How To Install S197 Caster/Camber Plates

Now remove the strut-to-spindle mounting bolts, then remove the strut/spring assembly from the car as shown. Use a metal hanger or safety wire to prevent the spindle, brake caliper, and rotor from placing a strain on the brake line.

If possible, secure the strut in a vise, which will make for an easier installation. Don't clamp down on the strut housing, which will damage internal components. With stock springs, use an external spring compressor to release the spring force on the upper strut mount assembly. The Maximum Motorsports test car had aftermarket springs, so the shorter spring didn't need to be compressed. Either way, remove the upper strut-retaining nut (and washer if present) as shown, while holding the strut shaft with the correctly sized Allen socket.

With the hardware removed, the upper strut mount is removed as shown here.

Use a flat screwdriver to pry the stock upper rubber isolator from the upper strut mount assembly, which will be used with the caster/camber plates. There are two styles of struts used on S197 Mustangs-a twin-tube and an inverted mono-tube. Install the spacers as shown based on the type of strut your car has and whether it's lowered or not. Spacer stack installation is clearly spelled out in MM's thorough instructions and varies due to strut style and ride height. Shown here is a short spacer.

A tapered spacer was installed next on our lowered car with twin-tube struts.

Next, reinstall the upper isolator onto the spring without the stock mount. Be sure the pigtail of the spring is properly aligned and seated in the rubber isolator.

With the MM upper spring perch assembly already in place here, the strut shaft will protrude through the center hole of the perch. Place the caster/camber plate assembly onto the strut shaft by slipping the shaft through the spherical bearing. Be careful not to dislodge the tapered spacers from the bearing.

Another tapered spacer is put into place before the nut is installed. Then reinstall the upper strut retaining nut and washer (if used) and torque to the strut manufacturer's recommended value. If using stock Ford, Koni, or Tokico struts (twin-tube), torque to 45 lb-ft. For Bilstein, Edelbrock, or H&R struts (inverted mono-tube), torque to 54 lb-ft. If a spring compressor was used, slowly release spring tension and remove the compressor from the strut. While loosening the compressor, be sure that both spring pigtails are properly located in both the lower spring perch and on the upper rubber isolator. The strut and spring assembly with the caster/camber plate in place is now ready to be reinstalled into the car.

Before installing the strut, check the bottom of the tower for any raised metal flashing. File or sand down any detected rough areas. The bottom of the tower must be smooth to allow the plate to slide freely during alignment procedures. Reinstall the strut into the car, being careful to orient the notch on the caster/camber plate toward the outboard side of the car.

Snug all five nuts on the MM caster/camber plate.

Reinstall the bolts that hold the strut to the spindle and torque them to 148 lb-ft. Reattach the brake-line bracket and the ABS sensor wire as well as the sway-bar endlink to the strut; torque the sway-bar link to 85 lb-ft. Loosen the five nuts on the plate slightly until the plate can barely slide in its adjustment slots. Slide the plate forward and torque the 10mm nut to 26 lb-ft. Then center the strut shaft in the strut-tower opening. Once centered, torque the 8mm nuts to 20 lb-ft. Complete the installation with a front-end alignment. Be sure to pass on to the alignment shop the important information contained in the MM instruction sheet.

Install the forward 8mm nuts and washers, which has already been done here, and thread them on until the tips of the bolts touch the Nylok portion of the nut. Then place this support bracket onto these two studs. The bracket should be oriented toward the outboard side of the car. Install the remaining nuts and washers, including a 10mm nut on the large stud that protrudes through the support bracket.