How To Install Power Front Disc Brakes

19 Back under the hood, the old master cylinder is easily removed by taking out the two bolts that hold it in place.

20 Carefully pull it away from the firewall while at the same time threading the pushrod out. Note also the stock junction block and brake lines coming out with the non-power master cylinder.

21 Back under the dash, there's another cotter pin that needs to be removed. This one holds the brake pedal in place, and once it's out, the brake pedal can be removed. On manual transmission cars, the clutch pedal also has to be removed to separate it from the brake pedal.

22 Once the cotter pin is removed, the pedal shaft and brake pedal will come out as shown.

23 When upgrading to power brakes, replace the brake pedal with the supplied power-brake pedal. Due to the power-assist supplied by the booster, the power-brake pedal on the left is considerably longer and mounts to the pedal support higher up to provide less leverage. If a car has a manual transmission, the power-brake pedal installs the same way, and the clutch pedal ends up installing to the pedal support separate from the brake pedal.

24 Here are both manual- and power-brake pedal attachments to illustrate how they install differently. While the power-brake pedal mounts higher onto the pedal support, it hangs down from the support the same distance to the car's floor due to its longer length.

25 In a supplied diagram, Master Power's instructions say to remove three of the four clinch nuts attached to the pedal support. This requires removal of the pedal support so the clinch nuts can be drilled out, which is shown here. The threaded clinch nuts must be removed so that separate nuts can be fitted to the studs attached to the new power-brake booster. These studs pass through the firewall and pedal support. To gain enough access to remove the pedal support, the steering column must be removed. To do this, we removed the four nuts on the firewall and the two nuts that hold it to the dashboard and unplugged the wiring harness. With the steering box's one-piece shaft still in place (later cars don't have a shaft in the way because the collapsible column and shaft come out together), undo the four bolts that hold the pedal support, and remove it past the steering shaft.

26 With the pedal support in a vice, the Mustang Country techs grind the clinch nuts down in preparation to knock them out.

27 Once the nuts are partially ground down, they are easily knocked out of the pedal support with a few good hits of a hammer and a punch.