When we began Project Reclaim from Mustangs Plus and The Restomod Shop, we envisioned cleverly appointed fastback air extractors to dress out the roofline. However, we weren't pleased with the outcome, so Terry Simpson from The Restomod Shop and Bill Faull of Mustangs Plus reverted to the time-honored and practical Shelby quarter windows. Traditionally, Mustang fastbacks have always looked great with Shelby quarter windows from Tony D. Branda Performance. It is a time-proven modification originally inspired by Shelby American on the '66 GT350s. It remains popular today.
We will tell you going in that this is not an easy installation. It involves cutting the fastback's air extractor body structure, which can test your fabrication skills. For this article, there were no better persons to tackle this tough task than Terry Simpson and Richard Bramlett from The Restomod Shop. Both gentlemen knew what needed to be done and how to do it.
 This is the #QWK1 '66 Shelby...  This is the #QWK1 '66 Shelby Quarter Window Kit from Tony D. Branda Performance. Priced at $274.95, it's money well spent for a '65-'66 fastback project. Installation is not easy, but worth it if you take your time and do it right. |  The fastback air extractor...  The fastback air extractor webbing must be cut out to make way for Shelby quarter windows..... |  .....It is important not to...  .....It is important not to cut out too much and compromise body structure integrity. Keep the sandwiched and spot-welded seams, which means don't go too far. |
 Seams should be finished off...  Seams should be finished off nice and smooth with a coat of primer to prevent corrosion. Had we known we were installing Shelby quarter windows, we would have done this during the bodywork before paint. |  Interior body structure also...  Interior body structure also needs to be trimmed as shown to make way for trim pieces. |  Fit is challenging because...  Fit is challenging because no two Mustang bodies are identical. We're also working with extruded aluminum, which is rarely easy. Terry Simpson begins with a mock trim fit where the molding is fitted before permanent installation. Both bottom and top pieces are checked for fit at this time. |
 Once a snug fit is established,...  Once a snug fit is established, Terry drills rivet holes and temporarily rivets the trim using..... |  .....an aluminum rivet because...  .....an aluminum rivet because steel is much harder to drill out. By the way, be sure to protect the paint. |  The upper half of the trim...  The upper half of the trim is test fitted to determine where it must be trimmed for proper fit. |
 The molding is carefully trimmed...  The molding is carefully trimmed to allow just enough gap between the upper and lower halves. You want at least an .060-inch gap to allow for expansion in the hot sun. If you don't trim for sufficient gap, the aluminum trim will expand in the heat and could buckle. |  Not only does extruded aluminum...  Not only does extruded aluminum trim need to be massaged, so does the Plexiglas window. Because this window is made of soft plastic, it scratches easily. It's a good idea to leave the protective covering intact during installation. |  Window seal is installed using...  Window seal is installed using WD-40 as a lubricant. Because WD-40 evaporates,.... |
 .....it makes a good temporary...  .....it makes a good temporary lubricant. Expect the molding fit around the Plexiglas to be tight. |  We're going with cool interior...  We're going with cool interior trim panels from Mustangs Plus. This means special trimming required just like you would with a factory trim panel. Begin with a straight edge from the window frame to the trim panel and mark accordingly. |  The panel is marked with masking...  The panel is marked with masking tape and trimmed with a razor blade. Be careful and keep trimming..... |
 .....minimal at first. You...  .....minimal at first. You can always cut more, but you can never get back what you've cut. |  Terry and Richard found the...  Terry and Richard found the razor knife challenging, so they switched to this reciprocating saw to fine tune the cut. |  The window assembly is carefully...  The window assembly is carefully fitted in place to where all rivet holes line up. This sounds easy, but it isn't. This is a very tight fit requiring exceptional caution. Terry is using 3M rope caulk between the molding and body to keep water and dust out. |
 Terry leans hard on the molding...  Terry leans hard on the molding to get the proper rivet hole alignment while Richard installs steel pop rivets inside. Richard places cloth between the rivet gun and Plexiglas to prevent damage. |  Molding end caps are carefully...  Molding end caps are carefully popped into place. It is easy to damage paint, so caution is crucial. |  A razor blade is used to trim...  A razor blade is used to trim away excess weatherstrip. Take care not to damage Plexiglas. |
 Inside fiberglass trim is...  Inside fiberglass trim is installed next, with Terry first determining where the rivet holes will be. You can also use stainless steel trim screws. Before the inside trim goes on, paint the areas just inside the window flat black to hide imperfections. Ideally, interior trim will fit flush with the Plexiglas. |  This is the way your finished...  This is the way your finished Shelby quarter window should look. Extruded aluminum moldings are flush with the sail panel and Plexiglas isn't warped or wavy. | |