Classic Ford Mustang Ignition - How To: Rebuild a Distributor

Marvin has tested the vacuum in advance. The diaphragm has a hole in it, rendering the vacuum advance inoperative.

Remove the two screws to detach the breaker plate. Marvin will blueprint this breaker plate for smooth operation.

Removing the distributor cam from the shaft isn't easy. The retainer clip is worked inside the shaft while pulling up on the cam. This is a balancing act requiring a lot of patience and coordination.

Next, the shim between the cam button and housing is removed.

The distributor shaft is driven out of the housing with a brass hammer (soft, yet heavy).

A hydraulic press or bench arbor can also be used.

Marvin measures the distributor shaft for excessive wear. Minimum allowable dimensions are 0.0015-0.0025 inch. For our subject distributor, Marvin recommends a new shaft and a duo of fresh bushings for the housing. Forget going to your local Ford dealer because these bushings are now obsolete. Check with any number of bearing companies. Distributor bushings aren't unique to only distributors. However, you want oil-impregnated bronze bushings for distributors, which are compatible with a steel shaft.

Here's everything you need for a complete distributor blueprinting, excluding bushings. Marvin has opted for the gray cap because it offers the greatest dielectric resistance to cross-fire. We're using the PerTronix Ignitor II electronic-ignition retrofit for reliability and better performance. Note the adjustable vacuum-advance unit. If you want original equipment, look to AMK Products for OEM, shim-style vacuum-advance units.

Marvin has installed new bushings and lubricated the shaft with his own assembly lube mix. Shaft endplay should be 0.024-0.035 inch.