For proper suspension alignment on lowered Mustangs, caster/camber plates have always been a good idea. We've covered their installation on Fox and SN-95 Mustangs in the past, and this time we're taking a look at a set of plates being installed on the current Mustang.
Maximum Motorsports has always been a supplier of top-quality caster/camber plates for Foxes and SN-95s. The tradition continues with this version for S197s, which includes all Mustangs produced in the five-year run from '05 to '09.
A requirement for any lowered '05-'09 Mustang, the Maximum Motorsports plates have separate adjustments for both caster and camber to provide the largest continuous range of alignment settings possible, thus allowing correction of the excessive negative camber caused by lowering. Even a car lowered as much as 2½ inches can be aligned to factory specs.
Installation takes a couple of hours. We recently stopped in at MM's in-house shop to see the plates being installed on the company's Screaming Yellow '05 Mustang GT test car.
Maximum Motorsports' caster/camber...
Maximum Motorsports' caster/camber plates are loaded with features, including a large, continuous range of camber adjustment on lowered cars, which is possible without affecting caster. The caster adjustment range is also large and allows correction for OEM production tolerances. Caster and camber are easily adjusted at the top of the strut tower, and the range of suspension travel can be shifted to allow for added bump travel on lowered cars. The plates have Teflon-lined spherical bearings that eliminate deflection and precisely locate the strut shaft. All of the parts are plated or powdercoated for long-lasting protection.
Assembly of the caster/camber...
Assembly of the caster/camber plates is done before installation. Install the two stud plates from the bottom of the bearing plate, with the studs protruding through the slots. Position the stud plates so the large radius, located between the two studs of the plate, faces the spherical bearing.
Though installed later on...
Though installed later on the strut, the upper spring perch fits to the plates like this. This image illustrates how it fits in relation to the caster/camber plate assembly.
Place the caster plates on...
Place the caster plates on top of the bearing plate (this is the passenger side), making sure the raised lip around the spherical bearing protrudes through the center slot of the caster plate.
Wrap one of the supplied rubber...
Wrap one of the supplied rubber bands around the studs to hold the stud plates in position while the caster/camber plates are being installed.
Disconnect the sway-bar endlink...
Disconnect the sway-bar endlink from the strut.
Loosen the strut-to-spindle...
Loosen the strut-to-spindle mounting bolts, but don't remove them yet.
With the car on jackstands...
With the car on jackstands and the wheels removed, disconnect the brake-line bracket and ABS sensor line from the strut.
Next, remove the four upper...
Next, remove the four upper strut-mount nuts, located underhood on the top of the strut tower.
Now remove the strut-to-spindle...
Now remove the strut-to-spindle mounting bolts, then remove the strut/spring assembly from the car as shown. Use a metal hanger or safety wire to prevent the spindle, brake caliper, and rotor from placing a strain on the brake line.
If possible, secure the strut...
If possible, secure the strut in a vise, which will make for an easier installation. Don't clamp down on the strut housing, which will damage internal components. With stock springs, use an external spring compressor to release the spring force on the upper strut mount assembly. The Maximum Motorsports test car had aftermarket springs, so the shorter spring didn't need to be compressed. Either way, remove the upper strut-retaining nut (and washer if present) as shown, while holding the strut shaft with the correctly sized Allen socket.
With the hardware removed,...
With the hardware removed, the upper strut mount is removed as shown here.
Use a flat screwdriver to...
Use a flat screwdriver to pry the stock upper rubber isolator from the upper strut mount assembly, which will be used with the caster/camber plates. There are two styles of struts used on S197 Mustangs-a twin-tube and an inverted mono-tube. Install the spacers as shown based on the type of strut your car has and whether it's lowered or not. Spacer stack installation is clearly spelled out in MM's thorough instructions and varies due to strut style and ride height. Shown here is a short spacer.
A tapered spacer was installed...
A tapered spacer was installed next on our lowered car with twin-tube struts.
Next, reinstall the upper...
Next, reinstall the upper isolator onto the spring without the stock mount. Be sure the pigtail of the spring is properly aligned and seated in the rubber isolator.
With the MM upper spring perch...
With the MM upper spring perch assembly already in place here, the strut shaft will protrude through the center hole of the perch. Place the caster/camber plate assembly onto the strut shaft by slipping the shaft through the spherical bearing. Be careful not to dislodge the tapered spacers from the bearing.
Another tapered spacer is...
Another tapered spacer is put into place before the nut is installed. Then reinstall the upper strut retaining nut and washer (if used) and torque to the strut manufacturer's recommended value. If using stock Ford, Koni, or Tokico struts (twin-tube), torque to 45 lb-ft. For Bilstein, Edelbrock, or H&R struts (inverted mono-tube), torque to 54 lb-ft. If a spring compressor was used, slowly release spring tension and remove the compressor from the strut. While loosening the compressor, be sure that both spring pigtails are properly located in both the lower spring perch and on the upper rubber isolator. The strut and spring assembly with the caster/camber plate in place is now ready to be reinstalled into the car.
Before installing the strut,...
Before installing the strut, check the bottom of the tower for any raised metal flashing. File or sand down any detected rough areas. The bottom of the tower must be smooth to allow the plate to slide freely during alignment procedures. Reinstall the strut into the car, being careful to orient the notch on the caster/camber plate toward the outboard side of the car.
Snug all five nuts on the...
Snug all five nuts on the MM caster/camber plate.
Reinstall the bolts that hold...
Reinstall the bolts that hold the strut to the spindle and torque them to 148 lb-ft. Reattach the brake-line bracket and the ABS sensor wire as well as the sway-bar endlink to the strut; torque the sway-bar link to 85 lb-ft. Loosen the five nuts on the plate slightly until the plate can barely slide in its adjustment slots. Slide the plate forward and torque the 10mm nut to 26 lb-ft. Then center the strut shaft in the strut-tower opening. Once centered, torque the 8mm nuts to 20 lb-ft. Complete the installation with a front-end alignment. Be sure to pass on to the alignment shop the important information contained in the MM instruction sheet.
Install the forward 8mm nuts...
Install the forward 8mm nuts and washers, which has already been done here, and thread them on until the tips of the bolts touch the Nylok portion of the nut. Then place this support bracket onto these two studs. The bracket should be oriented toward the outboard side of the car. Install the remaining nuts and washers, including a 10mm nut on the large stud that protrudes through the support bracket.