The Randall's rack-and-pinion...
The Randall's rack-and-pinion is mounted in a strong 1/4-inch steel crossmember, which not only provides support for the rack but also strengthens the Mustang front end. Grade-8 bolts mount the rack to the framerails using existing holes in the frame.
One of the most popular restomod-style modifications for '65-'70 Mustangs involves swapping out the factory worm-and-sector steering for modern rack-and-pinion, which provides tighter, quicker, and more precise steering. A number of systems are available that utilize factory mounting points, which makes installation quick and easy. The hardest part is measuring, cutting, and modifying the factory steering shaft and column to mate it to the rack-and-pinion.
Back in the December 2006 issue, we detailed the installation of a power rack from Randall's Rack and Pinion in a '68 Mustang. However, Randall's has recently upgraded its '65-'70 Mustang system to make installation easier than ever. Instead of utilizing a centerlink that connects to the outer tie rods via late-model, screw-on tie-rods, the new Randall's racks incorporate a revised centerlink that connects to the factory '65-'70 inner tie-rods. With two sets of mounting points, the same centerlink works for both '65-'66 and '67-'70 Mustangs.
This is the revised centerlink...
This is the revised centerlink now included with Randall's rack-and-pinion systems for '65-'70 Mustangs. It allows the use of the factory inner and outer tie rods instead of replacing them with late-model style tie rods. Two sets of mounting holes allow the centerlink to be used with both '65-'66 and '67-'70 Mustangs.
"We've switched to a new centerlink design that has some advantages over the first generation centerlink," says Randall LaRue, owner of Randall's Rack and Pinion. "The new centerlink is designed to retain the original inner and outer tie rods. In addition, the centerlink works on both '65-'66 and '67-'70 Mustangs. With our original design, we had two different length centerlinks depending on the year of the car. With this new centerlink, an owner is able to disconnect the inner tie rods while leaving the outer tie rods connected, install our rack-and-pinion, and then reconnect the inners to the new centerlink. This is an easier and simpler installation for customers versus the original design."
The rack itself is the same stout, dependable unit that is mounted to an 11/44-inch steel, one-piece crossmember that provides a secure mounting point for the rack while also helping to strengthen the front end. The package is protected from damage by the one-piece crossmember design, and the placement of the steering rack provides adequate clearance for both long- and short-tube headers.
The Randall's system can be used with or without an existing power steering pump, with lines included to connect to the original pump. If the Mustang is not equipped with power steering, Randall's offers a new aluminum pump with brackets and hoses for installation.
We installed the new Randall's rack on David Wall's '65 Mustang fastback while it was undergoing an engine swap at Classic Creations of Central Florida. Without an engine in the way, the rack installed easily without the need for a lift or jackstands. Classic Creations' Merv Rego and Dwayne Black removed the factory steering, then replaced it with the latest version of Randall's rack-and-pinion.
The first order of business...
The first order of business is to remove the factory steering linkage. With the engine out for a swap, the bolts are accessible from the engine compartment.
For '65-'67 Mustangs, the...
For '65-'67 Mustangs, the steering gear box and shaft must be removed, so start the process by removing the steering wheel and column from inside the car.
Without engine interference,...
Without engine interference, the steering gear and shaft, with steering linkage still connected, slides out of the car easily. Note that '65-'67 Mustangs have a long, solid steering shaft. For '68-'70 models, you'll need to disconnect the rag joint between the steering shaft and gearbox.
The factory crossmember must...
The factory crossmember must be removed as well. It will not be reused, with the crossmember for the Randall's rack-and-pinion serving the same purpose of strengthening the front end.
The Randall's rack slides...
The Randall's rack slides into position under the car. Position the side brackets inside the frame and you'll see how they use the original steering linkage mounting holes.
With the supplied grade-8...
With the supplied grade-8 bolts and nuts loosely installed...
...the brackets will look...
...the brackets will look like this on the inner framerails.
Trimming the steering column...
Trimming the steering column and shaft is the most difficult part of the rack installation. The column cut is the easier part; for '65-'66 Mustangs, the tube is cut to a total length of 28-3/8 inches, measured from the collar at the steering wheel end. Use a file to smooth the edges once the cut is complete.
To prepare the factory steering...
To prepare the factory steering shaft for Randall's connecting universal joints and intermediate shaft, measure 2-1/2 inches past the end of the shortened column tube, mark it, and cut. This is a critical part of the installation; if you cut too much, you'll be searching for a replacement shaft.
Continue modifying the original...
Continue modifying the original steering shaft by making a double-d shape for the last five inches. Classic Creations was able to accomplish this with their shop grinder. However, you may want to consider having all of the shaft modifications done by a competent machine shop.
With the steering shaft properly...
With the steering shaft properly modified, the shaft coupler slides on like this. It is secured to the steering shaft by drilling a hole through the end of the shaft and installing the provided roll pin.
With the steering shaft reinstalled...
With the steering shaft reinstalled into the modified steering column, install the steering column adaptor over the shaft and into the tube, then secure with a screw after drilling a small hole in the column and adaptor.
The final connecting shaft...
The final connecting shaft installation should look like this.
Slide the firewall mount and...
Slide the firewall mount and seal over the end of the steering column. Merv used masking tape to hold them together during the column installation.
Slide the column through the...
Slide the column through the firewall. It helps to have someone on the engine compartment side to guide the universal joints and intermediate shaft through.
Secure the column to the firewall...
Secure the column to the firewall with the supplied screws.
With the universal joints...
With the universal joints connected to the rack, adjust the intermediate shaft and tighten the bolts at both u-joints to secure.
Install the original inner...
Install the original inner tie rods to the rack-and-pinion center shaft. You'll need to turn the tie rods to adjust for length. For '65-'66 Mustangs, use the outer holes; for the longer '67-'70 tie rods, use the inner holes.
Now the brackets can be tightened...
Now the brackets can be tightened at the framerails. Randall's provides instructions for centering the rack and the steering wheel. Front end alignment will be required.
Here's the final installation...
Here's the final installation of the shaft-to-rack universal joints and shaft.
The Randall's power rack-and-pinion...
The Randall's power rack-and-pinion can be used with the factory power steering pump or this new aluminum pump, available from Randall's Rack and Pinion with a bracket to mount to Ford engines.