How To Replace A Steering Linkage

When we decided to do steering linkage replacement as a stand-alone article outside of complete front suspension replacement, we questioned our own judgment because front-end components typically wear out together and are replaced at the same time. However, Mustang front suspension components also have a lifespan that depends on how the car is driven. Upper ball joints are high-wear items on classic Mustangs no matter how you drive them. Uppers are normally the first front suspension parts to wear out, even if you're running the best high-quality Moog parts. Lower ball joints virtually never wear out because they're not carrying the same kind of load as the top. Tie-rod ends vary in lifespan depending on how you drive. If you do a lot of city driving, tie-rod ends wear quickly, as do idler and Pitman arms.

So we're taking this opportunity to focus on the steering linkage. Classic '65-'70 Mustang steering linkages differ depending on power or manual steering and the model year. Although linkages in '65-'66 Mustangs are similar to '67-'70 Mustangs, they're different because the later Mustang has a wider track. That's what makes '67-'70 Mustangs feel different when you drive them. The '65-'66 Mustang is closely tied to its Falcon roots with the same basic shock tower stampings and steering linkage.

First-generation '65-'66 Mustangs with manual steering have a solid centerlink (also called a drag link) from inner tie-rod end to inner tie-rod end. Inner and outer tie-rod ends are identical on both sides. With power steering, you have a different centerlink that is also an integral part of the power steering control valve. That means the control valve and centerlink are the same. Inner and outer tie-rod ends are different on power steering cars to clear the control valve.

Another consideration is six-cylinder versus V-8. Sixes have a different centerlink and Pitman arm than V-8 models because the centerlink takes a dip beneath the V-8 oil pan. The six-cylinder centerlink is straight. Try to use a six-cylinder centerlink on a V-8 Mustang and you can expect frustration and impossible fit.

For '67-'70, Ford simplified the Mustang steering linkage with the same inner and outer tie-rod ends for both manual and power steering. However, the centerlink for manual steering is different from one for power steering. Unlike '65-'66, the power steering centerlink screws into the control valve, where it is pinned for security.

Here's a conventional Mustang...        read full caption Here's a conventional Mustang steering linkage, which consists of the centerlink, inner tie-rod ends (2), couplings (2), outer tie-rod ends (2), a Pitman arm at the steering gear (1), and the idler arm (1) on the righthand side. Wear spots are tie-rod ends (ball and socket design), the idler arm, and the Pitman arm on manual steering cars. Power steering cars have a solid Pitman arm, so there's no wear there.	Six-cylinder Mustangs have...        read full caption Six-cylinder Mustangs have a straight centerlink and a different Pitman arm at the steering gear than V-8 models. This is clearly a different Pitman arm. The lefthand inner tie-rod end attaches to the Pitman arm instead of the centerlink on six-cylinder models.	A Word About Steering Components...        read full caption A Word About Steering Components Each steering linkage component has its respective purpose. However, did you know the idler arm not only "carries" the linkage, but also helps the linkage return to the center after turning a corner? How does it do that? By having a stiff rubber/steel bushing that keeps the idler arm and steering linkage centered. Factory idler arms have pressed-in rubber/steel bushings that are stiff by design, leading some to believe there's something wrong with them because they are stiff. The stiff rubber/steel pivot bushing is there to make the steering wheel snap back to center as long as you have a spot-on front-end alignment with proper toe. Ironically, most aftermarket idler arms have a bushing design that makes the idler arm roll smoothly about its axis. It makes steering smoother from lock to lock but defeats what Ford engineers had in mind 45 years ago. The best idler arm for your classic Mustang isn't mainstream aftermarket, but rather exactly what Ford installed to begin with-that stiff, rubber-bushed idler arm.
The best idler arm for your...        read full caption The best idler arm for your classic Mustang should look like this-void of grease fittings and packed with a rubber/steel core bushing designed to make the steering wheel snap smoothly back to center. You should not be able to move this type of idler arm away from center by hand.	Quick Tip If you want to...        read full caption Quick Tip If you want to get your alignment close to what your Mustang had before disassembly, match the old and new tie-rod assemblies as close as you can get them. Remember to confirm how deeply each tie-rod end is screwed into the coupling. Each coupling is threaded with left- and righthand threads to screw tie-rod ends in or out. It is virtually impossible to get this backward. When you get ball/stud distances identical to the old tie-rod ends, you can't miss. Once the new linkage is installed, get a professional front-end alignment right away.	This is the steering linkage...        read full caption This is the steering linkage support system: idler arm (right) and Pitman arm (left). This is a Pitman arm for power steering, solid and without the ball/socket attachment found on manual steering cars. We call these parts a support system because the idler and Pitman arms support the steering system. For '65-'66, the idler arm is typically a dog-leg affair that slides onto the body pivot (mid-photo). Mustangs Plus sent us the body pivot just in case we didn't have one or had a one-piece integral idler arm to replace.
These are outer tie-rod ends...        read full caption These are outer tie-rod ends for '65-'66, which are similar to those for '67-'70. Grab-A-Trak tie-rod ends from Mustangs Plus have grease zerks for lubrication. Not all will have grease fittings; some are sealed for the life of the rod end.	Quick Tip: Make It Easier...        read full caption Quick Tip: Make It EasierTo make front-end alignment easier for professionals, always apply a thin film of moly-lube to the threads to both prevent corrosion and facilitate toe adjustment.	Mustangs Plus has provided...        read full caption Mustangs Plus has provided new couplings, which should be lubricated with a thin film of chassis lube for easy adjustment.