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Classic Ford Mustang Restoration Improvements - Street Survival GuideHere's How To Live With (And Enjoy) Your Mustang On The Street From the November, 2006 issue of Mustang Monthly All contributors: Jim Smart
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Those of us who grew up with classic Mustangs remember them when they weren't collectibles. They were just new Mustangs that quickly became the old Mustangs we snapped up for a couple hundred bucks in the newspaper classifieds. We didn't consider them classics, at least not in the '70s when they were scarcely ten years old. For many of us, Mustangs are like marriage: We take the good with the bad. We're passionate about our Mustangs, but we dread having to deal with the "finer" points of owning them. The restomod movement has made great contributions to classic Mustangs because it provides improved technology to make our vintage Mustangs safer, more comfortable, and great fun to drive. Many restomod components, like four-wheel disc brakes and brighter LED lighting, make our Mustangs safer and more reliable on the highway. In this Street Survival Guide, we're aiming to help you enjoy your Mustang on the street. Disc Brakes
Front disc brakes are mandatory to shorten stopping distances. If you want to keep your Mustang period-correct in appearance, look to Stainless Steel Brakes for dead-stock, four-piston front disc brakes that won't detract from a factory appearance. Those with six-cylinder Mustangs don't have to do without disc brakes because SSBC has front disc-brake conversion kits for six-poppers as well. Another terrific idea for six-cylinder Mustangs is upgrading to five-lug wheels and heavy-duty spindles in the interest of safety. Cop a pair of spindles from a '70-'73 Mustang, '70-'77 Maverick or Comet, or '75-'80 Granada or Monarch. Six-cylinder front spindles are weak by nature and can break, especially in hard cornering. With the five-lug front underpinnings comes the need for an 8-inch rearend and larger rear drum brakes in back to improve safety and reliability. To keep a 711/44-inch integral-carrier rearend, have the axle flanges drilled by a machine shop for a five-lug bolt pattern. When original front disc brakes aren't enough, there are lots of aftermarket braking systems to choose from. In the interest of sanity, opt for a bolt-on aftermarket system. SSBC's Force 10 system is a good example, as are most of the systems from Baer Brakes. Master Power also has easy-to-install disc-brake conversion kits that get the job done without other modifications. Convert your '65-'66 Mustang to a dual braking system in the interest of safety. Dual braking systems became federally mandated in 1967. A dual braking system isolates front and rear brake hydraulic systems to ensure braking should one of the systems fail.  SSBC's Force 10 disc brakes...  SSBC's Force 10 disc brakes are a nice upgrade for improved stopping power and great looks through the spokes. Fit them on the front, or install them in all four corners.  This is a dual-reservoir master...  This is a dual-reservoir master cylinder for dual braking systems. It isolates front- and rear-brake hydraulic systems to keep your brakes operational should one fail. Unless you are building a concours-original '65-'66 Mustang, install a dual-braking system.  If you drive a six-cylinder...  If you drive a six-cylinder Mustang, then think about V-8 spindles and a five-bolt lug pattern for added safety. Six-cylinder spindles are wimpy and tend to break, especially after 40 years of use. Five-lug patterns open up your wheel options, too. Have a machine shop drill those 711/44 shafts for five-lug or replace them with an 8-inch removable carrier axle. Handle It
