Cam retainer bolts are torqued...
Cam retainer bolts are torqued next. These are Grade 8 fasteners torqued to 12-15 ft. lbs. using high temperature Loc-Tite thread locker.
So how do you adjust them when you have hydraulic lifters? JGM showed us how. With both valves closed at top-dead-center of the compression/ignition stroke, tighten the adjustment until there's no rocker arm play. Then slowly tighten the adjustment and watch the lifter piston. You want one-half travel, which doesn't take much adjustment. Never go further than one-half travel or you risk valve to piston contact. What's more, engines don't run very well when valves don't seat. If you've decided to go with a mechanical camshaft, valve lash is 0.022-inch cold and 0.018-inch hot.
Paint It Right
In our travels, we see Mustang engine compartments that haven't been treated to the right colors and finishes. National Parts Depot set us up with the correct engine paint finishes. Most Mustang restorers use Duplicolor or Krylon engine paint for spot-on accuracy in terms of color and proper finish. We're using Seymour Hi-Tech Engine Coating, a heat-resistant satin black for block and head, which is also acceptable.

Degreeing a camshaft is mandatory...

Degreeing a camshaft is mandatory with high-performance engines. However, it is also a must for all engines if you're interested in both performance and engine life. In 35 years of engine building, we've never seen a camshaft spot-on out of the box. Cam timing and piston indexing are crucial to proper operation.

Check true top-dead-center...

Check true top-dead-center and cam timing. Then, adjust cam timing accordingly, either advancing or retarding valve timing to improve performance. And be prepared to return a camshaft that doesn't measure up.

Our Speed Pro timing set is...

Our Speed Pro timing set is next with timing marks at 2 and 8 o'clock (versus 12 and 6 with a V-8). The cam bolt is torqued to 35-45 ft. lbs. There's always speculation about using the crankshaft oil slinger. Unless you are running a dual-roller high-performance timing set, use the oil slinger, which keeps excessive amounts of oil away from the front seal, plus the obvious lubrication benefit because it slings oil around the timing set.

Earlier, we mentioned blue...

Earlier, we mentioned blue Viton valve seals for long engine life and terrific oil control. Your cylinder head will have to be machined to accept Viton seals.

We've already milled the block...

We've already milled the block deck. The last step in a valve job is milling cylinder head deck surfaces. Always have the block and cylinder head decks checked for warpage to ensure a solid seal void of gaps and potential hot spots. Milling the head and block decks reduces combustion chamber size and compression height, which increases compression.

Ryan assembles Gary's cylinder...

Ryan assembles Gary's cylinder head using new retainers, springs, and locks. Valve stems are lubricated with engine assembly lube prior to assembly. You want them dripping wet with lubrication for that first fire-up.

JGM takes great pains to check...

JGM takes great pains to check each cylinder head for proper valve sealing with a vacuum pump. If a solid vacuum isn't achieved, the cylinder head comes apart to determine why.

Cylinder head gasket installation...

Cylinder head gasket installation is next. Ryan checks to be sure the block and head deck surfaces are hospital clean before installation. This is a Fel-Pro Print-O-Seal head gasket from National Parts Depot. It provides a perfect seal around cooling passages and cylinder bores. It is up to you to provide clean, properly machined surfaces.

This is the end result of...

This is the end result of Jeff's efforts - a fresh Load-O-Matic distributor ready for action. We like the caliber of the new Motorcraft ignition parts from National Parts Depot - heavy-duty breaker arm bushing and large contact points for less resistance.