The sending unit resistance for all three gauges is the same. The following specs are listed in the Ford shop manuals: 60-86 ohms at the "low" or "empty" position-with 73 ohms considered ideal and 8-12 ohms at the "high" or "full" position-with 10 ohms considered most desirable.
With such large, acceptable tolerances, it's easy to see why Mustang instrument readings vary from one vehicle to another.
Automatically BetterI have a Mustang equipped with a manual transmission, but I really want to have an automatic installed. I've heard different things about the conversion, such as having to shorten the driveshaft and changing the front spline on the driveshaft, among other things. The shifter is on the floor, and there is no floor console with which to contend. So could you please set me straight and tell me if it's a straightforward installation or should I leave it to a pro? Also, are there any ocnversion kits that can be purchased? I really enjoy your informative magazine.Ruben Villalpandovia the Internet
Converting your vehicle from a manual transmission to an auto-matic is basically straightforward, since all the parts bolt in without any modifications. The driveshaft length and front splines are the same for both transmissions, as is the shifter location in the floor.
There are many parts involved-besides the obvious large items-such as the flywheel, the clutch, the bellhousing, and the transmission. The shifter should be purchased as a unit and must include its wiring harness for the indicator light and the neutral-safety switch. Be certain your radiator includes a transmission cooler in the lower tank, because you will have to run cooler lines from the automatic trans to a radiator cooler. Most large Mustang supply vendors offer used parts and will assemble a conversion kit for you. You may want to purchase a parts car, since most of the parts necessary can be used.
The swap is not too difficult for an average mechanic. The most difficult part is removing the clutch pedal and installing the automatic-style brake pedal-underdash work is always tedious.
Bad GasMy '65 Mustang convertible has been giving me a problem for quite some time now. I have asked a lot of experts and local mechanics, and some changes or corrections were made to the vehicle, but I still have the same problem. I wanted to find the solution before I sell the convertible; however, all of my efforts have failed.
The car is an A-code that now has a 289 V-8 with a 2V carb. The engine itself may be a '66, but I am not sure. There is a fuel filter in the front of the carb and another one on the fuel pump.
When I take the car for a ride, as soon as it reaches the normal temperature, the gas seems to heat up and cause vapor lock. The gas line between the fuel pump and the carb is very hot-so is the fuel pump. Previously, I thought that the gas was boiling up in the carb, so I installed a heavy gasket between the carb and the block, replacing the paper-thin gasket that was there. Now the heating seems to be occurring in the gas line.
One expert told me to remove the brace between the block and the gas line, because this may be the point that is transferring the heat-but I do not have the brace. Here are some of the other tasks I have performed: blew out the gas lines, installed a new gas tank, a new fuel pump and filters, a new coil, and a new regulator.
I am not sure about the thermostat, but the car doesn't seem to be overheating-it seems to run at the normal temperature. I would like to solve this problem as soon as possible, so I can advertise the car for sale. I certainly appreciate any help you may be able to give me.Richard G. IvoryUnion, NJ