Marlon Mitchell of Marlo's...
Marlon Mitchell of Marlo's Frame & Alignment in Los Angeles begins his alignment regiment with ride height measurement in all four corners. Ride height, especially in front, has a certain effect on alignment. Marlon is one of the rare technicians who performs alignments the old-fashioned way-without computers and lasers.
You may Not realize it but front-end alignment has the greatest effect on how your Mustang feels to steer and drive. When alignment is spot on and your Mustang is tracking properly, it yields a confident feeling. By the same token, when alignment is off, it can make your Mustang driving experience miserable and unsafe. What is front-end alignment and why is it so important?
Marlon Mitchell of Marlo's...
Marlon Mitchell of Marlo's Frame & Alignment in Los Angeles begins his alignment regiment with ride height measurement in all four corners. Ride height, especially in front, has a certain effect on alignment. Marlon is one of the rare technicians who performs alignments the old-fashioned way-without computers and lasers.
Front-end alignment is an old term. These days, most reputable shops do what's known as a computerized four-wheel alignment to check tracking in all four corners. This is performed by a sophisticated computer alignment system where all four tires/wheels are called into accountability. All four should be tracking in concert for the best vehicle stability. Because Mustangs have a live rear axle (except late-model Cobras with independent rear suspension), there's not much you can do with rear axle alignment except check installation and integrity. If you have a rear end alignment problem, it means something's amiss with the leaf springs, axle housing, or unit body.
Marlon Mitchell of Marlo's Frame & Alignment in Chatsworth, California, has been in the alignment business most of his life. When a customer delivers a car, Marlon test-drives it first to get a feel for how the car is tracking before making adjustments. What may surprise you is his technique. Marlon does not have modern computer-aided alignment equipment. He does it the old-fashioned way with bubble alignment fixtures and a preset rod for checking toe. This approach, coupled with experience, enables Marlon to achieve exceptional alignment results. He is also able to check rear end alignment with his equipment.
Positive caster is when upper...
Positive caster is when upper ball joints trail the lowers. This is what you want, although not as extreme as this illustration.
There are three basic alignment elements-caster, camber, and toe-that affect a Mustang's relationship with the pavement. Camber is the tire angle as it relates to the pavement from a 12/6 o'clock perspective. In other words, is your Mustang bow-legged or knock-kneed? When alignment is correct, a Mustang will have just a pinch of negative camber (knock-kneed), usually around 1/2 degree, because the tread should remain in full contact with the pavement in turns. Racers and canyon cutters want even more negative camber to keep the tread solidly in contact with the pavement during hard turns. If there is positive camber, or bow-leggedness, you're going to get into the tire sidewalls in turns. As a rule, automakers design a certain amount of positive camber into the cornering process to induce understeer to help keep motorists out of trouble.
Caster is an element of steering...
Caster is an element of steering spindle angle between upper and lower ball joints. Negative caster is when the upper ball joint leads the lower. This is what you don't want. You want just a little bit of positive caster per factory specifications.
Caster is the spindle angle as it relates to upper and lower ball joints, just like a caster on a rollaway tool chest. This is known as the steering pivot axis. If the axis is tipped so the upper ball joint is ahead of the lower, this is known as negative caster. If the upper ball joint is behind the lower, this is known as positive caster. Mustangs need only a small amount of positive caster to perform nicely in a straight line. If this doesn't make sense to you, think about what happens to the casters when we push a rollaway tool chest across the garage. Which way do the casters articulate? They tend to trail the pivot point, or steering pivot axis, which becomes positive caster.
Caster/Camber Adjustment
Through the years, Ford has improved how front-end alignment is performed. First generation '65-'66 Mustangs are antiquated, using shims of various thicknesses between the upper control arms and shock towers to achieve caster and camber. Today's front-end alignment technicians dread to see these dinosaurs arrive because they know they will have to earn their bacon. Classic Mustangs are more time consuming for alignment shops because shims have to be added or taken away to adjust upper control arm angle, thereby changing camber and/or caster.
