Electric-Life power windows...
Electric-Life power windows are high-torque, short-duration motor drives that move old windows quickly and effectively. These units bolt in, replacing the factory window regulators with a minimum of fuss. Each motor drive is equipped with moisture-tight connectors and leads.
Imagine motoring up to your favorite cruising spot and effortlessly rolling down your windows. Power windows are an easy classic-Mustang upgrade you can install in a day, taking the grunt work out of cranking those old manual windows. Electric-Life power windows from National Parts Depot are designed to bolt in to replace your Mustang's manual roll-up windows.
To install power windows, you need to prepare. Consider replacing door weatherstripping, window channels, and other soft parts while you're at it. Hit your local AutoZone or Pep Boys for tools of the electrical trade; butt connectors, bullet plugs, wire crimpers, a soldering gun, solder, heat-shrink tubing, flexible rubber or plastic conduit, attachment hardware that isn't included in the kit, sheetmetal cutting tools, a die grinder, 3M's strip caulk or other flexible sealer, water shields, and more.
So let's get started. During this exercise, we learned the hard way what we shouldn't take apart. For example, we undid the aft window track only to discover it wasn't necessary. One downside to the Electric-Life window kit is the instructions aren't detailed enough for those of us with two left hands. Outside of that, the kit is easy to install and operate.
Wiring can be confusing and intimidating. Power windows get power from one source that's energized when the ignition switch is on or in accessory mode. Power can come from the ignition switch or an accessory female pigtail lead that's energized when the ignition is on. We discourage using a power source that is live all the time.
Safety First
It takes a lot of power to run window glass up and down inside a vintage Mustang door. A powerful short-duration, shunt-wound series motor and gear drive makes it possible, but keep safety in mind during installation. Keep your hands, fingers, and arms out of harm's way inside the door whenever testing and whenever the battery is connected. Electric Life power window mechanisms (and any power window mechanism, for that matter) have enough power to damage fingers, hands, and arms. Because these mechanisms move quickly, it takes just a second for an accident to happen. Remember, safety first: Protect your hands and arms during testing, and cover your eyes and ears during grinding and cutting.
There are a variety of power...
There are a variety of power window switches available for classic Mustangs. Electric-Life sent us two types; billet and GM chrome. The billet switches are easier to install than the GM switches.
However, we chose the GM switch...
However, we chose the GM switch for its period look--ideal for those of you interested in a more conservative appearance. The downside to GM switches is fit and reliability. They aren't reliable and must be cut to mount on the doors. Billet switches are less invasive and more reliable.
1 To install power windows,...
1 To install power windows, first remove the manual regulators; then remove the door panels and water shields. Take off the armrests using a 3/8-inch-deep well socket; then remove the door handles using a Phillips screwdriver.
2 Door panels are retained...
2 Door panels are retained with spring clips. Wrap the screwdriver shaft with cloth, and pop the clips out of the holes in the door sheetmetal. Don't be careless or hurry or you'll damage the door panel and door.
3 This is the manual window...
3 This is the manual window regulator. Ironically, it's the original regulator in this San Jose-built '68 Mustang hardtop. A simple scissor mechanism driven by a hand-cranked gear system, the window crank turns a small gear that drives a large 1/4 gear.
4 Support the window glass...
4 Support the window glass in the up position but not completely topped out. Remove the two idler track bolts and four window regulator bolts.
5 You can take one of two...
5 You can take one of two approaches to this installation. The aft track can be disconnected from the window, which frees the regulator.
6 This takes a little time,...
6 This takes a little time, but it's not hard to accomplish.
7 Another approach, which...
7 Another approach, which you will have to do either way, involves removing three window track screws. Lower the window glass so that all three screws are accessible. However, these fine-thread, countersunk Phillips screws were originally installed with an impact tool and are nearly impossible to remove, stripping out easily.
8 Do it correctly or you'll...
8 Do it correctly or you'll damage the screw head. If you strip out the screw head, you are, well, "screwed" and will have to drill it out.
