How To Install A Coilover Rear Suspension

Since its founding in 1981, Mustangs Plus has always been about having liberal amounts of fun with a classic Mustang. At a time when most of us were restoring to showroom stock and giving our Mustangs museum-class restorations, Mustangs Plus was inspiring enthusiasts to get out there and drive them. And so it has gone for 27 years.

The first step for the g-Link... 

   

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The first step for the g-Link system installation is chassis prep, which isn't saying much. Chase bolt-hole threads to ensure smooth engagement. Here, we have removed the rebound bumper, which is one of the attachment points.

When Total Control Products was founded a decade ago to improve Mustang handling, it got off to a good start with outstanding suspension/handling products that have become more refined with time. Project Reclaim, a '65 Mustang fastback saved from the crusher more than a year ago, received TCP's front underpinnings in last month's issue, including a coilover suspension coupled with a power rack and pinion for superb handling, ride, and control. This month, The Restomod Shop at Mustangs Plus is installing TCP's new g-Link canted four-bar coilover rear suspension for '65-'70 Mustangs.

What You Get
Total Control Products was founded on the principle that all Mustangs were born to handle better. The company started in front with fully articulating control arms, spring perches, and strut rods with two options-Ford's coilover upper arm or TCP's fully articulating coilover approach.

Chris Alston's Chassisworks has kicked TCP's approach up a notch with an incredible array of suspension systems for vintage Mustangs. For the rear, the 5804-M10 (PN 13764) g-Link canted four-bar coilover suspension system for '65-'70 Mustangs doesn't come cheap, but it is ready for action. For $1,739.95 sans sway bar, you get a sophisticated suspension system that enables you to toss those worn-out leaf springs in the recycle bin.

Here's what you get:

Once the g-Link subframe is...        read full caption Once the g-Link subframe is assembled as a subassembly, we're ready for a mock-up fit. Use your Mustang's attachment points and a tape measure to ensure a perfect fit.	With the subframe positioned...        read full caption With the subframe positioned and C-clamped in place, get your measurements. There should be exactly 10 inches from the trailing edge of the subframe bracket to the leading edge of the rebound bumper bracket. If measuring from the leading edge of the rebound bumper bracket to the leading edge of the subframe bracket, it should be 4 1/4 inches.	When you have committed to...        read full caption When you have committed to a location and are positive about measurements, scribe the holes and edges as shown. Be absolutely certain about location before drilling and welding.
Remove the paint and undercoat...        read full caption Remove the paint and undercoat where you intend to weld. The Restomod Shop suggests welding in addition to bolting for a secure installation.	Richard drills two 1/2-inch...        read full caption Richard drills two 1/2-inch holes for the TCP 1/2-20x5x3-inch U-bolt that will secure each side. He has scribed each hole location and drilled 1/8-inch pilot holes.	This is how to install the...        read full caption This is how to install the 1/2-20x5x3-inch U-bolt, which attaches the subframe to the framerail. Richard uses a magnet to guide the U-bolt. Once in place, we're ready for subframe installation.
Be careful never to lose this...        read full caption Be careful never to lose this U-bolt inside the framerail. Position the subframe and install flat washers and locknuts. Locknuts are torqued to 30 lb-ft.	With the subframe positioned...        read full caption With the subframe positioned and clamped, Richard strikes an arc and welds a smooth bead along the bracket.	The subframe also attaches...        read full caption The subframe also attaches at the original shock mounts and rebound bumper location. Shock location fasteners are torqued to 40 lb-ft. Rebound bumper fasteners are torqued to 20 lb-ft. The rebound bumper is also known as a pinion snubber.
Trailing arms are next, which...        read full caption Trailing arms are next, which begins with simple tightening, followed by the use of a torque wrench. You can install these trailing arms either way, but we suggest locating the Heim joint where access is easiest at the axlehousing. This enables you to adjust pinion angle and rearend alignment.	Lower the trailing arms (also...        read full caption Lower the trailing arms (also known as control arms) next. Again, locate Heim joint adjustments where you can get to them. Lower control arms maintain alignment, while upper control arms preserve pinion angle.	Control arm (trailing arm)...        read full caption Control arm (trailing arm) fasteners are torqued to 60 lb-ft. Make sure the grease jerks are accessible before tightening.