Intermittent Brake LightsMy question is about the brake lights in my '67 289 C-code, C4 auto Mustang. Last spring, I replaced the entire four-wheel manual-drum system from the master cylinder back, including new drums, wheel cylinders, and even stainless steel lines. Initially, my brake lights didn't work, so I replaced the brake-light switch. The lights now work, but only intermittently on the road. They're fine when the car is stopped and work with the engine both running and off, but they come on sometimes when stopping on the road. Could this be a short? I am uncomfortable not knowing if my brake lights work.Barry RutmanApple Valley, MN
I believe your brake lights work all the time as long as enough pressure is applied to the brake pedal to activate the switch. Some brake-liquid switches require a lot of pressure in order to work and do not function with the light pedal application typically used during low-speed, around-town driving. Apply the brakes hard while sitting still. Repeated applications should illuminate the brake lights every time.
Brake-light switches for power-brake-equipped vehicles require less pressure to operate, so a different switch may help cure your problem. I have removed the plastic bushing from the master cylinder's pushrod to the brake-pedal pivot to create more movement of the brake light; however, the installation of a power-brake switch is a better fix.
Looking For A MasterMy wife and I have a '66 coupe that needs some brake work. I think the master cylinder is going bad. I get a decent pedal when I pump the brakes, but the longer I sit in Drive with my foot on the pedal, the pedal gets soft and slowly sinks to the floor. There are no visible leaks at the calipers or wheel cylinders, so I'm figuring that leaves the master as the culprit.
My problem is I can't order a new master cylinder without knowing the build date of the car. We are at least the fourth owners, and the car has been in several accidents and minor restorations; therefore, I have no buildsheets. The doors have also been replaced, so I don't have a correct data plate either. The VIN is 6T07C195493. The car has a single reservoir with manual-disc brakes. Any help you could give in locating a new master cylinder would be greatly appreciated.Rich and Barbara WozencroftMedford, NY
Your diagnosis is correct. If there aren't leaks in the calipers, wheel cylinders, or the rest of the hydraulic circuit, there is an internal leak in the master cylinder causing the sinking brake pedal. The master cylinder is available from Cobra Automotive (203/284-3863). Early-car disc-brake master cylinders are the same, with small differences in the fitting area. Call Cobra Automotive with a description of the fitting, and your situation will be resolved.
Racer BossI have a '70 Boss 302 that I'm preparing for nostalgic road racing. I'm going to stroke the motor to 347 ci, which I know will increase torque. I was thinking about using Hooker Super Comp headers with 151/48-inch primaries. Would tri-Y headers for that dealer-installed look reduce performance much in conjunction with 211/42-inch pipes, X-crossover, and Flowmaster 50 Series three-chamber mufflers with 3-inch tailpipes? I will be adding roller-tipped rockers with needle-bearing fulcrums to use with the stock mechanical cam. The 780-cfm Holley has been replaced with a 735 of the same type, which should be sufficient.
I originally purchased a Hi-Po 289 clutch assembly from Ford before I thought about stroking. What do you suggest? I'll be keeping the 3.50:1 rear gear.