9 Our screw head was damaged...
9 Our screw head was damaged from a previous removal attempt. We drilled the head out with a 5/16-inch bit and removed the track.
10 Electric-Life's power...
10 Electric-Life's power assembly fits in place of the factory regulator. The top track attaches to the window with three fine-thread, countersunk machine screws. These Grade 8, super-hard machine screws can be found at Lowes or Home Depot.
11 Before installation, insert...
11 Before installation, insert the weather-tight plug. This plug is difficult to install once inside the door. Power comes from the Mustang's accessory circuit through any one of the female accessory plugs near the fuse box under the dash. Power windows must be protected with a 15-amp circuit breaker as fuses tend to blow due to the short-term amp draw of power windows.
12 The power unit installs...
12 The power unit installs as shown. Make sure the window is in the up position...
...for ease of installation....
...for ease of installation. Four 10mm bolts retain the power unit.
13 To install GM switches,...
13 To install GM switches, cut both the door and door panel. Because we're going with a gang-switch setup on the driver's door, we cut an opening sized to the switch retainer plate. Based on our experiences, we don't recommend the GM switch unless you intend to build a custom console, and you'll still have to cut sheetmetal somewhere.
14 Getting power to the motor...
14 Getting power to the motor calls for drilling in two locations: at the door-hinge boss and the A-pillar. Find the Ford dimple at the door-hinge boss and A-pillar, and drill a 5/8-inch hole for the wire harness passage. The size depends on the size conduit you use. With door courtesy-light models, run conduit where Ford did.
15 Gang switches tie into...
15 Gang switches tie into a main harness that feeds all four window locations.
16 After cutting the opening...
16 After cutting the opening with a nibbler, clean the surfaces with a die grinder.
17 Our GM gang switch is...
17 Our GM gang switch is checked for fit. The retainer clips must fit smoothly, but don't make it so that the switch is impossible to replace.
18 Wind lace is installed...
18 Wind lace is installed along the bottom to protect wires from chaffing.
19 The Electric-Life power-window...
19 The Electric-Life power-window track is tied to the window using fine-thread machine screws. They must be countersunk to clear the rollers. Use a thread locker on these screws. Another important issue is wire clearances. Secure the wiring inside flexible conduit, and tie it ahead of the wing-window assembly and away from the window channel. This keeps the wiring out of harm's way.
20 Remove the rear-seat....
20 Remove the rear-seat...
...and quarter-trim panels...
...and quarter-trim panels for access to the rear quarter-windows.
21 Installing power rear...
21 Installing power rear quarter-windows is a cakewalk. Remove three bolts to remove the regulator.
22 Electric Life's rear quarter-window...
22 Electric Life's rear quarter-window power assembly installs the same as the front. Get the roller into the window track and secure the regulator. As with the front windows, secure the wiring harness, moving it out of the window's path.
23 Take out two more bolts...
23 Take out two more bolts to remove the idler track down below. Slide the regulator out of the tracks; it comes out through the bottom opening.
24 The idler track installs...
24 The idler track installs like this inside the window cavity, dogleg down and fore as shown. Lubricate all tracks with white grease; wrap the wiring inside flexible conduit.
25 If you're going to operate...
25 If you're going to operate the rear quarter-windows from the rear seat, cut both car and quarter-trim panels.
26 If you'd rather not do...
26 If you'd rather not do that, maintain control from the driver-seat gang switches. Another option is a custom console with rear-seat switches.
27 Rear-seat quarter-window...
27 Rear-seat quarter-window harnesses look like this with GM switches. Electric Life billet switches are simpler with less complicated wiring. In any case, make sure all wiring clears the windows.
28 This is the schematic...
28 This is the schematic for the GM switches. This particular wiring diagram is set up for a console-mounted driver's gang switch. All motors have blue and black leads. The trick is getting each lead properly connected to the harness. If they are installed reversed, the switches will work backwards.