When we decided to do steering linkage replacement as a stand-alone article outside of complete front suspension replacement, we questioned our own judgment because front-end components typically wear out together and are replaced at the same time. However, Mustang front suspension components also have a lifespan that depends on how the car is driven. Upper ball joints are high-wear items on classic Mustangs no matter how you drive them. Uppers are normally the first front suspension parts to wear out, even if you're running the best high-quality Moog parts. Lower ball joints virtually never wear out because they're not carrying the same kind of load as the top. Tie-rod ends vary in lifespan depending on how you drive. If you do a lot of city driving, tie-rod ends wear quickly, as do idler and Pitman arms.
So we're taking this opportunity to focus on the steering linkage. Classic '65-'70 Mustang steering linkages differ depending on power or manual steering and the model year. Although linkages in '65-'66 Mustangs are similar to '67-'70 Mustangs, they're different because the later Mustang has a wider track. That's what makes '67-'70 Mustangs feel different when you drive them. The '65-'66 Mustang is closely tied to its Falcon roots with the same basic shock tower stampings and steering linkage.
First-generation '65-'66 Mustangs with manual steering have a solid centerlink (also called a drag link) from inner tie-rod end to inner tie-rod end. Inner and outer tie-rod ends are identical on both sides. With power steering, you have a different centerlink that is also an integral part of the power steering control valve. That means the control valve and centerlink are the same. Inner and outer tie-rod ends are different on power steering cars to clear the control valve.
Another consideration is six-cylinder versus V-8. Sixes have a different centerlink and Pitman arm than V-8 models because the centerlink takes a dip beneath the V-8 oil pan. The six-cylinder centerlink is straight. Try to use a six-cylinder centerlink on a V-8 Mustang and you can expect frustration and impossible fit.
For '67-'70, Ford simplified the Mustang steering linkage with the same inner and outer tie-rod ends for both manual and power steering. However, the centerlink for manual steering is different from one for power steering. Unlike '65-'66, the power steering centerlink screws into the control valve, where it is pinned for security.
Here's a conventional Mustang...
Here's a conventional Mustang steering linkage, which consists of the centerlink, inner tie-rod ends (2), couplings (2), outer tie-rod ends (2), a Pitman arm at the steering gear (1), and the idler arm (1) on the righthand side. Wear spots are tie-rod ends (ball and socket design), the idler arm, and the Pitman arm on manual steering cars. Power steering cars have a solid Pitman arm, so there's no wear there.
Six-cylinder Mustangs have...
Six-cylinder Mustangs have a straight centerlink and a different Pitman arm at the steering gear than V-8 models. This is clearly a different Pitman arm. The lefthand inner tie-rod end attaches to the Pitman arm instead of the centerlink on six-cylinder models.
A Word About Steering Components...
A Word About Steering Components
Each steering linkage component has its respective purpose. However, did you know the idler arm not only "carries" the linkage, but also helps the linkage return to the center after turning a corner? How does it do that? By having a stiff rubber/steel bushing that keeps the idler arm and steering linkage centered. Factory idler arms have pressed-in rubber/steel bushings that are stiff by design, leading some to believe there's something wrong with them because they are stiff. The stiff rubber/steel pivot bushing is there to make the steering wheel snap back to center as long as you have a spot-on front-end alignment with proper toe. Ironically, most aftermarket idler arms have a bushing design that makes the idler arm roll smoothly about its axis. It makes steering smoother from lock to lock but defeats what Ford engineers had in mind 45 years ago. The best idler arm for your classic Mustang isn't mainstream aftermarket, but rather exactly what Ford installed to begin with-that stiff, rubber-bushed idler arm.
The best idler arm for your...
The best idler arm for your classic Mustang should look like this-void of grease fittings and packed with a rubber/steel core bushing designed to make the steering wheel snap smoothly back to center. You should not be able to move this type of idler arm away from center by hand.
Quick Tip If you want to...
Quick Tip
If you want to get your alignment close to what your Mustang had before disassembly, match the old and new tie-rod assemblies as close as you can get them. Remember to confirm how deeply each tie-rod end is screwed into the coupling. Each coupling is threaded with left- and righthand threads to screw tie-rod ends in or out. It is virtually impossible to get this backward. When you get ball/stud distances identical to the old tie-rod ends, you can't miss. Once the new linkage is installed, get a professional front-end alignment right away.
This is the steering linkage...
