to 75 or 100 lbs-ft. The jam nut should be torqued to 30 lbs-ft.  17 Here's the installed spacer...  17 Here's the installed spacer block, stirrup strap, and all related hardware. Note the sufficient clearance between the tie-rod stud and the bottom of the steering arm after trimming the stud, as well as adequate room for the cotter pin to fit underneath the spindle arm.  18 In short, the spacer block...  18 In short, the spacer block "lowers" the tie-rod end so it's more in line with the lower control arm. Looking here, the angle of the tie rod and lower control arm are almost identical, thus eliminating bumpsteer. Bumpsteer can vary from one car to another and our car was the worst we've ever experienced. Now it's as good or better than any other vintage Mustangs we've driven.
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