We were able to obtain a used...
We were able to obtain a used replacement tach for our '92 LX 5.0 subject car from Midwest Mustang, which has an extensive inventory of used parts for '79-'04 Mustangs. If you order a tach, specify whether your car is an '87-'89 (no airbag) or a '90-'93 (driver-side airbag). Midwest will also need to know if you have a 5.0 (7,000 rpm scale) or a 2.3L four-cylinder (6,000 rpm scale).
We always try to make our articles helpful and informative. We think this how-to is exactly that: a useful repair-type examination of a procedure we've never covered before.
The cars we're focusing on are the '87-'93 Fox-body Mustangs; the project is the replacement of a factory tachometer. A '92 LX 5.0 hatchback that recently became part of our stable of Mustangs had a tachometer playing the role of a dead fish. At idle, the tach would read 3,000 rpm. During normal driving, the range on the gauge was only about 3,200 rpm with no accuracy throughout the engine's range of operation.
We'd never seen this before in a Fox Mustang, but it's no surprise as little things on these cars stop working on a fairly regular basis. The solution was to replace the tach with another unit from a donor car. Even with our less-than-spectacular mechanical ability, we tackled the project ourselves. The result was a resounding success, as we did it in two to three hours with no more than a few basic hand tools.
A friend introduced us to a valuable source for used Mustang parts. Midwest Mustang in Lawrence, Kansas, graciously supplied a used Fox-body 5.0 tach that worked perfectly once installed in our car. Keep Midwest in mind for any used parts you might need for '79-'04 Mustangs.
1. Accessing the gauge cluster...
1. Accessing the gauge cluster in an '87-'93 Fox Mustang requires the removal of several dashboard components. Begin by removing the toggle switches on each side of the dash binnacle. This is done by pressing the clips out of the way so the switches can be unplugged and removed from the car.
2. These clips need to be...
2. These clips need to be pressed in to separate the switches from the binnacle.
3. Once the switches are...
3. Once the switches are out, they can be unplugged. If they're stubborn, careful prying with a screwdriver will help.
4. Next, detach the lower...
4. Next, detach the lower trim panel from the steering column by removing two screws. Also being removed here is the plastic cover for the anti-submarine panel. Pull the cover firmly and it will come off. The panel underneath is held in place with several screws.
5. To access the bolts that...
5. To access the bolts that retain the gauge-cluster bezel, remove the anti-submarine panel, a metal piece that prevents the driver from being forced underneath the dash in the event of an accident. It's held in place with several fasteners.
6. Two bolts up top, along...
6. Two bolts up top, along with several bolts underneath the steering wheel, are detached so the bezel can be removed to access the gauge cluster. Although these are Torx bolts, they also accept a standard-size socket. That's helpful since the windshield limts the available space.
7. Once all the bolts are...
7. Once all the bolts are removed, the gauge-cluster bezel can be lifted out of the car.
8. With the bezel detached,...
8. With the bezel detached, the cluster is ready to come out. It lifts free from the dash after removing four bolts with a nut driver or socket.
9. The speedometer cable...
9. The speedometer cable unplugs from the speedometer by pushing the nylon collar to one side.
10. There are two plugs behind...
10. There are two plugs behind the cluster for the tach and secondary gauges. Once these are unplugged, the cluster can be taken out of the car. The remainder of the work can take place on a workbench.
11. Removal of the clear...
11. Removal of the clear plastic lens and the bezel trim panel is achieved by taking out the screws holding it in place.
12. Ten screws hold the lens...
12. Ten screws hold the lens and gauge-bezel trim panel in place. Once removed, the lens lifts off the cluster, followed immediately ...
13. ... by the bezel trim...
13. ... by the bezel trim panel. Some of the screws that hold the trim panel in place don't go through the clear lens. Removal of the trim panel gains access to the actual gauge faces.
14. Once you have access...
14. Once you have access to the gauges, swapping the old tachometer for the new one is easy. The lenses for the center indicator lights come off with the bezel trim panel, so there's easy access to the tachometer. By carefully pulling on the face, the tach is readily removed from the gauge cluster. Note that the edge of the tach face goes under the face of the water-temperature and volt gauges.
15. Here's the used tach...
15. Here's the used tach from Midwest Mustang ready to install onto the gauge cluster. Notice the three prongs on the back of the tach's printed circuit board; they fit into the three plugs in the white center area of the gauge cluster. It's a press-fit installation and takes minimal effort to plug the tach into place.
16. With the tach in place,...
16. With the tach in place, the gauge-bezel trim panel can be reinstalled, followed by the lens.
17. Once the lens is inserted,...
17. Once the lens is inserted, the cluster can be reinstalled in the car. This includes the plugs in the back of the cluster, reconnecting the speedometer cable, bolting the cluster back in place, and putting back the trim and electrical items. This is an excellent repair/upgrade, and you'll enjoy having a working factory tach once again in your '87-'93 Fox-body Mustang.