1965 200ci Six-Cylinder Engine Buildup - How To Rebuild A 200ci Six

This is the end result of Jeff's efforts - a fresh Load-O-Matic distributor ready for action. We like the caliber of the new Motorcraft ignition parts from National Parts Depot - heavy-duty breaker arm bushing and large contact points for less resistance. Jeff lubes the cam, gaps the points, and checks the advance for proper operation. Gary understands the value of a PerTronix Ignitor electronic conversion, but wants the authenticity of ignition points for his historic '65 World's Fair Mustang.

The cylinder head goes on next. Head bolts are torqued to 70-75 ft. lbs. per the torque pattern in the Ford Shop Manual. Always lubricate bolts and holes first. Use a light coat because too much oil in the bolt holes can crack your block.

Ryan installs the crankshaft front oil seal. The seal's outside perimeter needs a super-thin film of The Right Stuff. The inside lip requires plenty of engine assembly lube once installed to prevent burn-up during start-up. It is return oil that lubricates this seal, hence the urgency for it to be wet.

The timing cover is installed next. Ryan uses a Fel-Pro gasket and a super thin film of The Right Stuff. Our goal here is no leaks.

Gary sent us a new-old-stock Ford water pump, which is great for authenticity. Our only concern is the water pump seal, which may be deteriorated from age.

Unlike 289/302 Fords, both the FE big-blocks and 170/200 inline sixes have shaft-mounted rocker arms. Lubrication comes not through the pushrods but instead through pedestals and shaft. Pedestal positioning must be exact or the rocker arms won't get oil. This is an adjustable rocker arm assembly, which applied mostly to mechanical lifters. These engines came with both adjustable and non-adjustable rocker arms. The only thing available at press time is the adjustable rocker arms and cup-style pushrods.

Never install a new oil pump right out of the box. Open it up carefully and check rotor side clearances. Then fill the G-rotor cavity with engine assembly lube or 30-weight engine oil for immediate oil pressure on start-up. Fill the pan with 30-weight oil for proper break-in. Never remove the pump rotors, which could disturb the rotor indexing.

Unless you are running a dual-roller timing set, the oil slinger goes back in. Dual roller timing sets collide with oil slingers, making them a bad idea in high-performance applications.

Ryan checks the oil pump pick-up to pan clearance. You need at least .060-inch. National Parts Depot sent us this new reproduction oil pan, which yielded a perfect fit. The Right Stuff goes between the gasket and block only. You will want it in the corners where the pan rail gaskets meet the neoprene end gaskets. Just a thin film is all that's necessary because there's no sealing benefit when it oozes out.

While researching our Carburetor Identification article elsewhere in this issue, we learned that Gary has the wrong carburetor for a '65 Mustang with automatic transmission. Pony Carburetors graciously rebuilt this core for us, which is actually a '67 Autolite 1100 due to its anti-stall dashpot on the left side. It also has a spark control valve (looks like a Holley/Autolite power valve) designed for Load-O-Matic distributors.

Freeze plugs, also known as Welsh plugs, are installed using a thin film of The Right Stuff around perimeters. Ryan stressed brass plugs, never steel, because steel plugs will corrode and rust through. For absolute security, use JB Weld on brass freeze plugs instead of sealer.

Gary's original Carter fuel pump is badly pitted and will have to be replaced. Garrett Marks at Mustangs Etc. is searching for a good core at press time.