Classic Mustang steering was nothing to write home about even when the cars were new. They may have looked like Mustangs, but they drove like Falcons. Mustang manual steering was and still is a chore, especially with a dinky aftermarket steering wheel. Power-assisted steering remains a nightmare because it leaks and is prone to other failures. However, with the bolt-on rack-and-pinion steering from Randall's Rack and Pinion, you can improve your Mustang's steering without being obvious. Best of all, you can install it in one day and be ready for cruising that night.
What we like most about Randall's rack-and-pinion is the attention to detail and forethought in the design. These guys thought about every aspect of rack-and-pinion in '65-'70 Mustangs and figured out how to ease installation. We were shocked at how easy it was once we took off all the old stuff.
When our Randall's rack arrived,...
When our Randall's rack arrived, everything necessary to complete the job was included. This is a simple power rack available from any auto-parts store. When it wears out, you can get one from Randall's or from a local auto-parts store. We like the exceptional engineering exhibited here: a power rack designed to fit virtually any classic Mustang out there.
Tucson's Laurie Slawson is a Mustang Club of America board member and show judge who also grabbed an MCA Gold with her concours '68 hardtop. A few years ago, she decided to step out and build a Mustang restomod. Laurie wanted a big-block fastback with a "rumpity-rump" demeanor. One of her goals was rack-and-pinion steering, but the challenge was installing it in a big-block car. Not all of them fit. Randall's answered the call with its bolt-on system.
For the installation, Laurie enlisted the help of Jimmy's Broadway Auto-motive in Tucson. Because her 390 had been pulled for a teardown and build-up, it's easier for Jimmy's to complete the conversion while we shoot our photos for this how-to.
To install the Randall's rack, remove the existing steering system: steering gear, idler arm, inner and outer tie-rod ends, and so on. With power steering, also remove the control valve and power ram. In fact, it's a good idea to drain the power-steering system before disassembly begins.
Mustangs from '65-'67 have a long, solid steering shaft to be reckoned with along with the steering gear. Raise the car enough to clear the steering shaft. To get there, remove the steering wheel and column, two locknuts, and a collar, disconnect the turn-signal switch, and loosen the column at the firewall. This frees up the steering gear for removal. On '68-'70 models, disconnect the rag joint at the end of the steering shaft at the gear.
The stock Mustang steering...
The stock Mustang steering column is adapted to the rack with a variety of articulating shafts and universal joints provided by Randall's Rack and Pinion. Count on an easy connection if you have a stock column. Aftermarket columns such as IdidIt or Flaming River require some fabrication work.
Use a factory Eaton or Thompson...
Use a factory Eaton or Thompson power-steering pump or opt for one from Randall's Rack and Pinion. Randall's aluminum pump bolts onto your engine's front dress and is easy to adjust.
Overall steering-column length must be 28 3/8 inches. This is from the top of the column to the top of the shaft assembly provided by Randall's. Carefully place your steering column in a vise, and cut it to size with a saw. Don't use a pipe cutter as a shortcut because that will make it impossible to fit the bearing-supported shaft.
1. First remove the old steering...
1. First remove the old steering linkage. Here, technician Derek Torres begins removal of the vintage Bendix power-steering system, beginning at the control valve. The control valve is tied to the steering gear via the Pitman arm.
2. Derek disconnects the...
2. Derek disconnects the rag joint from the steering gear as shown. Once the rag joint is disconnected, remove the three steering-gear retaining bolts using a 1/2-inch drive-socket wrench with an 11/16-inch socket. For the rag joint, use a 9/16-inch box-end wrench.
3. Derek knocks out the tie-rod...
3. Derek knocks out the tie-rod ends, disconnecting them from each spindle. Don't toss the outer tie-rod ends, as you'll need them. It's a good idea to replace them, especially if they're worn.
4. Two bolts retain the idler...
4. Two bolts retain the idler arm, which ties the steering linkage to the righthand framerail. Then Derek drops the entire steering linkage.
5. To begin the installation...
5. To begin the installation of the Randall's rack, Derek wrestles the rack into place to start the bolts. The Randall's power rack replaces the factory tubular crossmember Ford originally used. It bolts into the crossmember bolt holes with Grade 8 fasteners.
