When we did our six to V-8 conversion a couple of years ago, we had a rough time getting our Trans Am Racing 289 onto the engine mounts. When we bolted stock mounts to the engine block, they would not fit the chassis. We tried several sets of engine mounts, thinking we had defective or mis-drilled mounts, with the same result. When we measured framerails, we learned that there was accident damage to the driver side, which kept our engine mounts from seating properly. We used a Port-A-Power and a lot of colorful language to get the stock mounts to bolt up.
Had we opted for adjustable engine mounts from Ron Morris Performance, available for $225 from Mustangs Plus, we wouldn't have needed the Port-A-Power, just simple handtools.
These fully adjustable, good-looking engine mounts are four-piece units you can install during your next engine installation. Or, if you're replacing mounts, these adjustable units can be swapped in an afternoon.
What Tools Will I Need?
* 3/8-drive socket set
* 3/8-drive SAE deep-well sockets
* Floor or bottle jack with 2x4 wood block
* SAE combination wrench set
* Needle nose/duck bill pliers
* Hammer
The Ron Morris Performance...
The Ron Morris Performance adjustable engine mounts are a class act with good-looking stampings, Grade 8 hardware, and urethane bushings. The mounts offer good vibration absorption and ease of installation.
We're working with a '65 Mustang...
We're working with a '65 Mustang with two-piece engine mounts. Ford used this mount through early 1966, then developed a new one-piece mount designed to reduce noise, vibration, and harshness. This new mount also made the engine sit lower, which explains why a '65 Mustang feels a bit different from mid-'66 and later. Ramon's Automotive in Palmdale, California, properly supports the engine, locating a 2x4 at the oil pan riser in front. Never support mid-pan.
We're working with a '65 Mustang...
We're working with a '65 Mustang with two-piece engine mounts. Ford used this mount through early 1966, then developed a new one-piece mount designed to reduce noise, vibration, and harshness. This new mount also made the engine sit lower, which explains why a '65 Mustang feels a bit different from mid-'66 and later. Ramon's Automotive in Palmdale, California, properly supports the engine, locating a 2x4 at the oil pan riser in front. Never support mid-pan.
Once the locknut that ties...
Once the locknut that ties the engine mount and frame bracket is removed, take out the mount as shown. This is the actual engine mount, a small rubber block that didn't do much of a job for vibration isolation.
Next, remove the cast-iron...
Next, remove the cast-iron frame bracket. Although this is a California car, the bolts were rusted and decidedly stubborn.
Although we call them two-piece...
Although we call them two-piece mounts, they're actually one-piece with a cast-iron frame bracket. If you don't need the adjustable Ron Morris Performance mounts, you can improve NVH on a '65 Mustang by using '66 or '68-'70 frame brackets and improved engine mounts. Be advised that '67 frame brackets and engine mounts are stand-alone and one-year only, which is why we want '66 or '68-'70 brackets/mounts.
The Ron Morris mount installation...
The Ron Morris mount installation begins with engine brackets, which enable you to slide the engine fore or aft depending on transmission type. Rarely would you ever have to use this feature in a classic Mustang, but it's nice to know it's there. The angular end goes to the rear on both sides and squared end to front. Install and tighten.
The frame brackets bolt on...
The frame brackets bolt on like this on both sides of the shock tower cradles. Common cadmium-plated Grade 8 bolts tie these pieces together with locknuts and flat washers. We suggest using Grade 8 flat washers on both ends.
This is how your Ron Morris...
This is how your Ron Morris engine mount configuration should look before the mount goes in. Frame bracket stampings are universal. However, if you want it to look impressive, position the sharp edges in and the rounded edges out. The same is true for flat washers-smooth edges out, sharp edges in.
Here's the left side mount...
Here's the left side mount loosely installed with everything in place. If your Mustang's framerail dimensions are correct, no adjustment is required.
The heart of the matter is...
The heart of the matter is this clever urethane mount that absorbs vibration and noise. Ramon's Automotive installs the mount loosely because it will have to be centered on the frame brackets once tied to the engine. Frame brackets have been removed for this step.
With all pieces in place,...
With all pieces in place, run the bolts down until tight. Although a torque wrench is recommended, it is not mandatory. Get these bolts good and tight, but do not overtighten.
Sliders are tightened last....
Sliders are tightened last. Check it out-good-looking engine mounts that will yield quiet operation and ease of service.