How To Install Force 10 Tri- Power Disc Brakes

Seal installation calls for extra care to keep grease where it belongs. Richard uses a sealer driver and great care. The main thing is to not distort the seal and make sure the lip spring remains intact. The spring is there to maintain seal lip contact. Apply a thin film of wheel-bearing grease on the lip.

There are a lot of misconceptions about how to properly install a brake rotor and drum. First, ensure proper bearing seating. If the outer bearing is flush with the axle's machined surface, you're home. Turn the rotor and see how it feels with your fingers on the outer bearing to keep it seated. There shouldn't be any grinding or resistance-just a smooth roller. Install the washer and castle nut.

Because we've seen brake rotor installations that scare us, we're going to explain the proper procedure for front wheel-bearing adjustment. While turning the rotor, torque the castle nut to 17-25 lb-ft in order to seat the bearings. Feel for resistance or grinding. Locate the hole in your axle. Back the castle nut to the next hole and install the cotter pin. Wipe off any excess grease and install the cap.

As with the back brakes, Richard has already assembled the caliper and bracket. The caliper is fitted and torqued to SSBC specifications in the instructions. Loctite is used on these fasteners as well.

We like these stainless steel braided and coated brake hoses from SSBC. Remember that contact surfaces must be clean. Even a grain of dust or lint between the copper and steel will cause leakage.

SSBC provided us with good-looking three-piston disc brakes designed to yield exceptional stopping power with adequate hydraulics-three pistons and hydraulic pressure provide more uniform application across the rotor surface. If you're up for 17-inch wheels, this is an outstanding brake for your application.

Mustangs Plus looked to Classic Tube for all of Project Reclaim's plumbing. We've opted for a complete chassis plumbing kit, available from Mustangs Plus.

Terry Simpson from The Restomod Shop plumbs Reclaim's brake system. He has opted for the all-in-one pressure differential/proportioning valve. Lines from Classic Tube offer exceptional fit.

We like SSBC's compact power brake booster designed for '65-'66 Mustangs. It fits like a glove and is easy to install. Here, Richard installs the gasket/spacer, which goes between the billet master cylinder and power booster. Before seating the master cylinder, check the distance between the actuator rod and the master cylinder. Adjust to where the rod just misses the master cylinder piston. Ideally, you will have 0.060-inch clearance. If the actuator rod presses on the master cylinder piston, you won't be able to bleed the brakes.

The Restomod Shop rebuilt Reclaim's brake pedal support using Scott Drake's roller bearing kit. Pack it full of white-lithium grease and you're good to go.