Some Mustangs don't respond to factory alignment settings, so refer to basic alignment fundamentals. Camber and toe settings will affect tire wear, whereas caster generally doesn't. The idea is to achieve zero toe and zero average camber while the vehicle is operating with some caster angle to provide stability. The angles can't be determined while the car is in motion, thus the static angles are rarely set at zero. The vehicle will pull to the side with the least amount of caster and the most amount of camber. With this in mind, your car can be adjusted to eliminate the pull.
Begin with 11/48- to 31/416-inch toe-in, 0- to 11/44-degree positive camber, and 31/44- to 1-degree positive caster, then drive the car. If it still pulls, add caster to that side until the pull goes away. A 11/432-inch shim will change caster approximately 11/42 degree. You can use up to 3 degrees caster in a power steering-equipped car, as positive caster will increase steering effort along with straight-ahead stability. Avoid camber changes to eliminate the pull because that will affect your tire wear.
Using this method, your Mustang will end up with different caster angles on each side of the car; some vehicles don't perform well with equal settings.
Going NutsI'm in the final reassembly stages of a 14-year restoration that I began when I was 13. I'm having trouble figuring out how to get the fender-to-cowl nuts to stay in place. I purchased new ones, but they spin when I try to bolt on the fender. Is there a trick?Rick NightingaleVia the Internet
The nut inserts will spin if they're not tight in the rocker panel. Be certain the rocker panel is flat so the nut fits flush and snaps into place. You'll notice the nut has two offset retaining tabs. This is so the long side of the nut can be inserted into the rocker, then slid back and upward to snap into place. A long bolt threaded into the nut can be used as a handle for installation.
Header ClearanceI have a lowered '66 Mustang convertible with a 289 and four-speed Top-Loader transmission. I have performed the Shelby 1-inch A-arm lowering and the car has lowering springs all around. Is there a clutch cable kit that will work in this application? If one isn't available, which headers will clear the Z-bar and still give me adequate ground clearance?CurtVia the Internet
I use Hooker Headers' Super Competition headers (PN 6111) on vintage race cars, which are lowered similar to your Mustang. Although relatively expensive, they're excellent quality. As with any header installation on an early Mustang, the equalizer bar will have to be bent slightly to clear the header tubes. The alteration is minor and can be done easily with an ordinary vise and handtools. A cable clutch conversion will also work, but the factory Z-bar is certainly serviceable.