This is the steering linkage support system: idler arm (right) and Pitman arm (left). This is a Pitman arm for power steering, solid and without the ball/socket attachment found on manual steering cars. We call these parts a support system because the idler and Pitman arms support the steering system. For '65-'66, the idler arm is typically a dog-leg affair that slides onto the body pivot (mid-photo). Mustangs Plus sent us the body pivot just in case we didn't have one or had a one-piece integral idler arm to replace.
These are outer tie-rod ends...
These are outer tie-rod ends for '65-'66, which are similar to those for '67-'70. Grab-A-Trak tie-rod ends from Mustangs Plus have grease zerks for lubrication. Not all will have grease fittings; some are sealed for the life of the rod end.
Quick Tip: Make It Easier...
Quick Tip: Make It EasierTo make front-end alignment easier for professionals, always apply a thin film of moly-lube to the threads to both prevent corrosion and facilitate toe adjustment.
Mustangs Plus has provided...
Mustangs Plus has provided new couplings, which should be lubricated with a thin film of chassis lube for easy adjustment.
Here are the inner tie-rod...
Here are the inner tie-rod ends for '65-'66s with manual steering. These Grab-A-Trak parts are clear-coated for corrosion prevention. Power steering-equipped models have a different outer tie-rod end to clear the power steering control valve.
We enlisted Ramon's Automotive...
We enlisted Ramon's Automotive in Palmdale, California, to do the work. Ramon suggests removing the entire steering linkage as a unit for easy reference, swapping parts in segments, which ensures you don't forget anything. Cotter pins are removed first, then the castle nuts.
Ramon rattles our steering...
Ramon rattles our steering linkage apart with a fork and the modern convenience of compressed air technology. It makes lots of noise, but it's effective.
Ramon assembles the new couplings...
Ramon assembles the new couplings and tie-rod ends, applying a thin film of lubricant to the threads to ensure that the tie-rods will always be easy to adjust. Ramon also stresses positioning coupling bolts per Ford's factory Shop Manuals to eliminate strip-stream noise.
Ramon suggests the use of...
Ramon suggests the use of a ball joint removal fork for tie-rod end and Pitman arm unions. If you are concerned about damaging seals, give the steering knuckle (spindle) a whack at the tie-rod end with a 5-pound hammer. Most of the time, tie-rod ends will fall right out. This one did.
This aftermarket idler arm...
This aftermarket idler arm has non-tension bushings for smooth operation but won't offer that traditional "snap-back" to center. Some of that can be corrected with toe adjustments. Ramon assembles the idler arm and centerlink, securing the castle nut and installing the cotter pin.
Ramon hangs the linkage first...
Ramon hangs the linkage first at the idler arm using a 9/16-inch socket and a combination wrench. Always use self-locking nuts with fine-thread high carbon steel Grade 8 bolts.
The Pitman arm is next. Because...
The Pitman arm is next. Because we received a Pitman arm for a power steering car, we've had to keep the original manual steering Pitman arm. Ramon will order the correct Pitman arm for manual steering.
Inner and outer tie-rod ends...
Inner and outer tie-rod ends are secured as shown. Double-check all fasteners before proceeding to cotter pins (also known as "safetying").
Cotter pins are installed...
Cotter pins are installed and clipped. Always bend and trim cotter pins in a manner that prevents injury to someone working underneath.
Tie-rod ends are screwed into...
Tie-rod ends are screwed into couplings one way only so they screw in and out for toe adjustment. Follow Ford's directions here and you can't miss.
Did you know there's a motive...
Did you know there's a motive to Ford's madness on coupling position? This illustrates proper coupling position but doesn't say why. As we understand it from Ford engineers, positioning has everything to do with slip-stream airflow underneath your Mustang. When these bolts are not positioned properly, wind noise can develop.
You have a choice when it...
You have a choice when it comes to grease fittings. You can lubricate each joint using a grease zerk fitting, then remove the zerk and install a plug for a factory appearance. If you have a daily driver or weekend cruiser, go with grease zerks for ease of maintenance.
Front-End Alignment After...
Front-End Alignment
After performing any front-end work, always place your Mustang in the hands of a skilled front-end alignment professional. Everyone has his or her favorite. Our favorite is Marlon Mitchell of Marlo's Frame & Alignment in Chatsworth, California. Marlo's is a family owned and operated shop that has been in business in Southern California's San Fernando Valley since the '70s. You won't find high-tech laser alignment systems here, but instead old-fashioned know-how with more traditional tools of the trade. While you're there, get acquainted with Marlon's Blueprint front-end components for classic Mustangs. They look factory original, yet they're engineered for better performance via modern bushing technology and heavy-duty components.