How To Install Rack-And-Pinion Steering On Your 1965-1970 Mustang

The first order of business is to remove the factory steering linkage. With the engine out for a swap, the bolts are accessible from the engine compartment.

For '65-'67 Mustangs, the steering gear box and shaft must be removed, so start the process by removing the steering wheel and column from inside the car.

Without engine interference, the steering gear and shaft, with steering linkage still connected, slides out of the car easily. Note that '65-'67 Mustangs have a long, solid steering shaft. For '68-'70 models, you'll need to disconnect the rag joint between the steering shaft and gearbox.

The factory crossmember must be removed as well. It will not be reused, with the crossmember for the Randall's rack-and-pinion serving the same purpose of strengthening the front end.

The Randall's rack slides into position under the car. Position the side brackets inside the frame and you'll see how they use the original steering linkage mounting holes.

With the supplied grade-8 bolts and nuts loosely installed...

...the brackets will look like this on the inner framerails.

Trimming the steering column and shaft is the most difficult part of the rack installation. The column cut is the easier part; for '65-'66 Mustangs, the tube is cut to a total length of 28-3/8 inches, measured from the collar at the steering wheel end. Use a file to smooth the edges once the cut is complete.

To prepare the factory steering shaft for Randall's connecting universal joints and intermediate shaft, measure 2-1/2 inches past the end of the shortened column tube, mark it, and cut. This is a critical part of the installation; if you cut too much, you'll be searching for a replacement shaft.

Continue modifying the original steering shaft by making a double-d shape for the last five inches. Classic Creations was able to accomplish this with their shop grinder. However, you may want to consider having all of the shaft modifications done by a competent machine shop.

With the steering shaft properly modified, the shaft coupler slides on like this. It is secured to the steering shaft by drilling a hole through the end of the shaft and installing the provided roll pin.

With the steering shaft reinstalled into the modified steering column, install the steering column adaptor over the shaft and into the tube, then secure with a screw after drilling a small hole in the column and adaptor.

The final connecting shaft installation should look like this.

Slide the firewall mount and seal over the end of the steering column. Merv used masking tape to hold them together during the column installation.

Slide the column through the firewall. It helps to have someone on the engine compartment side to guide the universal joints and intermediate shaft through.

Secure the column to the firewall with the supplied screws.

With the universal joints connected to the rack, adjust the intermediate shaft and tighten the bolts at both u-joints to secure.

Install the original inner tie rods to the rack-and-pinion center shaft. You'll need to turn the tie rods to adjust for length. For '65-'66 Mustangs, use the outer holes; for the longer '67-'70 tie rods, use the inner holes.

Now the brackets can be tightened at the framerails. Randall's provides instructions for centering the rack and the steering wheel. Front end alignment will be required.

Here's the final installation of the shaft-to-rack universal joints and shaft.

The Randall's power rack-and-pinion can be used with the factory power steering pump or this new aluminum pump, available from Randall's Rack and Pinion with a bracket to mount to Ford engines.