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 18 We used an old graphics...  18 We used an old graphics ruler to measure the gap for our Rim-Blow chrome strip. Our gap was a hair over 1/8 inch wide. Be sure to measure your wheel, as widths may vary.  19 After the final sand and...  19 After the final sand and measure, we scuffed the wheel with a Scotch-Brite pad and got it ready for paint.  20 We were lucky enough to...  20 We were lucky enough to have our nice original Rim-Blow (now headed for the Lazarus Project) to match paints from. For our final step, we went to Michael's Autobody in Winter Haven, Florida (863) 299-8122. Mike mixed up a custom batch of Sikkens base in light and dark brown for the top of the wheel.  21 The colors are custom,...  21 The colors are custom, but if you can find a Pantone PMS color guide (available at most art supply stores), you can use these color chips to match the brown (PMS 470 for the light basecoat and PMS 477 for the dark brown). Mike sprayed the base and let it sit for several minutes before going to the topcoat. This was mixed with some translucent black that allowed color from the base to bleed through.  22 We dust-coated the topcoat,...  22 We dust-coated the topcoat, then applied some of the topcoat mix to a cloth and gently rubbed it around the wheel. When we say gently, we mean it. In basecoat/clearcoat, the light brown base can be rubbed away if pushed too hard.  23 To tape off the woodgrain...  23 To tape off the woodgrain section, we used two pieces of 1/2-inch tape. Then we scuffed the back of the wheel again to get rid of any finger oils.  24 After the black basecoat...  24 After the black basecoat was applied and dried (less than 30 minutes), we carted the wheel home for taping. We are planning to clearcoat the wheel after the chrome tape is applied.  25 The chrome strip is actually...  25 The chrome strip is actually metal duct tape from the local hardware store. Even if you can find only the roll with writing on it, a quick swipe of lacquer thinner will remove the lettering. We used our art classes, a sharp X-Acto knife, and a drafting table to cut the strip to the exact size we needed.  26 We removed the backing...  26 We removed the backing from the metal tape, applied it to the wheel, and then burnished it down with a wooden stir stick. We then went back Michael's to apply the two coats of urethane semigloss clear.  27 The best tip we can give...  27 The best tip we can give for installing the Rim-Blow switch is to install both contact ends and meet in the middle top of the wheel, alternating sides as you go around the wheel. We used Super Glue to install the cover for the contact ends and to set the wires in their proper place.  28 Finis. The wheel is now...  28 Finis. The wheel is now ready for the open road and hours of enjoyment.
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