Single To DualI'm interested in converting my "single" reservoir hydraulic brakes to the "dual" reservoir system, but I want to retain drums throughout.
Your "How To:" sections are great, and have helped me immeasurably with several home shop rebuilds (power steering, windows, etc.)
Can you tell me which Mustang Monthly issue covers the brake conversion? I have many back issues to go through-eight years or so. I'd appreciate your help and understanding.Stirling ParkersonLaurel, MS
We appreciate the kind words and are glad we've been of help in the past. As time goes on, more and more items become available for our old Mustangs as the market demand and manufacturing techniques allow for development. This is quite evident when it pertains to brakes, as many people prefer to update their Mustang brake systems to modern standards.
I'd suggest you contact Master Power Brakes at (704) 664-8866, as they offer complete kits to convert early style brakes to their more modern counterparts. I prefer to use kits whenever possible to eliminate any last-minute surprises and the aggravation associated with finding an obscure piece of hardware. A dual master cylinder is easily installed on an early Mustang as the bolt pattern on the firewall is the same for both single and dual master cylinders. Pushrod lengths will vary depending on the brand of master cylinder used. The plumbing must be changed so the rear brake circuit is separate from the front brake circuit. The factory incorporated a pressure differential block that contained a switch to illuminate a dashboard warning light should a brake failure occur. Utilization of this block will create the separate plumbing necessary.
If you don't care to have the warning lamp and aren't concerned with a bit of fabrication, you can easily install a stock '67 Mustang master cylinder. The stock pushrod can be modified to fit the dual master, and the rear brake system can be connected directly to the dual master cylinder with a length of 31/416-inch brake tubing and a brass union. The port that would remain open in the stock fitting on the engine bay apron can simply be plugged.
Hi-Po AheadI hope you can provide me with some clear advice. I have a '65 Hi-Po fastback, a true "K." My ground-up restoration of this beautiful Rangoon Red beast started over a decade ago (I originally bought the car from my oldest brother for $300 in 1978. I think he's still pissed for ever selling me the car!). This summer I plan to finally assemble enough of it to drive around the block and I don't want to make a mistake now.
My question focuses on the heads, in particular the pushrods and rockers. After reading my manuals and periodicals then listening to several Mustangers, machine shop guys, and my brother, I replaced the rocker-arm studs during the reconditioning of the heads and installed guide plates for use with a set of hardened pushrods. I planned to install a set of Crane aluminum roller rockers.
Recently, I heard and then read some information which conflicts with my plan. Can I (or should I) install hardened pushrods, guide plates and roller rockers on a set of HP original heads? Will the Crane rocker assembly need additional machine shop work for proper alignment? (Translation: Will this cost me another trip to the machine shop?). Or should I go with stock pushrods and steel rocker arms and avoid the hassle?
The machinist who performed the work on the heads told me I need a set of rollers with a 1.6 ratio for 31/48-inch studs. If it is possible to install roller rockers could you suggest a make and model best suited for my engine? And finally, I am aware that the installation of roller rockers means I'll have to purchase valve covers with extra clearance height.Wesley EllenwoodSaint Paul, MN