It seems like only yesterday that I was in the Grant Ford showroom in St. Petersburg, Florida, buying a new '85 Thunderbird. To lure then-young buyers like me, there were new Mustang GT hatchbacks and convertibles with 5.0L High Output engines on the showroom floor. Because I needed more room, I bought a Thunderbird instead. However, I never forgot those Mustangs with their soft duotone interiors with bolstered bucket seats and bold color piping.
In the years since, quite a few of these popular Fox-body Mustangs have survived because people love them for the same reasons a lot of us are fond of the older classics. They remind us of our youth and were also good-looking automobiles that fit the era. Foxes are a solid generation of Mustangs worth preserving and keeping.
Removing '85-'86 Mustang rear...
Removing '85-'86 Mustang rear seat isn't much different than '65-'73. Like the early classics, shove the seat bottom rearward and pull up. It is one large upholstered piece on both hatchback and convertible.
We're freshening up a well-worn '85 Mustang GT with a 5.0L and five-speed manual transmission. What makes the car a keeper is its rust-free Southern California condition and status as the last carbureted high-performance Mustang before Ford switched to fuel injection in 1986. Of course, the greatest challenge is finding parts for these cars because the restoration market is just starting to catch on to the demand. However, Latemodel Restoration Supply understands the value in restoring a Fox-body Mustang fun car because these cars remain plentiful and cheap. Latemodel Restoration Supply has a lot of genuine Ford and quality reproduction parts on hand for Fox classics.
We will tell you this is not a step-by-step guide to Fox-body seat reupholstering due to space limitations, but rather it's a general overview on what to expect when tackling your seat restoration project. Although there's a lot of evolution in seat design and construction, basics are the same as the older classics with hog rings and listing wire. There's just less of it. Where these seats differ greatly is their seatback pivot points with hinges that are a lot safer than what Ford used in the early classics. These are seats designed to better absorb impact in an accident, not to mention the comfort they yield because they do so much more than those early classic buckets.
Lancaster Auto Interiors in Lancaster, California, is going to freshen up our dated and worn-out Fox seats, which were the first of their kind in '85-comfy high-back buckets with side bolsters and good leg support. Although Latemodel Restoration Supply sells these upholstery kits, they're manufactured by TMI Products in Southern California. Few companies have done more for classic and classic Fox enthusiasts than Latemodel Restorations and TMI Products. Let's get started.

Folding hatchback rear seat...

Folding hatchback rear seat bottoms are attached via four bolts to hinges. Carpet is attached with two sheetmetal screws. Remove the screws, roll back the carpet, and remove the bolts. It's a good idea to scribe around the bolt washers for proper reinstallation.

Front bucket seats are secured...

Front bucket seats are secured to studs welded to the floorpan. There are four studs, two fore and two aft, on each bucket seat.

We're working with Robert...

We're working with Robert Rough of Lancaster Auto Interiors on Southern California's high desert above Los Angeles. First, Robert tackles our rear seat bottom, which is identical to a classic Mustang seat bottom, which is also hog-ringed around the perimeter. Cut the hog rings and the upholstery falls off.

Robert steams our seat foam...

Robert steams our seat foam to get it factory fat like it was 25 years ago, which will enable it to hug our new TMI upholstery for a firm fit.

The new TMI upholstery goes...

The new TMI upholstery goes right on. All we have to do is hog ring it in place around the perimeter.

There are no hog rings mid-seat...

There are no hog rings mid-seat like we find with the early classics.

Once the rear seat bottom...

Once the rear seat bottom upholstery is installed, Robert steams the foam. Heat and moisture cause the foam to expand for a perfect fit.

Rear fold-down seatbacks are...

Rear fold-down seatbacks are next. Robert removes the seatback release trim using a Phillip's head driver. Because these tend to be exposed to sunlight, they can crack and often need to be replaced.

The upholstery is retained...

The upholstery is retained to the plastic seat frame with plastic rivets, which are hidden beneath the fabric and carpet. Pop them out one at a time. We suggest buying replacement rivets at your nearest auto parts store.

Once the plastic rivets are...

Once the plastic rivets are out, the upholstery is easily rolled off as shown.

Carpet comes off the same...

Carpet comes off the same way by popping each of the plastic rivets.

Robert marks each rivet location...

Robert marks each rivet location to make installation easier.

Sometimes, carpet can give...

Sometimes, carpet can give you a stubborn fit. Robert gets after it with a heat gun, which yields flexibility enabling him to stretch the carpet in place.

Robert uses a staple gun to...

Robert uses a staple gun to secure carpeting around the perimeter.

Because the original listing...

Because the original listing wire is perfect, Robert is reusing it in our new TMI upholstery.

Just like early classic Mustang...

Just like early classic Mustang seats, the Fox-body upholstery is hog-ringed inboard.

Then the upholstery is rolled...

Then the upholstery is rolled over the outside to be secured.

Fabric is rolled over at the...

Fabric is rolled over at the perimeter. Where it gets tricky is rolling it over and securing it with the plastic rivets. This is why Robert marked the carpet to ascertain rivet location.

Mid-1980s Fox-body Mustang...

Mid-1980s Fox-body Mustang seats have completely different seat tracks than the classics. Instead of an adjustable wire turnbuckle connecting each track, they have a hidden linkage that ties the tracks. No adjustment is ever required. Remove four fasteners and lift the tracks off together.

Compared to vintage Mustangs,...

Compared to vintage Mustangs, Fox-bodies have improved seatback pivot points for solid security. Instead of a crude pivot pin that could shear, they have an ironclad hinge assembly with a return spring that also offers a recline feature. Remove two bolts on each side and the seatbacks remove with ease.

Robert busts all of the hog...

Robert busts all of the hog rings with diagonal cutting pliers and removes the seat upholstery. Be mindful of the thick listing wire through the seatback upholstery. At the bottoms, this listing wire is secured with factory clamps. Robert uses multiple hog rings to secure the wire. New seat foam is available for these seats, but our foam was in excellent condition.

Robert installs conventional...

Robert installs conventional listing wire across the top as shown.

Sides get that thick factory...

Sides get that thick factory listing rod down each side.

Robert measures across the...

Robert measures across the face of the foam in the seatback to get the material properly centered.

The upholstery is rolled down...

The upholstery is rolled down over the foam to be secured underneath. Original factory upholstery was secured with a zipper. The TMI upholstery is secured with hog rings.

Here's that thick listing...

Here's that thick listing rod. It secures as shown at the seat frame. Instead of the factory roll-clip, Robert goes with multiple hog rings, which work quite well.

The seat bottom follows the...

The seat bottom follows the same routine, secured with listing wire and hog rings like the early classics. Upholstery is secured with hog rings and a thicker listing rod (does the same thing as listing wire) on each side.

Upholstery isn't hog ringed...

Upholstery isn't hog ringed here on each side. Instead, TMI provides nylon plastic security strips that install like this. Just pull and slide them into place.

Seat extensions for added...

Seat extensions for added leg support are easy to recover. Two screws separate frame and upholstery. Once exposed, all you have to do is swap out upholstery.

The seat bottom is complete...

The seat bottom is complete and ready for reassembly with the seatback and track.