6. Each side bracket ties...
6. Each side bracket ties the rack to the idler-arm and steering-gear locations. Grade 8 bolts provided by Randall's make this a secure installation. Take extra care not to over-torque these bolts.
7. Because the Randall's...
7. Because the Randall's rack replaces the Mustang's factory crossmember, it bolts where the crossmember originally fastened to provide strength and support.
8. Steering tie-rods provided...
8. Steering tie-rods provided by Randall's screw onto the rack as shown. Derek has a special tool for this purpose, however, you can use a large Crescent or open-end metric wrench.
'65-'67 Solid-Shaft Steering Columns
When you're doing a tilt-away or '68-up collapsible steering column, a Randall's conversion is straightforward. For '65-'67 solid-shaft columns, this is a test of fabrication skills. Randall's suggests cutting the steering column as shown to take 3 inches off the tube. The steering shaft has to be cut and machined into a double-D shape to fit to the steering coupling. This mandates a visit to a machine shop. The steering column tube should be 28 3/8 inches from the collar at the steering wheel to the tube end. The accompanying images should give you some idea of what's involved. Detailed instructions come with the Randall's Rack and Pinion system.
9. Randall's provides a billet-aluminum...
9. Randall's provides a billet-aluminum coupler to tie the rack to the Mustang's outer tie-rod end.
10. The Mustang's outer tie-rod...
10. The Mustang's outer tie-rod ends transfer over to the Randall's rack. Don't get them mixed up: left-to-left and right-to-right.
11. In our situation, we...
11. In our situation, we had to shorten the inner tie-rods by 1/2 inch each. What is shown here is closer to 1 inch, which was later changed to 1/2 inch. Shortening the inner tie-rod may be necessary for improved toe adjustment. Do not cut until you are certain it needs to be shortened.
12. One rivet on each side...
12. One rivet on each side secures the inner tie-rod assemblies. Insert it, then depress the pin with a hammer.
13. Dust boots go on each...
13. Dust boots go on each side once the tie-rod installation is complete. These boots keep road dust out of the rack.
14. Rack installation is...
14. Rack installation is complete, shown here from the top side because the engine has been removed for a rebuild. All that's left now is to install the hydraulic hoses for the pressure and return lines to the pump.
A challenge for this installation...
A challenge for this installation was Laurie's IdidIt steering column. It was too long by about 2 inches. Laurie will have to send the column back to IdidIt and have it shortened by 2 inches for smooth operation with the Randall's rack. For stock rag-joint applications, cut the coupling off the shaft and tie it into the constant-velocity package Randall's provides.
Watch Out For This One When...
Watch Out For This One
When we ran down the rack bolts, we found out the hard way about frame cracking. Laurie's '68 fastback had a defect. The internal support (or bridge) inside the rail, which keeps the rail from collapsing during steering-gear and idler-arm installation, fell down inside the rail. When Derek ran the bolts down, the rail cracked. We installed a temporary gusset until we can fix the rail for Laurie. We're convinced the bridge's spot-welds failed, causing it to fall down inside the rail when we removed the steering gear.
Our greatest challenge was...
Our greatest challenge was Laurie's long IdidIt column. The angle, as you can see, is too steep. When the column is shortened 2 inches, it will be a perfect fit.
Here's a quick illustration...
Here's a quick illustration of what's involved with solid-shaft column Mustangs. From the collar to the cut is 28 3/8 inches. The tube is cut at the 28 3/8-inch mark, not the shaft. The shaft is cut longer to reach the adaptor and flexible shaft.
This is the column tube cut...
This is the column tube cut at the 28 3/8-inch mark with the specially modified double-D shaft. A machine shop has to machine the shaft to a double-D shape in order to fit the adaptor.
Here's a look at what a '65-'67...
Here's a look at what a '65-'67 Mustang's solid-shaft should look like once machined.
To safely tie the double-D...
To safely tie the double-D shaft to the flexible coupling, drill a 1/4-inch hole for the roll pin as shown here.
Here's a completed solid-shaft...
Here's a completed solid-shaft column with the flexible shaft installed.
Drill a 1/8-inch hole for...
Drill a 1/8-inch hole for a sheetmetal screw to secure the adaptor to the steering column.
This is what a modified solid-shaft...
This is what a modified solid-shaft column should look like upon completion.