Amp Gauge and Single-WireI'm writing in response to the April '07 article about installing a single-wire alternator ("How to Install a Single-Wire Alternator," p. 74). I want to install one on my '66 Mustang convertible, but would like to know if the amp gauge will still work. If not, what has to be done to make it functional?John SmithTownsend, DE
The amp gauge will still function with the single-wire alternator since its wiring remains intact.
Mustang amp gauges aren't as responsive as aftermarket gauges, rarely showing much fluctuation.The factory unit, referred to as a "shunt-style" gauge, doesn't pass all current flow. Some Mustang gauges are more sensitive than others. Any movement of the needle should be considered normal. Aftermarket gauges see all of the vehicle's current flow in the electrical system and are therefore more sensitive and accurate.
First-Time Start-UpI have been working on a '66 Mustang restomod for more than two years. I made the mistake of building the engine early on, and it has now been sitting for more than a year. I did all the proper assembly lube procedures, and the engine has been covered while stored indoors. It has never had oil, water, or gas in it, and it hasn't been turned over since assembly. I know I need to prime the oil pump with a shaft and a drill. What else should I do before starting it for the first time?Tim EmeryVia the Internet
Because the engine has been stored inside and covered, I don't think you need to worry about any damage from storage. Unfired, new engines can be stored for extended periods because corrosive by-products haven't been introduced inside the cylinders or within the oiling system.
The biggest issue is rust on the valve seats or on a cylinder wall with an open exhaust valve. Most engine builders back off on the valve adjusters so all the valves are closed to seal the cylinders from outside air. Some people believe this is done to preserve the valvesprings, but it's actually done to seal the cylinders. The procedure is a good idea for any engine, new or used, that will be stored for a long period of time.
I assume you sealed the exhaust ports with tape or paper. Look in them to see if you can spot an open valve and evidence of rust. If all checks out, prime the oil pump and fire it up.
Headers And Power SteeringI own two '68 Mustangs, a fastback and a convertible. I just installed long-tube headers on the convertible, and when I moved the car for the first time, I clipped the power steering return hose. I had previously installed the lowering bracket, but there are still clearance issues. Do you have any suggestions for dealing with this?Bryan TardifVia the Internet
There's no simple solution to the clearance issues caused by the installation of headers on a power steering-equipped Mustang. You'll have to find a way to reroute the hoses to clear any obstructions. The hoses are flexible, so don't be afraid to tie or clamp them out of the way.
Cycle the steering from one extreme to the other and observe the hoses to make sure they don't kink or stretch too tightly. Don't let the metal tubular ends of the hoses flex because they can fatigue and crack. You may have to eliminate the factory bracket that mounts to the frame to allow more travel for the hoses.
Your solution may not be pretty, but I'm sure you'll be able to figure something out.
Alignment WoesI have a '66 Mustang fastback and I'm battling wheel alignment; the car either pulls to the right or left. Local shops can't seem to get the car to drive in a straight line. Are there camber and toe-in settings that could sort out my alignment problems?Thorsten DannheimerVia the Internet
Are the suspension and steering linkage on your fastback worn? Any worn part will create an ill-handling vehicle. Pay particular attention to the front strut-rod bushings because loose bushings will play havoc with frontend alignment.