Off the assembly line, classic Mustangs didn't handle worth a flip. This was due to soft springs, wimpy dampening, and not enough tire contact patch. The aftermarket industry has brought us all kinds of suspension systems and parts designed to improve handling. The tire and wheel industry has brought us even more. Each is designed to make our lives safer and driving a whole lot more fun Before your Mustang can handle, it must have solid tire contact patch, or all the heavy-duty suspension in the world won't keep you on course. Tire contact patch can be had with 70-series radial tires, which are available in a variety of sidewall types. Adding tire width, such as 60- or 50-series radial tires on a Mach 1, makes things better. The new Firestone Firehawk radial tire is available for Mach 1 and Boss Mustangs, yielding the same raised-white-letter look we remember from 1970, plus great handling to boot.  Your first line of defense...  Your first line of defense in the handling department is tire contact patch. Great handling doesn't have to come from super-wide radial tires, either. Good old-fashioned 70-series radial tires with water channels are effective if you want a period look. Coker Tire has a variety of redline and whitewall 70- and 78-series radial tires available that improve handling and keep a nostalgic demeanor.  Spring selection affects ride...  Spring selection affects ride quality, handling, and ride height, and your priorities determine which spring is right for your application. Ride quality is more affected by shock selection.  Body roll depends on sway-bar...  Body roll depends on sway-bar selection and ride height. A 1-inch front sway bar with polyurethane bushings vastly improves roll. Use polyurethane bushings on strut rods and sway bars. Rock-hard urethane bushings make noise and tend to break suspension components. Rubber and poly are best for street use. Once you have tire selection resolved, your next course of action is the mechanics of handling; springs, shocks, and bushings. Choosing springs and shocks isn't always easy because it involves handling, ride quality, and vehicle height. To get handling, you may have to give up ride quality; to get ride quality, you might have to sacrifice handling. With the right suspension tuning, you can achieve a nice combination of the three. Shock and spring combinations affect ride quality and handling. Five-leaf mid-eye springs in back give you proper ride height and better handling. Which shock you use greatly affects ride quality. KYB gas shocks, for example, will give you a stiff ride. So will Koni adjustables, depending on the setting. So shock selection is everything when it comes to ride quality. Using regular gas shocks with five-leaf mid-eye springs and 620-pound coils in front will give you a smooth ride as well as better handling. Ride height affects handling, too. The lower the ride, the lower your Mustang's center of gravity, which improves handling. The important thing to remember about ride height is driving logistics. Can you get over speed bumps? Can you roll through a dip in the road without smashing headers or whacking the valance panel?  People miss this one all the...  People miss this one all the time. When installing a new front suspension, don't forget 90-degree grease jerks on upper control-arm bushings. Factory lubrication isn't enough.  Shock selection is everything...  Shock selection is everything when it comes to ride quality and handling. A shock absorber's job is to dampen road shock by controlling the rate of spring movement. KYB gas shocks, for example, are stiff because they're designed for handling. For good ride quality and street handling, seek a regular heavy-duty gas shock with 620 coils and five-leaf springs.  One of the most neglected...  One of the most neglected areas is brake hydraulics. Replace brake hoses every five years, as well as the master cylinder, brake calipers, and wheel cylinders. Flush and bleed the brake system every two years, just like you do the cooling system. Brake fluid absorbs air and moisture just sitting in your garage. Always begin with new fluid. The sway bar, as its name implies, reduces body roll in the corners. The 1-inch front sway bar is a terrific handling improvement over the stock spaghetti string. Hand-in-hand with sway bars are bushings. Urethane bushings improve handling dramatically, but there are compromises. Urethane bushings create noise and a stiffer ride. Rubber bushings take up more road shock and absorb noise. We recommend polyurethane bushings for a nice compromise between brick-hard urethane and soft rubber. Total Control and Global West offer articulating ball/socket strut rods, which afford you the best of all worlds: handling and smooth operation. Rear sway bars are rarely necessary for street use. Although they do improve body roll, they get in the way of exhaust system installation. If that doesn't bother you, install a rear sway bar. Some rear sway bars are more user-friendly than others.  Sway Bar Noisy? We learned...  Sway Bar Noisy?
