High-Riding RearI have started to restore my wife's '69 Mustang. The problem is the rear suspension. The rear of the car rides high and the ride is rough. What do I look for to make sure the car has the proper leaf springs? Also, can this problem be remedied without replacing the leaf springs?Brian MaduEdmonton, Alberta, Canada
The original spring from Ford has a part number stamped into it. However, it's usually located in an area that's hidden by the U-bolt retainer plate, so it's difficult to see. Mustang springs tend to wear out, so the springs on your wife's '69 have most likely been replaced over the years. Typically, most spring suppliers and repair shops manufacture and install springs that are stiffer than the ones they are replacing, creating an elevated ride height and a harsh ride. I believe this is your situation and can only be corrected with the installation of new leaf springs.
Be sure to obtain springs from a dedicated Mustang parts supplier that guarantees the replacement spring duplicates the original spring rate. Avoid any spring listed as heavy-duty or "special handling."
Winter FreezeHow can I get more out of a factory Mustang heating system? The Nov. '03 issue's heater-box-rebuild article only covered the basics. I've spent many a cold Midwestern winter day behind the wheel of an old, beaten-up, non-A/C '69 coupe. On the highway, the heat is always lukewarm. Before attempting a rebuild,I replaced the thermostat, flushed the heater core, and made sure the radiator was full; still, cold feet. When I opened the heater box, the core fins were clean. I replaced the blower, all the seals, and the core for good measure. The resulting improvement was nominal.
Two things do not help the situation: The window seals aren't extremely tight and the rear package tray and headliner were missing when I bought the car. I know this doesn't help, but there are no gaping holes in the firewall. The manually operated kick-panel vents are tight and the rest of the interior is intact with factory insulation and carpet, and the blower works at all speeds.
So what gives? Seems the system could use a few improvements, like a better blower, more water flow, or a cowl vent/cabin return air control. Constantly heating the freezing winter air at highway speed seems a large task for the factory system. Any suggestions?Kelly WhittenbergOverland Park, KS
The missing headliner and package tray create air leaks the stock heater may not be able to overcome. Because you mention highway speeds, I believe the cold air leaks are excessive, and the roof and trunk areas need to be sealed off. The rear quarter-panels and rocker panels have drain holes to prevent water buildup and are not meant to be airtight. The roof area blends into these areas and creates a large draft if not sealed off by the headliner. The roof was also insulated from the factory with a fiberglass mat under the headliner that feels like padding if you press on the headliner.
Seal off the trunk area with any type of material until a package tray can be located, and insulate the roof before installing a headliner. Although the preferred method of headliner installation involves removing the windshield and rear glass, an acceptable job can be done with spray adhesive and tucking the headliner under the glass weatherstrip.
Also, be certain the engine is up to temperature and does not cool down at highway speeds. Thermostats are known to be quite inaccurate and can vary considerably from one to another. Buy a good-quality, heavy-duty thermostat rated at 195 degrees and flush the new heater core to be certain any deposits from the old cooling system have been removed.