Front and rear sway bars are key components for improved handling and better stability for all cars. Unfortunately, many cars aren't equipped with rear sway bars at all, including nearly all vintage Mustangs. Only high-performance versions, such as the '70 Boss 302, came with rear bars. In addition, the front ones are often quite small and not very effective.
This how-to fixes all these issues in one fell swoop. Marlo's Frame and Alignment added a rear sway bar and a considerably larger front one, both manufactured by Traction Master, to Natasha Lee's '65 Mustang coupe. She reports huge improvements in overall handling prowess and over-the-road stability. For something as basic as these two relatively easy bolt-on pieces, the difference is dramatic. As a true enthusiast and the proprietor of Mustangmadam .com, Natasha drives her '65 often and had a clear idea about her Mustang's lackluster handling abilities.
Shop techs Brian Clarke and Bill Hall had the bars installed in less than two hours. The procedure can also easily be done at home with a pair of safe jackstands and some basic handtools. The bars come with all needed hardware for installation, including polyurethane bushings.
The front bar is a direct...
The front bar is a direct replacement for the stock unit and is an easy swap. Figure less than an hour with the car on jackstands, using only a few sockets and wrenches.
The rear bar requires a little...
The rear bar requires a little bit more work, as two holes need to be drilled, but it's still no big deal. About an hour or so and you're ready to go.
We started with the rear bar...
We started with the rear bar by installing the endlinks over each end of the bar. About half an inch of the bar should protrude from the polyurethane bushing.
The bar's U-bolts need to...
The bar's U-bolts need to fit over the rear axle without crushing the brake lines. Every car will be different, but you might have to pry up the tabs on the axle that hold the brake lines in place so you can slightly bend the brake lines up for the bolts to fit underneath the lines.
As shown here, run the U-bolts...
As shown here, run the U-bolts under the brake lines. The line can be easily bent slightly for the bolts to fit underneath. If desired, you can also tap the brake line back down in place over the bolts once the bar is installed.
Begin assembly of the rear...
Begin assembly of the rear bar by placing the supplied bushing grease on the bar, then install the bushing followed by the sway bar bracket.
Loosely assemble the bar mounting...
Loosely assemble the bar mounting hardware on the axle by placing the clamp and clamp plate onto the U-bolt as shown.
The bar then goes onto the...
The bar then goes onto the U-bolt by mating the sway bar bracket (over the clamp plate) to the U-bolt and securing it all into place with the supplied Nylock nuts and lock washers.
When both sides are assembled,...
When both sides are assembled, partially tighten the Nylock nuts.
One hole for each end of the...
One hole for each end of the bar needs to be drilled in the framerail, which is best accessed by removing the rear wheels. With the bar hanging from the rear axle, raise the link assembly and mark the framerail through the upper hole of the link. Center-punch and drill using a 3/8-inch drill bit. Drill through both sides of the framerail.
Once both holes are drilled...
Once both holes are drilled on each side, the supplied long 3/8-inch-diameter bolt and washer will fit through.
With the long bolt in place,...
With the long bolt in place, attach the bar endlinks as shown. The order is: bolt and washer, a bushing, the endlink bar, another bushing, a flat washer, and the nut.
With everything installed...
With everything installed on the ends, securely tighten all fasteners until snug. Be careful not to over-tighten the bolts through the framerails. Over-tightening them will crush the framerail.
Installation of the front...
Installation of the front bar is easy. Begin by loosening and removing the end-bolts that link the factory bar to the lower control arms.
Next, loosen and remove the...
Next, loosen and remove the sway bar brackets that hold the bar to the car's front subframe.
Once the two bolts on each...
Once the two bolts on each bracket and the end bolts are removed, the factory bar drops right out of the car.
A comparison of the new bar...
A comparison of the new bar (top) and the old one clearly shows the difference in diameter. The new 1-inch bar significantly firms up the front end for better handling and overall stability-especially on twisty roads, which are usually the most fun to drive on.
Installing the new front bar...
Installing the new front bar is an R&R procedure after the old one is removed. Grease the bar and slip the bushing over the bar as shown, followed by the mounting brackets.
Be sure there's a bushing...
Be sure there's a bushing on either side of the bar, along with a steel washer over each of the bushings.
With the hardware in place...
With the hardware in place on the bar, it's ready to be installed in the car.
Using the existing nuts and...
Using the existing nuts and bolts, install the brackets and securely tighten the hardware.
Complete the installation...
Complete the installation by securing the endlink bolts onto the lower control arms. Installation order here is: a bolt, a washer, a bushing, the bar, another bushing, another washer, the spacer tube, another washer, the flat side of a bushing against the front lower control arm, the control arm, another bushing, another washer, and the Nylock nut. Securely tighten all the hardware and you're all set to go. Now is a good time to consider a front-end alignment to make sure all the settings are correct.