We learned this one from JMC Motorsports in San Diego. Urethane bushings can get downright noisy. JMC suggests wrapping the sway bar with Teflon tape at the bushing, which yields freedom of movement without noise.  Traction Bars Traction bars...  Traction Bars
Traction bars have always been a wild and crazy bolt-on for those who like to hook up. Who can forget those bright-yellow Lakewood traction bars of the '70s? They're still with us, and you can get yours from Summit Racing Equipment. But what if you desire a softer, quieter approach to traction? You have a couple of options. Shelby-style underride traction bars are available from Mustangs Plus for those who want invisible traction devices. These bars help you hook up at the light when morning commutes become more competitive.  Belt One On Accessory drivebelts...  Belt One On
Accessory drivebelts are crucial. Without them, batteries die and engines overheat. Although a lot of us like the original equipment look of reproduction belts, they aren't the best choice for your street-survival arsenal. Belt technology has improved significantly over the past 40 years.Serpentine belts first appeared on the '79 Mustang, and the idea has gotten better with time. You can retrofit your classic Mustang with a serpentine-beltdrive package or find a way to improve the original idea. V-belt technology has also improved significantly in the past few years. Gates, for example, offers conventional V-belts, which have the same benefits as reproduction belts.If you want to improve performance and reliability, try the Gates Polyflex JB belt, which is ribbed for better performance. Ribs increase surface area and get rid of heat better. Gates also offers the Automotive XL belt design, also ribbed. These ribbed belts, although not original in appearance, provide better performance and last longer if you keep them properly adjusted.  Single Wire, Greater Reliability...  Single Wire, Greater Reliability
Vintage Mustang charging systems suffer from many potential problems that can leave you stranded. That external voltage regulator is one of them, especially if it's mechanical. Solid-state regulators help, but they don't eliminate the issue of having too many components in a charging system. Single-wire, high-amperage alternators employ an internal voltage regulator that's easy to service and replace. What's more, there's more power available to support high electrical demands such as a sound system and power windows.The Mr. Amp 100-amp alternator from Performance Distributors provides all the great benefits of a high-amp, single-wire alternator and keeps a decidedly original appearance in the process. Performance Distributors also has Autolite and Motorcraft single-wire, internally-regulated alternators for classic Mustangs. The beauty of both is you can keep the external voltage regulator in place for an original look. The single-wire system completely bypasses the stock regulator without disconnecting anything.  What about A/C? Classic-Mustang...  What about A/C?
Classic-Mustang owners are faced with the decision of which refrigerant to use in the air-conditioning system. Systems before '92-'93 had R-12 refrigerant, which the Environmental Protection Agency outlawed ten years ago. This forced us to rely on remaining supplies to service our older Mustangs, so it's scarce and more expensive.There are a lot of substitute refrigerants out there to replace R-12, but they all have disadvantages. R-134a, which became available in 1993, has become the mainstream refrigerant for new and used cars. It doesn't cool as well, and it runs higher head pressures, putting additional stress on automotive A/C systems. However, many of the other substitutes have a certain amount of R-134a in them. So it makes more sense to simply convert to R-134a, which should be done by a qualified air-conditioning specialist.We suggest a larger condenser in front to make the most of your R-134a charge. Your system must be completely flushed clean of R-12 and R-12 oil. If your compressor is marginal, we suggest a new one designed for R-134a refrigerant.  Put the Sport In Sporty Classic-Mustang...  Put the Sport In Sporty
Classic-Mustang bucket seats are known for discomfort. Those hard thrones cut off the circulation in your bottom and don't do much for your back either. TMI Products and Mustangs Plus have a solution, not only for the discomfort, but to remedy mediocre appearance as well. It's called the Sport Seat, a transformation seat kit that bolsters the bottom and rounds out the back. All you need is a Sport Seat kit and a good upholsterer. Regardless of what kind of upholstery you're using, fill out the foam with padding to make your seats more comfortable.  Broomstick In A Barrel Sloppy...  Broomstick In A Barrel
Sloppy shifters not only feel awful, they can leave you stranded whether they're manual or automatic. Getting factory shifters to work like new is easy and takes about an hour. Manual factory shifters need a simple rebuild kit from Scott Drake. Pull the shifter boot, then remove the shifter handle. Clean the handle base, and install new cups, springs, and white grease. You're back in business.  Ditch The Points The Ignitor,...  Ditch The Points
The Ignitor, by PerTronix, was the first no-brainer electronic-ignition retrofit for vintage Autolite, Motorcraft, and even some aftermarket distributors. This fiercely reliable ignition system, small enough to hold in your hand, installs in 30 minutes and lasts virtually forever. Switch to electronic ignition for reliable service, improved idle, and better fuel economy.  Should The Unthinkable Happen...  Should The Unthinkable Happen ...
