Acapulco BluesI'm in the process of restoring a '69 GT350 convertible that I've owned since 1991. Nearing the end of this arduous project, I'm now in a quandary about the paint. As you probably know, there seems to be three or four shades of Acapulco Blue paint, depending on the paint manufacturer. Here's what I know so far: The original paint was listed as Ford #3077-A, Acapulco Blue. This paint is also known as Bright Blue Metallic. There are others, like R-M No. A-1935, Ditzler No.13357, and Dupont No. 4857. I believe all these are acrylic enamel. I have samples painted on a panel, but they all are noticeably different shades! Then there is the basecoat/clearcoat dilemma. I like the way the base/clear comes out, and it sure would set this car off.
What shade of Acapulco Blue most closely matches the original Ford color on this car? What is your recommendation for acrylic enamel and a basecoat/clearcoat? I want this car as close to original color as possible, and, of course, the paint is an important item!Ron SmithHarrisburg, PA
I suggest you have a pint of Ditzler DDL-13357 Acapulco Blue mixed. Spray a test panel, and match the product you want to use to the formula. I recently purchased an original-paint '69 Mach 1 in Acapulco Blue. I used the DDL-13357 to spot the front valance, and the color was close enough I didn't have to tint it. The newer paints usually tend to vary a bit from the original factory mix code.
All In the DetailsI have a couple of detail questions about my '70 Pastel Blue Boss 429. What is the correct finish for the shifter rods and steering-column lockout rod? Also, what is the correct finish on the master cylinder, cylinder cover, heat tubes, and smog tubes?Kerry McMahonSpringfield, DE
The finish on the shifter rods should be Gold Cadmium. The correct color on the steering-column lock rod is clear (silver) Cadmium. The lock rod also has a paint ID code on the rod. The master cylinder should be semigloss black, with the inlets for brake lines natural around the opening area. A rubber plug was installed to keep paint out of the threads during the painting process. The master-cylinder cover was also painted semigloss black on the master cylinder as an assembly. The smog tubes on the Boss 429 were bare metal. The heat tubes on the back of the intake were usually bare metal or painted blue with the engine.
Because your intentions are thoroughbred MCA competition, you're striving to achieve detail. I'm sure your restoration will be outstanding!
Lip ServiceI'm in the process of restoring a '69 Mustang Mach 1, and I need some information about the fenders. My car seems to have a mismatch. I think one fender is from a Boss 429 Mustang because the lip on the wheel opening is narrower. What are the physical differences between Boss and Mach 1 fenders? Are there any codes stamped on the fenders that would identify them?Sal RubinoFraser, MI
The '69 Boss 429 fender has the same radius opening as the standard '69 Mustang fender, but the Boss 429 and Boss 302 fenders have the lip on the opening rolled under. The Boss 302 has a slight roll, while the Boss 429 is rolled tight with a 51/416 steel rod behind the lip to help make the roll tight. There is no code or part number in the fender to denote the application.