Where It All Began
When Dynacorn came out with its '67 Mustang replacement body for approximately $15,000 suggested retail, Ron Bramlett of Mustangs Plus wondered what it would cost and how much effort it would take to reclaim a junked Mustang and get it back on the road. That's when he remembered the Vintage Burgundy fastback parked in his private salvage yard. Twenty years ago, Mustangs Plus purchased the wrecked, six-cylinder '65 fastback to use as a parts car. After being stripped, the shell was left for dead in the company graveyard.
During the past several months, The Restomod Shop has been recouping Project Reclaim. First, it was hauled out of salvage and positioned on a frame jig for disassembly. The body was then mediablasted to bare steel. The car needed quarter-panels, a tail panel, wheelhouses, a floorpan, a right-front framerail and shock tower, radiator support, and a front crossmember. It also had to be pulled, worked, and straightened to factory specifications. Last month, we showed the ground effects going on. Next month, we'll cover the buildup of Project Reclaim's stroker 331 engine.
Mustangs have a datum mark...
Mustangs have a datum mark (or a dead center) that divides both halves of the body. This gives Terry a center reference point from which to measure stripes. This datum mark can be found at the top of the windshield.
Terry measures for LeMans...
Terry measures for LeMans stripes from dead center outward, with a constant 2 inches from hood to rear valance separating the stripes. The stripe width depends on body location. At the leading edge of the hood, the stripes are 9-1/4 inches wide, expanding to 10 inches at the cowl. They become progressively wider over the roofline-10-1/2 inches at the leading edge and 10-3/8 inches at the backlite. From the decklid down to the valance, the stripes are 10 inches wide.
When Terry reaches the backlite,...
When Terry reaches the backlite, he again measures and finds dead center to lay out LeMans stripes. He uses a non-photo blue pencil that can easily be erased.
For stripe masking, Terry...
For stripe masking, Terry uses 3M's Scotch #06405, 471 1/4-inch tape. This sticky vinyl tape is designed to seal firmly so paint won't weep underneath. Terry uses a specially modified paint stirrer to seal this tape along the surface and in corners.
As Terry applies striping...
As Terry applies striping tape, he checks and rechecks his measurements. When the striping tape is secure, he checks dimensions one last time.
The fresh-air intake is challenging....
The fresh-air intake is challenging. Frank carefully masks the cowl grille to keep the LeMans stripes on target, and it keeps unnecessary overspray out of the cowl.
This green masking tape is...
This green masking tape is designed to keep paint overspray from tracking past the striping tape. Frank lays down masking tape and paper to keep Restomod Blue Pearl off the white LeMans stripes. Despite Terry and Frank's best efforts, some blue overspray got through, but it was cleaned up with compound.
Ron Bramlett threw Terry a...
Ron Bramlett threw Terry a curve ball when he decided to trade the typical LeMans hood stripe for a more dramatic hood treatment. This took an exceptional amount of time because fiberglass isn't perfect. When Terry measured, he learned the hood crown wasn't dead center. Although his stripes were spot on, the hood wasn't.
Frank masks off the hoodscoop...
Frank masks off the hoodscoop per Ron's instructions. A white hood treatment blends into the LeMans body stripes at the cowl.
This is House of Kolor's PBC-36-QO1...
This is House of Kolor's PBC-36-QO1 TruBlue basecoat with additional pigment to achieve Restomod Blue Pearl-a Restomod Shop exclusive.
Frank begins body painting...
Frank begins body painting inside, then from the top down.
With each coat, the finish...
With each coat, the finish becomes darker. It's important to remember how many coats are applied should repair ever become necessary. Not only is paint mix critical, but also the number of coats.
All masking has been removed...
All masking has been removed and our base-coat inspected. Some LeMans stripe cleanup was necessary to remove blue basecoat.
Our House of Kolor basecoat...
Our House of Kolor basecoat has cured and is ready for the clear topcoat. This is the time to inspect for any flaws and get them fixed before topcoat
Here, Frank applies the last...
Here, Frank applies the last coat of clear. When it cures, we expect a certain amount of orange peel, which will vanish with color sanding and rub-out.
Each body professional has...
Each body professional has his or her own formula. Terry prefers PPG primer/sealer for the foundation, but he's crazy about House of Kolor's selection and paint performance. On top, he prefers PPG's Concept DCX-2055 with DT855 reducer and DCX-61 hardener for its great color sanding and rub-out performance. A good rule of thumb is to stick with the same paint manufacturer from steel to topcoat.
Restomod Blue Pearl comes...
Restomod Blue Pearl comes alive when Frank applies our topcoat. He gives Project Reclaim three to four coats of clear and watches the finish ignite. Five coats of clear is Terry's maximum if he intends to do a lot of color sanding and rub-out.