This is an extreme example...
This is an extreme example of negative camber. You want just a pinch of negative camber (see specifications for your particular Mustang) for good cornering, which keeps the tire tread in full contact with the pavement.
Your Mustang's two front axle...
Your Mustang's two front axle spindles operate on two basic dimensions-camber and caster. Camber is the spindle's 12/6 o'clock angle between the fender and pavement. Caster is the relationship between upper and lower ball joints.
With '65-'66 Mustangs, shims...
With '65-'66 Mustangs, shims are added to push the upper control arm outward to move toward positive camber. Although most alignment specialists use pry bars to adjust the upper control arms, there are Ford-recommended specialized tools designed to screw the arm in or out, taking the violence out of a front-end alignment. That's what is shown in this and following illustrations. This jackscrew adjustment tool enables a technician to get Mustang alignment spot-on without abusing the shock towers.
The upper control arm is moved...
The upper control arm is moved inboard by removing shims to get negative camber. Strut rods on '65-'66 Mustangs are fixed and not adjustable.
Caster is adjusted by added...
Caster is adjusted by added or subtracting shims to move the upper ball joint fore or aft to place it either ahead or behind the lower ball joint. When adding shims to the front or rear control arm bolt, the arm angle is modified, which moves the upper ball joint forward or backward.
For '67-'73, Ford came up...
For '67-'73, Ford came up with a better idea-lower control arms that adjust via an eccentric to move the lower arm in or out. Move the arm out to achieve negative camber. Move it in to get positive camber. The downside to this eccentric is movement when you hit a pothole. It could move, causing an unwanted change in camber.
Ball joints should be checked...
Ball joints should be checked for wear by supporting the Mustang at the framerail and applying pressure by moving the tire upward. If you feel clunking (play), the upper ball joint is most likely the culprit. Upper ball joints wear out much faster than lowers. Lower ball joints are always replaced with the lower control arm, which must be serviced as a unit.
Caster is adjusted on '67-'73...
Caster is adjusted on '67-'73 Mustangs by moving the strut rods fore or aft, which moves the lower control arm fore or aft to position the lower ball joint ahead or behind the upper ball joint. Instead of moving the upper control arm like '65-'66, the lower is moved for '67-'73. The use of urethane bushings may stiffen up front-end alignment, however, you risk breaking the strut rod. This is why polyurethane or rubber bushings are suggested.
One solution for '67-'73 Mustangs...
One solution for '67-'73 Mustangs that suffer from camber adjustment woes is camber blocks, available from Total Control Products. They lock in camber adjustment, making it virtually impossible to ruin camber unless you hit a fire hydrant.
You can eliminate this ancient shim process with some of the aftermarket performance suspension systems from Total Control Products, Global West, Ron Morris Performance, and Heidt's. All have adjustable Heim joints that do away with shims entirely. These systems stay in proper alignment and improve handling.
Toe-In, Toe-Out
Toe is a fundamental of your Mustang's steering linkage. To steer precisely and predictably, your Mustang should have a very minute amount of toe-in, meaning both front tires pointed ever-so-slightly inward with the wheel centered, which allows the steering wheel to return smoothly to center after a turn. With too much toe-in, they will return too quickly to center. By the same token, toe-out has the opposite effect. Return to center in a turn will be sluggish to the point that you have to help the wheel return to center. That takes the pleasure out of your driving experience. Either way, with too much toe-in or toe-out, tires will scrub and wear increases proportionally. Excessive toe-in causes heavy wear along the tire's outboard edges. Too much toe-out causes wear along the inside.
Toe is adjusted by moving...
Toe is adjusted by moving tie-rod ends in or out to change the tire/wheel angle. Marlon uses a fixed rod to measure toe, which ensures accuracy.
