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Ford Mustang BBK Headers - How To Install '05-'07 Headers



There are four oxygen sensors, one of which screws into the driver-side manifold. Unplug all four of them. Since there isn't enough room to fit your hand into their cramped location, unplug the two in front with a pair of large tweezers, as shown here.
There are four oxygen sensors, one of which screws into the driver-side manifold. Unplug all four of them. Since there isn't enough room to fit your hand into their cramped location, unplug the two in front with a pair of large tweezers, as shown here.		The H-pipe is then unbolted from the stock cast-iron exhaust manifolds.
The H-pipe is then unbolted from the stock cast-iron exhaust manifolds.		With the oxygen sensors unplugged and the H-pipe separated at the front and rear, its mounting tabs slide from their rubber mounts to remove the pipe.
With the oxygen sensors unplugged and the H-pipe separated at the front and rear, its mounting tabs slide from their rubber mounts to remove the pipe.
With the H-pipe removed, there's some working room under the car. Continue removal of the steering shaft by taking out the bottom bolt.
With the H-pipe removed, there's some working room under the car. Continue removal of the steering shaft by taking out the bottom bolt.		With both bolts loosened, the steering shaft comes right out. Be sure the wheels are turned straight so when the shaft is reinstalled, the steering wheel will be oriented correctly with the front wheels.
With both bolts loosened, the steering shaft comes right out. Be sure the wheels are turned straight so when the shaft is reinstalled, the steering wheel will be oriented correctly with the front wheels.		At this point, the engine can be raised since the motor-mount bolts were removed in Step 4. At BBK's shop, we used screw-type support stands to raise the engine enough to slide a block of wood under the oil pan. The engine is lowered onto the wood, and the support stands are removed. Do not attempt to lift the engine by jacking under the oil pan. Instead, position the support stands under the pan rails (where the oil-pan bolts are screwed into the engine block), or use another piece of wood between the pan rail and a small floor jack if you're working with the car on jackstands.
At this point, the engine can be raised since the motor-mount bolts were removed in Step 4. At BBK's shop, we used screw-type support stands to raise the engine enough to slide a block of wood under the oil pan. The engine is lowered onto the wood, and the support stands are removed. Do not attempt to lift the engine by jacking under the oil pan. Instead, position the support stands under the pan rails (where the oil-pan bolts are screwed into the engine block), or use another piece of wood between the pan rail and a small floor jack if you're working with the car on jackstands.
Motor-mount removal is simple: Remove the four bolts that hold the ear to the side of the block.
Motor-mount removal is simple: Remove the four bolts that hold the ear to the side of the block.		With the bolts removed, the motor-mount ear lifts out. The design and engineering of the new Mustang make it easier to work underneath the car. Also helpful is how well the BBK headers fit. With everything removed, they fit onto the engine with no problem.
With the bolts removed, the motor-mount ear lifts out. The design and engineering of the new Mustang make it easier to work underneath the car. Also helpful is how well the BBK headers fit. With everything removed, they fit onto the engine with no problem.		Most of the nuts on the bottom side of the manifold are best accessed from under the car. If you haven't yet removed all the fasteners that are best accessed from under the hood, you might have to make one or two trips back and forth before the manifolds are ready to come out. We switched from under the hood to under the car and back again several times, but the job is easier on the new car because the strut towers are further away from the manifolds, and the car is generally bigger overall. With plenty of working room on the driver-side, the stock manifold drops right out once its eight nuts are removed.
Most of the nuts on the bottom side of the manifold are best accessed from under the car. If you haven't yet removed all the fasteners that are best accessed from under the hood, you might have to make one or two trips back and forth before the manifolds are ready to come out. We switched from under the hood to under the car and back again several times, but the job is easier on the new car because the strut towers are further away from the manifolds, and the car is generally bigger overall. With plenty of working room on the driver-side, the stock manifold drops right out once its eight nuts are removed.
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