It's no mystery why vintage-Mustang fuel tanks are a safety hazard. Because the fuel tank is also the trunk floor for '65-'70 models, the integrity in a rear-end collision is always a concern. Look to three potential forms of safety equipment to help you out.Fuel Safe fuel cells, available from Mustangs Plus, are one solution, although costly at around $900 for a Mustang-specific fuel cell, but they are designed to keep you safe in a rear-end collision.If you retain the original tank, then opt for Tank Armor and the rear-seat barrier. Tank Armor, available from Autoworks International, is a thick, heavy stainless steel plate designed to bolt over the Mustang fuel tank to protect the tank from heavy items. It also helps keep fuel contained in a collision, although this cannot be guaranteed even with a Fuel Safe cell.The rear-seat barrier from American Pony helps shut out road noise and keeps fuel out of the passenger compartment in a rear-end collision. These are mandatory safety items when driving a classic Mustang every day.  Stick-on and spray-on sound-deadening...  Stick-on and spray-on sound-deadening materials take the harmonics out of Mustang bodies. Begin with the floorpans, and apply it inside the doors to take out the echo. Install a fresh firewall pad, being mindful that '65-'66s are different than later Mustangs.  Weatherstripping not only...  Weatherstripping not only keeps out moisture, dust, and wind, it keeps slipstream noise out as well. Install it properly, then adjust and tighten the windows and doors.  Power-steering hoses contain...  Power-steering hoses contain great pressures that rely on solid seating and torque. Nicked seats will leak no matter how tight you get the fitting. Overtighten and you risk damaging the line and still get the leak. Whenever you buy a remanufactured control valve or steering ram, inspect the seats. They must be perfect: no scores, nicks, or dirt. Power-steering hoses must also be installed properly, just as the factory installed them, with freedom to move without chaffing or binding.  Four-blade fans should be...  Four-blade fans should be replaced with multi-blade flex or clutch fans for maximum cooling. This setup, a four-blade steel fan inside a shroud, does not work effectively. Four-blade fans were never designed for use with a shroud.  High-capacity radiators remove...  High-capacity radiators remove more engine heat, lowering engine temperature. A Griffin aluminum radiator from Mustangs Plus does wonders for heat sink, keeping your engine cooler even in bumper-to-bumper traffic. Four-row core copper and brass radiators are also effective and more stock in appearance. Should The Unthinkable Happen... Should The Unthinkable Happen ...
It's no mystery why vintage-Mustang fuel tanks are a safety hazard. Because the fuel tank is also the trunk floor for '65-'70 models, the integrity in a rear-end collision is always a concern. Look to three potential forms of safety equipment to help you out.Fuel Safe fuel cells, available from Mustangs Plus, are one solution, although costly at around $900 for a Mustang-specific fuel cell, but they are designed to keep you safe in a rear-end collision.If you retain the original tank, then opt for Tank Armor and the rear-seat barrier. Tank Armor, available from Autoworks International, is a thick, heavy stainless steel plate designed to bolt over the Mustang fuel tank to protect the tank from heavy items. It also helps keep fuel contained in a collision, although this cannot be guaranteed even with a Fuel Safe cell.The rear-seat barrier from American Pony helps shut out road noise and keeps fuel out of the passenger compartment in a rear-end collision. These are mandatory safety items when driving a classic Mustang every day. Alignment
Front-end alignment affects handling and tire wear. When you're out there doing the freeway-warrior bit, front-end alignment is especially critical to tire longevity. For daily driving, you want a minimum amount of negative camber for a nice balance of cornering and good tire wear. Negative camber is key to handling, but too much can be hard on tires. Toe is crucial to how your steering wheel will return to center after a turn. Sluggish return is a sign there's neutral toe or a pinch of toe-out. Aggressive return is a sign of too much toe-in. Your front-end alignment specialist will know what's best for your application. Never accept sluggish performance or a Mustang that wanders all over the road, as both are signs of a bad alignment. Silence, Please ...
