Pull!!!I'm prompted to write with reference to your February 2000 issue concerning parts availability and a parts wish list for vintage Mustangs.
I have a problem with the pull cups on the Deluxe door panels for a '69 Mach 1. The aftermarket plastic cups are incorrect, because they are not wide enough to accept the rubber pad that fits down inside the cup; they are not as long as the originals. Do you know if anyone else is going to reproduce/improve these cups or perhaps has the original metal cups?
I purchased a set of new aftermarket door panels and a set of plastic cups from a vendor that advertises in your magazine. The plastic cups are too short and do not fit in the openings on the new door panels, but my old metal cups (they are broken) do. I called the vendor about the problem, and I received another set with the same results, so it looks as though I'm forced to use my old cups. Is there a way to braise, glue, or weld the old cups back together with good results? How do the people who perform concours restorations of Mach 1s deal with this problem-find unbroken cups or make do with the plastic ones?
I've seen articles about replacement of Mach 1 door panels in the past. They always use the old cups as if they are not broken, but I know better. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Richard MillianEvergreen, CO
Use of original cups is obviously the best solution; however, repairing your cups may prove to be temporary at best. I've had some luck using 3M structural adhesive to bond the cup back together. This adhesive will hold as long as the doors are not closed with all of the owner's weight applied to the door cups. The only permanent repair could be to replace the cups with undamaged originals. Contact Gene Painter Door Panels at (864) 297-0342, since he has specialized in '69-'70 door panel repairs since the early '80s and is quite knowledgeable.
Torn UpI have recently been fortunate enough to acquire a '72 Mustang from California-not an old, rotten-floor Michigan car, but a really nice, rust-free car. One problem I have with it though is that the left rear shock top mount is torn out of the floorpan. If you are familiar with this, it is a tough location. I have seen and had other early '70s Fords (not Mustangs) with this problem. I fixed mine by patching in heavier metal crossmembers of my own making. I would rather fix this one as close to stock as possible. I have searched your magazine and Hemmings and found no one advertising a fix for this. So far, I've called four advertisers of sheetmetal repair panels, but I haven't come across anyone who even has a clue about this. I think this has to be fairly common, but I can't find help. Any info or advice on this?Doc DonaldsonSouth Lyon, MI
Even though we both have seen this problem before, it is really uncommon; therefore, a sheetmetal repair panel is not available. You will have to fabricate a panel of your own design and weld it into place. If you make your own, keep the repair panel as small and as simple as possible to aid in installation and for a cleaner appearance.
I usually end up with a simple plate with a heavy washer welded to it to serve as the shock mount point. The other alternative is to have that section of a junk Mustang cut out and trimmed to fit your car. The upper shock mount area is not prone to rust, so a good donor car should be easy to locate, even in your part of the country.
Stuck InI have a problem (or I will some day). My No. 4 spark plug in my 289-powered '66 Mustang is stuck. I am afraid to try too hard to get it out. It is not cross-threaded. I don't want to snap it off. I took it to an auto repair shop, but they would not try to get it out. Do you have any suggestions?Harold AndersonPalm Coast, FL
There really is no easy method or trick to help you remove a stubborn spark plug. The possibility of breaking off the hex area with the threaded portion remaining in the head is a real concern.