If toe-in or toe-out causes tire wear, why isn't a Mustang's toe neutral? The reason is stability. There is a finite amount of toe-in, expressed in degrees from parallel, to improve a Mustang's stability while going in a straight line. With a small amount of toe-in, steering input feels confident and sure without being too sensitive. In fact, toe-in makes steering more predictable because the steering wheel wants to remain centered. When toe is dialed in to factory specifications, there should be no wandering whatsoever unless there's a significant crown in the road or high wind.
Toe-out is another story. With toe-out, your Mustang wants to steer right or left and steering becomes very sensitive. Racers tend to like toe-out for this reason. They know they're going to get quick response in turns with a certain amount of toe-out.
Before an alignment is performed, have your alignment technician check ball joints, tie-rod ends, idler and Pitman arms for excessive wear. Upper and lower control arm bushings, plus spring perch bushings, must also be checked for wear. When these items are excessively worn, your Mustang will not remain in alignment. In fact, alignment settings will change the minute you hit the road.
Caster and camber for '74-'78 Mustangs are adjusted by moving the upper control arms. The strut rods are fixed and cannot be adjusted. Instead of shims or eccentrics, Ford got smarter by having an upper control arm that can be adjusted, then locked down. The upper control arm angle can be changed to adjust caster. Move the upper control arm in or out to change camber.
When the Mustang switched to a McPherson strut front suspension in 1979, alignment changed forever because it eliminates the upper control arm. McPherson struts are fully adjustable on top, so caster and camber angles can be changed by moving the strut and control arm. Once the strut is properly adjusted, it's locked down. Toe is adjusted the same conventional way as first generation Mustangs despite the use of rack and pinion steering and adjustable rod ends.
For complete '65-'09 Mustang alignment specifications, go to our website at www.mustangmonthly.com.
The Ford Shop Manual makes...
The Ford Shop Manual makes it easy to get toe correct by telling you what to do at the steering wheel. No matter what any alignment shop will tell you, the steering wheel must be fixed at 12 o'clock to get toe correct. Loosely centered doesn't cut it.
Toe is adjusted by screwing...
Toe is adjusted by screwing the tie-rod ends in or out. There is a special tool for this purpose, or you can use a humble pair of Channel Locks.
A Word About Idler Arms
...
A Word About Idler Arms
Did you know idler arms are supposed to be stiff? Because original Mustang steering systems were old and worn out the first time they were replaced, it was easy to assume their stiff factory idler arms were junk. However, this isn't true. The original idler arm was stiff because it was designed to snap the steering back to center after a turn. Aftermarket idler arms roll smoothly from side to side because that's the way they're designed. That doesn't pose any danger. However, expect your Mustang's steering to be more sluggish.
Blueprint For Integrity
...
Blueprint For Integrity
Because Marlon Mitchell has specialized in Mustangs for most of his career as a front-end alignment technician, he knows the Mustang's weaknesses. That's why Marlon has created his own special brand of front-end parts for Mustangs known as Blueprint front-end parts. Check out his Blueprint upper and lower control arms and you will see why. They yield flexibility, yet security, unmatched by anyone who makes reproduction Mustang front-end parts. Marlon has engineered these parts to eliminate most of Ford's original shortcomings.
Do you see the difference...
Do you see the difference in this Blueprint upper control arm from Fly-Ford Racing? This is Marlon's own brand of grassroots engineering with super-tough, oil-impregnated upper shaft bushings that articulate with the arm, offering a smoothness never seen by original-style arms. There's no stiffness, just smooth operation. If you're concerned about having an original look, these upper control arms pass the test because the improvements are challenging to see once installed.
Check out this Blueprint upper...
Check out this Blueprint upper control arm spring perch. No flimsy rubber around steel here. Instead, there are oil-impregnated bushings and tool steel shaft with grease fitting for easy serviceability and long life.
Ford suggests a specific tie-rod...
Ford suggests a specific tie-rod coupling angle to prevent slipstream noise underneath and to ensure alignment security.
Blueprint lower control arms...
Blueprint lower control arms get tool steel inside urethane bushings for solid function without compromising road quiet.