How To Replace A Steering Linkage

Here are the inner tie-rod ends for '65-'66s with manual steering. These Grab-A-Trak parts are clear-coated for corrosion prevention. Power steering-equipped models have a different outer tie-rod end to clear the power steering control valve.

We enlisted Ramon's Automotive in Palmdale, California, to do the work. Ramon suggests removing the entire steering linkage as a unit for easy reference, swapping parts in segments, which ensures you don't forget anything. Cotter pins are removed first, then the castle nuts.

Ramon rattles our steering linkage apart with a fork and the modern convenience of compressed air technology. It makes lots of noise, but it's effective.

Ramon assembles the new couplings and tie-rod ends, applying a thin film of lubricant to the threads to ensure that the tie-rods will always be easy to adjust. Ramon also stresses positioning coupling bolts per Ford's factory Shop Manuals to eliminate strip-stream noise.

Ramon suggests the use of a ball joint removal fork for tie-rod end and Pitman arm unions. If you are concerned about damaging seals, give the steering knuckle (spindle) a whack at the tie-rod end with a 5-pound hammer. Most of the time, tie-rod ends will fall right out. This one did.

This aftermarket idler arm has non-tension bushings for smooth operation but won't offer that traditional "snap-back" to center. Some of that can be corrected with toe adjustments. Ramon assembles the idler arm and centerlink, securing the castle nut and installing the cotter pin.

Ramon hangs the linkage first at the idler arm using a 9/16-inch socket and a combination wrench. Always use self-locking nuts with fine-thread high carbon steel Grade 8 bolts.

The Pitman arm is next. Because we received a Pitman arm for a power steering car, we've had to keep the original manual steering Pitman arm. Ramon will order the correct Pitman arm for manual steering.

Inner and outer tie-rod ends are secured as shown. Double-check all fasteners before proceeding to cotter pins (also known as "safetying").

Cotter pins are installed and clipped. Always bend and trim cotter pins in a manner that prevents injury to someone working underneath.

Tie-rod ends are screwed into couplings one way only so they screw in and out for toe adjustment. Follow Ford's directions here and you can't miss.

Did you know there's a motive to Ford's madness on coupling position? This illustrates proper coupling position but doesn't say why. As we understand it from Ford engineers, positioning has everything to do with slip-stream airflow underneath your Mustang. When these bolts are not positioned properly, wind noise can develop.

You have a choice when it comes to grease fittings. You can lubricate each joint using a grease zerk fitting, then remove the zerk and install a plug for a factory appearance. If you have a daily driver or weekend cruiser, go with grease zerks for ease of maintenance.

Front-End Alignment
After performing any front-end work, always place your Mustang in the hands of a skilled front-end alignment professional. Everyone has his or her favorite. Our favorite is Marlon Mitchell of Marlo's Frame & Alignment in Chatsworth, California. Marlo's is a family owned and operated shop that has been in business in Southern California's San Fernando Valley since the '70s. You won't find high-tech laser alignment systems here, but instead old-fashioned know-how with more traditional tools of the trade. While you're there, get acquainted with Marlon's Blueprint front-end components for classic Mustangs. They look factory original, yet they're engineered for better performance via modern bushing technology and heavy-duty components.