I wouldn't be concerned about the warm harness when the key is left on. I believe it's simply the pink resistor wire that runs between the switch and ignition coil. This circuit is not subject to a constant current draw as the coil is designed to be continuously turned on and off by the distributor points while the engine is running. Without the engine running, the coil remains on and the constant draw heats the pink resistor wire. To be sure, see if the harness cools down with a running engine.
Volt TestingI've changed my starter three times in the last two years, the ignition switch and ponytail, the voltage regulator twice and the starter solenoid twice. The battery is also new. The engine runs great for a month or longer and when I try to start it, the solenoid clicks as if the battery was dead. Could there be a problem in the harness?Ronnie SevinCanton, GA
When a Ford-style solenoid clicks only when starting the engine, the problem is usually traced to a lack of voltage reaching the solenoid, which can be caused by a weak or dead battery, as you mentioned, or a bad connection that creates some resistance to flow. Use a voltmeter to check the voltage of the battery to be certain it's at least 12.6 volts. Then check it again while a helper cranks the engine to determine cranking battery voltage. Connect the voltmeter to the battery ports, not the cables, in case the resistance is between the cables and posts. With the negative meter probe connected to the block, check for voltage with the positive probe at the battery-cable clamp end, battery-cable terminal end, and the solenoid terminal on both sides of the solenoid. In each test, the voltage reading should be within .5 volt of the battery while the engine is being cranked. Don't forget to also test the negative battery cable, as I frequently find battery cables with poor connections between the wire and terminal end.
Strutting Your StuffI'm in need of a pair of lower-control-arm strut rods. Both of mine are worn out (threads galled and a groove worn from a failed bushing on the other). I've had a difficult time locating a set. I've also been trying to find out if these parts are '67-specific or if similar pieces will work from a '68, and I'm getting conflicting answers from "expert" sources.
Will strut rods from a '68 work on my '67 big-block? Are these items reproduced? On every '67 I have located, they've been torched to get at other suspension parts or to ease disassembly. Do you know where I can get a set?Ron PeetersVia e-mail
New strut rods have not been available for a few years. However, many parts vendors can supply you with a set of reconditioned units. K.A.R. Auto Group lists all years of struts in its current catalog, which can be obtained at 800/341-5949 or www.karmustang.com.
You are correct, '67 strut rods are unique. However, '68-'73-style struts will bolt into your '67. The difference is in the steering stop area, as a '67 strut utilizes a separate plate to serve as a stop, similar to a '65-'66 unit. The '68 and newer struts incorporate the stop as part of the strut itself. Obviously, the '68-'73 strut is more readily available and cheaper to buy.
Temperature WarningI've run into a small but highly annoying problem with the restoration of my '71 SportsRoof, which was imported to the U.K. during its first year, then sold to the guy I bought it from some 22 years ago. I have since moved to New Zealand, but the ravages of salty English winter driving took their toll. The car is approaching the end of a six-year major restoration. Apart from some poor rust repairs and repaints, the car is virtually original and has never had anything replaced.