It's always beneficial when you can make improvements that aren't obvious at a glance. A 22-gallon stainless steel fuel tank, manufactured by Scott Drake Enterprises and available from Virginia Classic Mustang, gives your Mustang both cruising distance and corrosion resistance, which means no more fuel tank rust out if your Mustang sits a long time between outings. This is an easy retrofit that no one knows is there except you and your Mustang. We're also going to make this invisible modification safer with Tank Armor from Antioch Mustang Stable.
The Drake stainless steel fuel tank is also available in a 16-gallon size for '65-'68 Mustangs as well as 20-gallon for '69. To get 22-gallon capacity, all you need to do is a minor modification to the fuel filler tube and fuel tank neck for a perfect fit. Tank Armor is an easy modification, as invisible as the fuel tank upgrade, that makes a Mustang safer because it keeps fuel outside the trunk and interior in the unlikely event of a rear-end collision.
The Drake stainless steel fuel tank is a class act so good you don't have to do anything cosmetically. It is highly polished stainless steel right out of the box. The fuel sending unit is also corrosion-resistant stainless steel.
Scott Drake's fuel tank offers...
Scott Drake's fuel tank offers outstanding corrosion resistance and great looks because it's made from polished stainless steel. We're installing the 22-gallon version for extra fuel capacity, along with a new stainless fuel gauge sending unit.
Here are two examples of fuel...
Here are two examples of fuel sending units for Mustangs. On the left is a sending unit for '65-'68 Mustangs with the factory 16-gallon tank. On the right is a sending unit for a '70 Mustang with a 22-gallon tank. Note the longer float arm for the 22-gallon tank. Truth is you can use the 16-gallon sender on a 22-gallon. It just stays on "Full" longer.
Tank Armor provides protection...
Tank Armor provides protection for your Mustang's fuel tank should you toss a bowling ball in your trunk or a grocery bag full of canned cling peaches. Remember, in '65-'70 Mustangs, the fuel tank is also the trunk floor. Tank Armor also reduces the risk of interior fire should an unthinkable rear end collision occur. The idea is to isolate the fuel tank underneath the car with heavy steel armor plate using bolts instead of factory-style sheetmetal screws. This is
Tank Armor for a 16-gallon tank
, which we installed a number of years ago in Mustang Monthly.
Because we did such a good...
Because we did such a good job of installing our 16-gallon tank and Tank Armor, removal will be real work. The fuel tank has been drained. It will take two people (one above and one below) to remove the bolts and locknuts.
The fuel hose is disconnected...
The fuel hose is disconnected at the sending unit along with the sender connection. We're going to use high-pressure, additive-resistant fuel hose for fuel injection, which will last longer and be safer. One snag on this project-a 5/16-inch body fuel line and a 3/8-inch sender because all fuel lines were 3/8-inch in 1970. We will have to replace body fuel lines and fuel pump.
The fuel filler tube and hose...
The fuel filler tube and hose are removed next using a 5/16-inch socket or common screwdriver.
The pop-open gas cap is removed...
The pop-open gas cap is removed with a Phillips head screwdriver. An anti-theft security nut is removed inside using a 3/8-inch socket. If you're running a reproduction gas cap, you will need a 10mm socket for the security bolt.
Our 16-gallon Tank Armor is...
Our 16-gallon Tank Armor is removed and will be used as a drilling template for the 22-gallon Tank Armor. Despite our best efforts there, we still had hole alignment problems.
With Tank Armor removed, you...
With Tank Armor removed, you can see why this safety feature is necessary in classic Mustangs. Tank Armor protects the fuel tank, which is also the trunk floor. It also affords you some level of protection should a rear end collision occur, keeping fuel outside of the passenger cabin. Because each and every collision is different, there are no guarantees, but it improves your odds.
The galvanized steel 16-gallon...
The galvanized steel 16-gallon tank is lifted out.
Our Drake stainless steel...
Our Drake stainless steel 22-gallon tank is fitted with its sender. It's a good idea to lightly lube the O-ring with white grease for both lubrication and staying power. Then, seat the sender and install the retaining ring. Make sure all three tabs are locked underneath the tank tabs.
The 22-gallon tank is positioned...
The 22-gallon tank is positioned and checked for mounting hole alignment. It's a nice piece in polished stainless.
For installation of the 22-gallon...
For installation of the 22-gallon tank in a '65-'68 Mustang, you will need to use that generation's fuel filler neck. However, because the 22-gallon tank is taller, you will have to cut approximately 11/2-inches off the neck at the tank.
We decided to add mounting...
We decided to add mounting holes to both the fuel tank and Tank Armor. Here, pilot holes are drilled first for accuracy, then a 5/16-inch hole. If you want to give yourself some wiggle room, drill 3/8-inch holes and use flat washers on your fasteners.
Our Tank Armor has been sprayed...
Our Tank Armor has been sprayed with corrosion-resistant Cold Galvanizing from Rust Oleum. Fit has been checked and we're ready to install hardware. We strongly suggest the use of 5/16-inch Grade 5 or Grade 8 bolts, lock nuts, and flat washers. The Tank Armor kit comes with 1/4-inch bolts with locknuts and flat washers. Don't use the factory-style sheetmetal screws.
Here's the installed 22-gallon...
Here's the installed 22-gallon tank with Tank Armor. Based on what we learned from this installation experience, install the fuel filler hose before the Tank Armor.
We've cut the '67-'68 fuel...
We've cut the '67-'68 fuel filler tube 11/4-inches to create a 1/2-inch gap between tube and neck. The neck has been bent ever so slightly toward the front of the car to align with the filler tube.
During this installation,...
During this installation, we learned that there are some filler tube/hose clearance issues with Tank Armor and a larger-than-factory 22-gallon tank in a '65-'68 Mustang. Again, install the filler hose before Tank Armor or trim the Tank Armor before installation.
The filler hose clamps can...
The filler hose clamps can be positioned any number of ways.....
....Here are two. Due to clearance...
....Here are two. Due to clearance issues with Tank Armor, we are limited to one way on the bottom clamp.
Completed installation looks...
Completed installation looks like this. We have six more gallons of driving range and a safer installation.
Because today's automotive...
Because today's automotive fuels are hard on fuel systems, we suggest using high-pressure fuel injection hose at the sender and where the two body lines join. You should also hard line your fuel system between the pump and carburetor. If you can't, use high-pressure fuel injection hose there along with quality worm gear clamps.
Pop-open gas caps were a clever...
Pop-open gas caps were a clever idea for their time but are unsafe. With reproduction pop-open gas caps, you can opt for the spring-loaded cap or improve safety with a fit and twist, which is safer because it's less likely to pop open in a collision. The pop-open feature then becomes a fuel door.
Polished stainless looks sharp...
Polished stainless looks sharp underneath and from behind.