Automobiles have come a long way in terms of cabin noise thanks to sound-deadening materials and aerodynamics. There's not much you can do about aerodynamics in a classic Mustang, but you can make a huge difference by installing sound-deadening materials and fine-tuning the weatherstripping. When you install the right sound-deadening materials, you eliminate much of the road boom. And when you install new weatherstripping and adjust your doors and windows properly, you eliminate wind and road noise. Stop The Drip
Bendix power steering in '65-'70 Mustangs is notorious for leakage and sloppy performance. It leaks primarily due to misrouted hoses, hoses that are too long or too short, damaged fittings, unserviceable control valves and rams, and distorted pump housings. Many times, power-steering pressure hoses leak because the line fittings aren't tight enough. They also leak due to damaged mating surfaces. Whenever you are building Bendix power steering-or any other type of power steering-closely examine all fittings and mating surfaces. Small nicks at the mating surfaces can bite you because power-steering fluid pressure reaches 1,800 psi (pounds per square inch). Fittings not tightened properly will leak. Damaged mating surfaces, no matter how minute, will leak. Misrouted hoses can chafe and burst, possibly starting a fire. Read your Ford Shop Manual and route power-steering hoses properly. Pay close attention to installation of control-valve pressure hoses. Getting them backwards is dangerous because hydraulic pressure will violently yank the steering wheel right out of your hands. Power-steering pump housings (Ford Thompson pumps only) should be inspected for distortion and potential leakage points. When in doubt, find another housing. Install a new lubricated O-ring, and use power-steering fluid, not automatic-transmission fluid because it has friction modifiers that can harm power-steering system seals. In the steering gear, sector-shaft adjustment is important to stability and driving comfort. Opt for a new or remanufactured steering gear when play cannot be adjusted out. Remain Cool And Calm
Daily drivers need cooling system capacity for all kinds of extremes. At the minimum, your Mustang needs a high-capacity, four-row radiator with plenty of fan. We see some with both engine-driven fans and electric fans; this is overkill and unnecessary. All you need is plenty of cooling capacity, a high-flow water pump and fan, and the four-row core radiator just mentioned. High-flow electric fans get the job done nicely when you have the right one. Getting power to them from the ignition switch isn't hard either. You want an electric fan to be completely automatic: thermostatically controlled and "on" when you turn on the ignition. We suggest the use of a relay and circuit protection via a circuit breaker as well. If you're going to run an engine fan, opt for a thermostatic clutch fan and shroud for maximum cooling. A thermostatic clutch fan engages only as needed, saving fuel and power. The shroud increases air velocity through the radiator. Fan blade tips should always be halfway out of the shroud for best results. And clean the radiator fins periodically. Bug and dirt buildup reduces cooling capacity. Speed Of Light
Install Halogen headlights and replace your headlight switch. Halogen headlights illuminate the road better than conventional sealed beams. Once installed, a headlight alignment is recommended. We suggest headlight-switch replacement every five to seven years because headlight-switch circuit breakers are prone to failure, especially if you drive your Mustang frequently. Dirty and corroded contacts get hot from resistance, causing the circuit breaker to cycle the headlights off and on. A new switch every five to seven years is great prevention.  Not all LED taillight kits...  Not all LED taillight kits are created equal. Choose a broad-panel LED lamp assembly that's bright. Brake lights are useless if no one can see them.  Halogen headlights illuminate...  Halogen headlights illuminate the road much better. Install a set and have them properly aligned.
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